The prop valve may have shifted and sealed off the front system. That is part of it's function, to prevent total brake failure if a brake line ruptures. Or one side of the reservoir goes dry.

 

Thanks for the replys first thing. Second, I was under the truck looking at the prop valve. The pin to pull out, as you look at the prop-valve, is the pin on the end of it closest to the front of the truck? It appears to have some sort of pin on top as well between two of the brake lines. The pin on the end looks like the one in the manual, but won't budge. I figure fix the dripping drivers side caliper, try some extended bleeding and be patient like you suggested, and pull the pin last if needed. Now the storm is here so guess it'll have to wait. Thanks for the heads up, I knew to keep the reseviour full, not to run empty while bleeding, but I should have know better to double check my connections on the calipers. Thats where the drivers is dripping from. Rookie. Thanks again, Blair

 

if you are not getting fluid to the front check the rubber hoses to each caliper. they can go bad and plug up. if you do decide to open the valve it has to be held open during the bleed. pull it out and gently lock it in the out position with vise grips.

Upper Case Edited Out by FTE

 

Needing some more pointers. After the storm passed yesterday, I started in on my brakes again. Previous post I said my new caliper(s) had a drip. I put in the brass washer (DUH) and quickly cured that issue. Now, my honey pumped up the pedal, and then we went to the push and hold sequence. We must have gone a solid 1/2 hour each side and getting no fluid thru the lines. I had her pump it once while I watched the master cyl, and the fluid jumps from the small side to the larger rear side. So I'm trouble shooting this out now and have reached this conclusion. CONCLUSION: Dripping drivers caliper drained the rear bowl on the master cylinder. I fixed the drip, refilled, now have massive air issue in lines. The prop-valve is hung someway from the master going dry and needs to be pulled out. I think the valve is stuck solid (RUST) to add to my misery here. Sound like a proper prognossis? Should I be pulling the prop-valve out or pushing in? I was thinking pull out due to weight of truck according to the manuel. I'm guessing if I had installed the new caliper correctly using the brass washer, thus preventing the drip-dry master, I could have avoided pulling out the pin on the valve. Gonna try again tomorrow. Later, BLT

 

The instructions say pull it out to bleed the front > then push in after bleeding.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...25252Bbleeding

 

i think you can let gravity do it's job also, crack the line loose and watch for the fluid to start to drip, then tighten and bleed the brake's

 

I have had them cracked open for a day now. Going to try and pull the pin see if Ican get flow to the front. Maybe pull the lines loose and see if blocked. LAter, BLT

 

try pushing in on the plunger on the p-valve it worksw on my 77
the front dics brakes on your truck should gravity bleed as their is no check valve at your master cyl fiil your master cyl with fluid open the bleeder screws, put your helper in the cab lay under the truck pushin on the pin coming out of your p-valve have your partner depress the brake slowly a few times fluid should start coming out of the bleeders let it drip a few minutes close the bleeders and try to bleed as normal you may have to hold the pin in to get it to flow all the time I use a small C-clamp for this if the brake warning light is on after you get the brakes bled loosen the lines at the at the master just enough to let a little fluid out have your helper depress the brake pedal slowly do the rear brakes first (line coming out of the small resivoir) the second the light goes out tighten the line if the light stays on do the same with fronts good luck

 

Thanks for the tips. Here is were I'm at. I was getting very little fluid doing gravity. I started pulling lines at RF caliper heading in. Virtually dry. Got to the tee, pulled line to LF and it was about dry. Unbolted the "front out" line from the P-valve, wee bit wet.
Unbolted "front-in" line to P-valve, fluid came gushing. Before all this I tried to vaccum-bleed the system, both front sides, got Jack Squat for flow. I figure P-vale is rusted, or blocked, or both front lines became horribly contaminated. I have a new P-valve on order, will get it in a week. Plan on installing new lines until then. Will keep you posted if this does it. Later, Blair

 

has it sat for a long time? do the lines look ok? try to blow the lines out seperately with air also to clear any buildup of material, might save some money or find a different problem. just a thought

 

All the times I've messed with my brakes on the myriad of occasions, from replacing entire systems or going piece by piece. If you are replacing the proportioning valve, make sure you fill the valve itself first before putting it in the truck. Doesn't need to be overflowing full, just get some fluid in there and work out the air. I've had that damn little needle stick because of that air and it's hell to get going properly afterwards, for some reason air doesn't like to pass through a new valve. As far as holding it out, forget about it. Never,,, Ever,,, had an issue with that. Bleeding is simple enough, whether the "buddy" technique or single-man bottle/hose. I use both consistently without hassle, people permitting. Of all the things to go wrong on my trucks, I was always glad when it was the brakes,, cake work.

 

Many thanks for the replys. I plan on blowing the lines some tomorrow I hope. I was thinking maybe junk got in there when putting on new calipers. Being the brute that I am, I broke the center front line when pulling it loose to see if I had flow. That is now on order too. I figure something is clogged or the p-valve went and got stuck just due to the fact of almost no flow at all in the front. On my p-valve, I can't even move the pin, have soaked it many times with PB and such. Oh well, thanks for the heads-up on the fluid in valve first, will install everything hopefully this weekend. Valve is thru dealer and will take a few days. Later, Blair

 

Well still at it. And I thought it would be so simple. I got my new p-valve, and I'll be danged, the pin on the valve actually MOVES like some said it should. Well in my zest to get her rolling again I have buggered her up a little. I bench bled the master, mounted the p-valve and started to run my lines. The lines looked really aweful (except the new front center one that I had to replace cause' I broke old one), and while putting them into place, managed to pinch not only one on the front against the frame and dissengrate it, but bent and broke the brittle as hell rear line from the p-valve headed to the rear tee. Got new lines. Cheaper to get the ones that I can bend. PROBLEM: The rear "center" line, from rear of p-valve to a "female" coupling, is the troublesome one. I have the right size line, comes with fittings. The hole in the p-valve is huge, like a 1/2". The line is a 3/16". I need one little brass bushing or reducer, but have not found the right kind after much looking. I can bolt up everything tomorrow, but I need that adapter. Is there a certain place to find fittings? I been to Lowe's, Ace, Tractor Supply, anywhere that would have some pressure fittings, but size is issue. I might go to dealer and special order that dumb line, but was hoping for a simpler soultion. Anybody know what I'm describing, and have an idea??? Thanks for your help and time, later, Blair

 

yes that is a very common adapter, a GOOD parts store like NAPA will have, it is like9/16-18 thread size, i used to sell parts about 15 years ago and we had those, edelmann sells those in there brass cabinet rack, i could be wrong on the exact size but a major part's store will carry it, take the old p-valve with you or your old fitting to let them compare the size to

p.s. lowes, tractor supply, menards or home depot type stores would have no purpose to carry an adapter like that

 

THanks for the heads up. We have a Napa, gonna give it a try. LAter, Blair