Hi Guys,

In April I replaced the radiator, hoses, water pump and Tstat. I used Mishimoto for the radiator and hoses (silicon). I am having trouble with the hoses leaking where they clamp to the radiator. I put 2 on the lower hose and that seemed to work. No other signs of leak on than drip from the top hose - factory clamp is on and tight as I can turn it - still lost a gallon in 2-3mo. Should I just get a new clamp? OEM stuff was not this prone to leaking - anyone else having these issues?

Thanks - Dan

 

Try getting everything cleaned up and dry, usually a can of brake clean will get it clean. Then have someone start it as you watch for seepage. You most likely over tightened the clamp and broke the radiator itself where the hose attaches.

 

Although, now that I look at the radiator online it looks like a full aluminum assembly including the ports, I have actually never looked at one. But who knows, maybe it's a hairline defect somewhere, you could only tell by watching closely as the system gets pressurized.

 

I doubt I broke anything - it is hard to get those worm drive clamps too tight with a screw driver. Plus their radiator is pretty stout. To me it felt like the silicon hose did not make a very tight fit with the radiator - you know it slipped on way to easy. If it is slightly big, you are asking a lot of a worm clamp. There is no leak until up to pressure - no drip in driveway - just some dry crustiness around the connection and directly below on the fan shroud.

 

I looked at those hoses when I got my Mishi radiator and I know you paid a premium. The reason to do that (besides they look cool ) is so you don't have a headache with leaks later. It simply shouldn't be doing that. I'd contact them directly and see how they respond. Is it possible there was a mix up and you got the wrong hose?

 

Good idea - I am going to check it again tonight after the fill-up and call them tomorrow.

 

Similar story for me regarding my new BPD radiator. Installed it and new OEM hoses (along with a new OEM fan clutch) and 3 days later could see a slight drip under the truck. Actually the wife noticed it first - she is more attentive to the vehicle fluids than I am! The leak was from the upper hose connection.

Problem turned out to be me though. I got in a hurry at the end of the job and I did not fully push the hose onto the radiator connection. The clamp was tight enough, but the hose just wasn't on there solidly/straight enough.

Hopefully it is something simple for you!

 

Exactly why stock components should be the default. Unless the OEM part is proven to be subpar, best not to risk aftermarket parts not fitting or functioning correctly, and no backed by the mfr. Or, if aftermarket part has strong track record of success, go for it.

With that said, my rad is a Mishi. Hoses Motorcraft. I do like all alum vs. plastic end tanks. Way back when, I had to fix my stock radiator degas hose nipple with a valve stem. Plastic did not give me that warm fuzzy.

Silicone is long lasting but slippery. Rubber lasts a long time too. The OEM hoses are tight. So tight, they are difficult to slip off when disconnecting hoses. I do not mind that problem since there are no leakage issues.

 

Maybe try a t-bolt clamp like what is on the inter cooler it is wider than the worm gear clamp.

 

So I tightened up the upper radiator hose (added a second clamp) and cleaned everything up. Guess what happened next???

Took her for a good drive today, and all the hoses were good -no leakage at all. From the hoses that is. The degas bottle was puking a bit - spatter around it. Now I am a little more than a bit worried.

I have a bulletproof EGR, deltas are excellent - new oil cooler 2 yrs ago. Studded 7 yrs ago with OEM gaskets, but thinking they probably are the problem. I recently lifted it 8" and put on 37" Toyo MTs on 22 by12 rims - I kept the SRL++ tuning from Matt on there - maybe that it too aggressive with the lift/tires?

 

Have you ever replaced the degas bottle cap? There are know to wear out! Cheap enough too. Maybe you should also test the pressure there also. That n ew water pump may be a little better than original.

 

I have replaced the degas cap, but it was a long time ago. A new one is on its way already. I'll test the pressure and the coolant next. I would be very happy if this was something little

 

Agreed on coolant temp & pressure check. Make sure degas bottle not overfilled too.

Park nose facing downhill overnight and pull EGR valve in morning. Moisture vs. dry soot points to EGR cooler rupture. Those exhaust gases in coolant would lead to puking. On my personal rig, I also have a BPD EGR cooler. They are rubust units, not failure-prone. Still worth checking as a long shot.

So, I am suspecting heads/gaskets as your most likely issue. What was the block prep like on your stud job years ago? And what heads went on (original, Ford reman, UCF reman)? How high are your max boost pressures?

 

Max boost is 28psi but with the tuning I am not sure that is actually true. It is what the Edge Insight reads out though - never goes higher. I only had 33K mi on it when the head gaskets were done - probably were blown when I bought it - previous owner towed a huge boat with a DiabloSport tuner on it. Anyway, Ford tech said the heads were perfectly flat - I asked if they needed to be sent out - he said they looked great - I don't know what he did but it has lasted a long time and he is very well respected around here. Coolant temps have been fine - 198 and steady, EOT 202-204. I figured I'd test the coolant for exhaust gas.

 

Not saying the tech 7 yrs ago did anything wrong with respect to Ford standards & procedures. However, 15+ years qualifies as a long time. 7 years is so-so bordering on unaccepable. I do not think most folks would want to pull their heads every 7 years.

A lot of folks go above-and-beyond ford spec with block and cylinder head fire deck flatness standards, and I agree with that. When I stone a block, I notice circular mill marks disappearing, making the surface even flatter than off the factory line. Some elbow grease, but well worth it.

The cylinder head design is marginal. I have a bigger beef with the heads than with the gaskets and head bolts. Much better is what UCF machine shop produces. Hardened valve seats, better valve guides, fixing the fuel to coolant risk. They o-ring too, and I'm not sure if that's necessary or overkill.

I would not put a head back on that did not have these deficiencies addressed. Diesels should not have integral valve seats. It is a cut corner. My original 2003 heads (w/ bolts, not studs) after 13 years were both perfectly flat. Checked them with 24" machinist straight edge and feeler gauges. They had cracks galore, to the point of not being rebuildable (i.e. beyond the micro-fissures that are deemed acceptable). The cracks were not visible until magnafluxed. Ford would have slapped them back on, not ever checking for these cracks.

Your heads may be off soon. Checking for flatness is not enough. You can do better than a 7-year run. I cannot vouch much for the UCF heads, as mine are relatively new. But, their reputation is strong if you research the matter. At least have the heads checked out, even if all looks okay to the naked eye.

Also, the superceded pushrods (shorter than original) will reduce strain on your lifters. If heads have to come off, this is your opportunity to install pushrods.