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My 1952 - 5/Star

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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 02:55 PM
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My 1952 - 5/Star

my light switch works in reverse....when it's in, the headlights come on, when it's out, they go off. in the middle, the parking lights come on.

any suggestions?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 03:16 PM
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More info of your truck would be helpful. Orig. wiring? 6v + ground? OEM light switch? How are your driving lights wired and controlled?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 03:22 PM
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Nice looking truck. Welcome. It sounds like maybe you just need to switch the wires feeding the switch, but someone who knows will be along soon. You have come to the right place for answers and support for your Ford truck project. What can you tell us about your truck? We always enjoy pictures.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 05:20 PM
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thanks for the reply...a little history:

i purchased the truck from a childhood friend. the truck belonged to his grand dad. his grand dad purchased the truck in 1958 (the year i was born) from his best friend, who bought the truck new in the west texas town of san angelo. it was a daily driver from 1958 until 1999 when his grand dad passed away. it was parked under a shed in west texas in 1999 and was there until this past sept when i bought it (71212 original miles). had it flat bedded two hundred miles south to san antonio where i live.

cleaned out the fuel tank, fuel line and stuck a new battery in her and she fired right up! 239 V8 flathead with 3 on the tree. i've gone through most of the major stuff...replaced water pumps and thermostats along with changing the hoses. also had the radiator cleaned out and it pressured in the good range. also took the heater apart and put back together and reinstalled...it too is working again. will be going through the brakes next.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 08:03 PM
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Welcome. Good looking truck - and a better story.

On the switch: I would start with the basics. Check the wiring against the stock diagram. Sounds like something is reversed to me.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 08:08 PM
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i took the generator off and put it back on after i replace the water pumps. i reconnected all the wiring exactly like i took it off. when i got the motor running is when i noticed the light situation. i never touched the light pull switch.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 08:08 PM
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Welcome! This may help you if you have a stock switch


 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 08:26 PM
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i did rewrap all the broken ends on the wires and cleaned the contacts...'one at a time' as not to get any out of order.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2016 | 12:46 AM
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Welcome! My 51' was originally purchased by my great-grandfather and has been passed down to me. After getting it towed to my hous in January, we've hit a stall. Too much life in the way right now to get it running, a senior in high school, a first grader, and a two-year old keep us busy, but every time I hear about a nice truck up and running I get inspired. Maybe we'll se you cruising around San Antonio sometime!

Scott
 
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Old Oct 28, 2016 | 02:01 AM
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Couple of observations:
Looks like you have some crispy original wiring. Have you looked under the dash or removed the light switch? With all the lines feeding the switch, poorly insulated wires can do odd things.
The battery cable to the solenoid looks undersized for a six volt system. What is the voltage rating for the battery?
If you haven't already done so, pick up a 49-52 Shop Manual. This is very helpful for those of us who aren't mechanics by trade.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2016 | 09:09 AM
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thanks fortyniner...it's an 8 volt battery. i was explained by an old hand at these trucks that the 8 volt would have a better starting capabilities. like i mentioned, the lights were working fine until i taped up the wires.

if i take speaker wire and connect one end to the positive of the battery, and then make contact with the other end of the wire to each one of the contacts individually on the diagram, will i be able to see if those areas are getting juice?
 
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Old Oct 28, 2016 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by hatranch
thanks fortyniner...it's an 8 volt battery. i was explained by an old hand at these trucks that the 8 volt would have a better starting capabilities. like i mentioned, the lights were working fine until i taped up the wires.

if i take speaker wire and connect one end to the positive of the battery, and then make contact with the other end of the wire to each one of the contacts individually on the diagram, will i be able to see if those areas are getting juice?
Unless your truck was changed you should put the wire on the negative terminal to get power to a light.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2016 | 12:10 PM
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Abe is right. Originally our trucks were positive ground instead of negative ground. But many have been changed. Your switch should still work. I would check the switch connections per Ross's diagram. I'm wondering if someone hooked the headlights to the IP dimmer. What happens if you turn the switch as if to dim the IP lights?

 
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Old Oct 30, 2016 | 06:18 PM
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That's what I was thinking about as a grounding problem, less resistance. that was why I ask about current information on the truck... Hope you can find the problem soon
 
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Old Oct 30, 2016 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by petemcl
Abe is right. Originally our trucks were positive ground instead of negative ground. But many have been changed. Your switch should still work. I would check the switch connections per Ross's diagram. I'm wondering if someone hooked the headlights to the IP dimmer. What happens if you turn the switch as if to dim the IP lights?

they dim as they should...when right all the way, the ip lights come on full bright, all the way to the left , they cut off.
 
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