Timing Advice
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Hmm, I feel like I'm robbing myself of power by sticking with this thing. I have a fresh stock replacement distributor but I'm not sure if it'll play well with the ignition box attached to the current distributor (6AL 6425). I guess I've got some reading to do. Just in time for cold weather too 
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
If you want to keep it, put it in an old Mustache with a slightly built 289 and make a stop light tire smokin' go faster out of it...hehe.
Be aware that the DSII requires an ICM, coil and ballast resistor wire between the ignition switch and coil.....
Wish you the best in whatever you decide. Keep us informed?
Be aware that the DSII requires an ICM, coil and ballast resistor wire between the ignition switch and coil.....
Wish you the best in whatever you decide. Keep us informed?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 65
From: Eastern, Idaho
Distributors without vacuum advance are made for wide open throttle applications. You can make it work it will just be finicky in part throttle operation. Vacuum advance give more advance when vacuum is high. And helps with cruising and general driving.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 49
From: Great American SouthWest
And it's the wrong color to boot!
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,846
Likes: 2,615
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Years ago I marked my HB all the way to 40 degrees BTDC. I also installed a quick advance spring kit. Way I set timing on my 351M is unplug vacuum and plug hose, loosen clamp, start truck, shine timing light on HB and pointer and adjust so it's 35 degrees BTDC at like 2,000 rpm or more .... at an rpm where the centrifugal advance is all "in". That's the same place it'll be at under WOT once rpm is fast enough to fully swing the weights out and vacuum is low because WOT.
Then I reconnect the ported vacuum and test drive.
I have checked vacuum advance with rpm, just elevated in neutral ..... and I know it's up in mid 40s anyway, maybe more .... but tipping the throttle drops it as vacuum drops. I get no spark knock.
Once I added that spring kit those many years ago I found I no longer could use initial timing per OEM specs.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
I went out tonight and set my carb back to spec per the manual (it was used when I bought it) and set my initial timing at 20*. I also installed the medium springs. While tightening down the distributor, the bolt stopped tightening. The threads are stripped out...unbelievable. It looks as if there is maybe a 1/4" depth to the hole so I'm not sure how many teeth of the tap will even catch if I drill it out now 
I got it just tight enough so that I could hear how the engine ran and confirm the 20* without the distributor moving but as soon as it gets hot (and this motor gets hot), I have run-on.
Anyone live near Toledo and want to make a few dollars tuning this thing?
After almost 8 years, I'm tired of the lack of progress.
I got it just tight enough so that I could hear how the engine ran and confirm the 20* without the distributor moving but as soon as it gets hot (and this motor gets hot), I have run-on.
Anyone live near Toledo and want to make a few dollars tuning this thing?
After almost 8 years, I'm tired of the lack of progress.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Stripped threads....Oh, man! Now that takes the rag offin' the bush!
Run on, or "dieseling" is caused by hot spots of carbon (unburned fuel) in the combustion chamber or on the plugs after the engine is shut down. The momentum of the engine's internals after shut down will draw a certain amount of air/fuel back into the chamber....the "hot spots" would then ignite the fuel..... = dieseling.
What are your thoughts on going back to the DSII....or and HEI? Might get you feeling better about some progress?
Run on, or "dieseling" is caused by hot spots of carbon (unburned fuel) in the combustion chamber or on the plugs after the engine is shut down. The momentum of the engine's internals after shut down will draw a certain amount of air/fuel back into the chamber....the "hot spots" would then ignite the fuel..... = dieseling.
What are your thoughts on going back to the DSII....or and HEI? Might get you feeling better about some progress?
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
I pulled a plug and the tip was a little wet so there's the confirmation; now to figure out why.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Yessuh, the wiring changes bite...I noticed the new wiring in the picture you posted.
Not to push the HEI, as I have no dog in that fight, wouldn't it be easier to spend the dollars on an HEI rather than expend all your time/energy on back to stock wiring?
You already have the wiring set up for it.....I suppose it's a question of time vs money.....just throwin' it out there.....
Wet/gas fouled plugs: Timing, too much fuel (carb internals/settings), not enough or not a healthy spark, too cold a plug heat range, old plugs or gap too big, blown power valve, etc. I'm sure you know all that.
Strike the power valve thing.....you have a Carter carb....too much fuel pressure could be a consideration for gas fouled plugs.
Not to push the HEI, as I have no dog in that fight, wouldn't it be easier to spend the dollars on an HEI rather than expend all your time/energy on back to stock wiring?
You already have the wiring set up for it.....I suppose it's a question of time vs money.....just throwin' it out there.....
Wet/gas fouled plugs: Timing, too much fuel (carb internals/settings), not enough or not a healthy spark, too cold a plug heat range, old plugs or gap too big, blown power valve, etc. I'm sure you know all that.
Strike the power valve thing.....you have a Carter carb....too much fuel pressure could be a consideration for gas fouled plugs.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
I think you've got me sold on the HEI setup. It seems the most logical and best setup.
I was out this morning to drill/tap a new hole for the distributor retainer and that is back to new. Any tips/secrets to getting the oil pump shaft out?
One other thing I wanted to mention is that I'm running Denso T16PR-U11 plugs gapped at about .040". Sound ok?
I was out this morning to drill/tap a new hole for the distributor retainer and that is back to new. Any tips/secrets to getting the oil pump shaft out?
One other thing I wanted to mention is that I'm running Denso T16PR-U11 plugs gapped at about .040". Sound ok?
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 49
From: Great American SouthWest
I think you've got me sold on the HEI setup. It seems the most logical and best setup.
I was out this morning to drill/tap a new hole for the distributor retainer and that is back to new. Any tips/secrets to getting the oil pump shaft out?
One other thing I wanted to mention is that I'm running Denso T16PR-U11 plugs gapped at about .040". Sound ok?
I was out this morning to drill/tap a new hole for the distributor retainer and that is back to new. Any tips/secrets to getting the oil pump shaft out?
One other thing I wanted to mention is that I'm running Denso T16PR-U11 plugs gapped at about .040". Sound ok?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 79
From: A dirty little town in OR
As I read every post in this thread my thought was "HEI. HEI. HEI". If the wiring wasn't already set up for it (the main hangup on most new HEI installs), I'd say go back to stock.
I've bought a couple of the sub-$100 units off of eBay and was pretty impressed. Solid build quality with a few corner-cutting, but easily upgradable, cheap Chinese parts...your local NAPA (or Chevy buddy) will have the good stuff and you'll still be into for half the price of a Davis. I also recommend driving out the roll pin and perma-lubing the shaft w some good synthetic grease.
BTW, it does help if you've got a GM-friendly bud to help you along w your first one. When I bought my first one for an old small block Charger, my GM buddy not only helped me with knowledge, all the "upgrade" parts were already in his spare parts box. Yeah...that worked out well.
I've bought a couple of the sub-$100 units off of eBay and was pretty impressed. Solid build quality with a few corner-cutting, but easily upgradable, cheap Chinese parts...your local NAPA (or Chevy buddy) will have the good stuff and you'll still be into for half the price of a Davis. I also recommend driving out the roll pin and perma-lubing the shaft w some good synthetic grease.
BTW, it does help if you've got a GM-friendly bud to help you along w your first one. When I bought my first one for an old small block Charger, my GM buddy not only helped me with knowledge, all the "upgrade" parts were already in his spare parts box. Yeah...that worked out well.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
PBYuma is correct about the clip on the oil pump shaft....it's there to prevent the shaft from partially coming out with the distributor only to fall back into La-La land.
Why do you want to replace it, if I may ask?
HEI sounds like the hot setup for you...agree with Jonnyuma on that.
Plugs like to be gapped at 0.044." You can go larger on the gap with an HEI but I wouldn't....for the time being.
Why do you want to replace it, if I may ask?
HEI sounds like the hot setup for you...agree with Jonnyuma on that.
Plugs like to be gapped at 0.044." You can go larger on the gap with an HEI but I wouldn't....for the time being.