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Looks like a Dana 60.
There should be 2 sets of numbers stamped into the axle tube and at these other locations, you may need to use something like Brakleen and a nylon brush to clean it enough to read them.
More than likely it is a dana 60 Full-Float. Most of the 1ton passenger vans came with that up until 2001 then they started puttin semi-floats in the 1 tons randomly for some reason. You can also look up the axle code printed on the sticker located in the drivers side door jam --> Identify Your Ford Truck Axle From The Door Sticker
Hmmm. Maybe I have an odd beast. No tags under the bolts, no part numbers on the axle tubes. It's smooooth.
My axle code is 33.
I'm not finding a code 33 as such on my web ssearches, but I did find this thread on another forum that suggests I have "3 a 1-ton open", but then says, "There are MANY exceptions."
Well, that's helpful!
For the second digit, it's even more ambiguous. "3 = 3.54 (late), 3.73 (early), 4.10, 4.11 ".
I don't suppose that matters much, though, as far as the seals are concerned.
When I search for axle seals on the NAPA site, it offers me two choices:
Part # :NOS 17100 which is for a semi-floating rear axle
Part # :NOS 28754 which is for a full-floating rear axle
I don't know what semi-floating vs. full-floating means. Is there a way to tell which I have based on the info I've posted?
Sorry, I thought I mentioned that, but I see that I did not.
Axle seals, single wheel. I have one leaking onto my brake shoes. I might as well do them both while I'm buying seals. It's only got 216k on it, and they've never been touched.
Diff cover is leaking too, so I'll get that done at the same time.
Sorry, I thought I mentioned that, but I see that I did not.
Axle seals, single wheel. I have one leaking onto my brake shoes. I might as well do them both while I'm buying seals. It's only got 216k on it, and they've never been touched.
Diff cover is leaking too, so I'll get that done at the same time.
F7UZ-1175-A .. Rear Axle Grease Seal (Chicago Rawhide part number: 47507)/ Available from Ford & auto parts stores.
I'd go with Mobil 1, 75W90, Synthetic, and check your axle vent hose while you're at it. It's just a 16" rubber hose venting from driver's side axle shaft. If that's clogged, your fluid can't expand properly. If it's broken off or cracked, water can get in. You'll need some high heat Permatex too, and housing cover bolt torque is 35 ft.lbs. Let the silicone dry for at least one hour before filling housing. I usually let it cure 4 hours or overnight though. Cheers!
Had to back-burner this while I dealt with a water pump and other such woes, so now back to this. Because of the time burned with a water pump replacement that went wrong in every possible way (broken bolts, etc.) I'm considering letting the shop do this. I'm just short on time.
But they want $725 for the job! That's both seals, but still, seems pretty steep.
How big a job is this? Do I need any special tools other than a standard hook-type seal puller, and a press to put it back in? (Got both.)
If I'm going to spend that money, maybe I should get a junkyard axle from a later van that has disc brakes. Would that also get me into a limited slip diff?
But they want $725 for the job! That's both seals, but still, seems pretty steep.
How big a job is this? Do I need any special tools other than a standard hook-type seal puller, and a press to put it back in? (Got both.)
If I'm going to spend that money, maybe I should get a junkyard axle from a later van that has disc brakes. Would that also get me into a limited slip diff?
What years will work? Up to 2002?
If you have ever changed front wheel bearings & seals on any 2wd truck, van or older rwd car it's basically similar just much larger and a few additional steps. The seals are in the hubs not the diff housing. The only special tool you will need is the socket for the spindle/hub nut. You have to remove the small bolts are the center of the rear hubs, then pull the axles out. Once the axles are out you can get to the spindle/hub nuts.
Here's an article on another site that shows what's involved. But that is a Sterling rear diff not the Dana 60.
Here's a youtube video that shows the D60. It's not a step by step video but gives you an idea of what's involved. He had to deal with repair sleeves( wear rings ) . You shouldn't need to deal with that unless your spindles are messed up.
If you are concerned about being able to replace the rear axle seals. Do not even consider trying to do the disc brake rear diff swap! There is a lot more involved then just swapping the rear diffs. you'll be a lot better off just replacing your seals.
Thanks for that video. I had been looking for one and couldn't find any. That job does not look like a $725 job to me! Other than buying one special tool, it looks pretty straightforward.
Oh, I wasn't going to swap the brakes and the diff. I was thinking about the entire axle assembly as one piece. Looks pretty easy, really. 4 bolts on each side, the shocks, and the brake lines. Is there something I'm missing about that?
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on it, and they've never been touched. 
