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Break In Period

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Old Oct 23, 2016 | 11:44 PM
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Break In Period

Ok everyone this is one topic that is always an interesting read. There are a lot of people that believe you should baby your truck for the first 1,000 miles during break in. Myself I have always been in the opposite train of thought where you should drive the truck with deliberate upshifting and downshifting during the first 200 miles especially to properly seat the rings. I especially did this with all my motorcycles and they have ALL ran very strong.

Now I am not talking about beating on the motor or excessively high rpms or anything just up and down the rev ranges in the first 3 or 4 gears.

This brings up the question of is it necessary now with the way motors are built? Do the rings seat better this day and age without the deliberate revs? In the past putting your truck on cruise control and steady acceleration during break in was leading to a lot of blow-by on the rings.

What do you guys think?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 05:12 AM
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I don't think it matters Rob. Look at all the new vehicles that make their way into a rental fleet and are abused from day one. When the engine in my '88 was rebuilt, the tech told me to break it in the way I intended to drive it.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 06:10 AM
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Rob,


I agree with you on not babying the motor during break-in. With my last truck I was told to drive it like normal but don't run over rev and don't run constant freeway speeds. When I bought my motorcycle the mechanic told me to drive-it-like-I-stole-it, according to him you need to accelerate and decal hard enough to develop enough compression to seat the rings properly. Additionally, he warned not to run any synthetic oil for the first couple of oil changes, supposedly the Synthetics reduce friction to the point of not allowing the rings to seat properly. He did recommend I change the oil and filter after the first 250 miles just to make sure that there isn't any slag/grit floating around.


I have wondered if the 1000 mile moratorium on towing was more designed to allow the trans/drivetrain/brakes to seat than it was for the engine.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 06:11 AM
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Yup same thing i have always lived by. Break it in like it will be driven, with one exception. I do follow the Ford suggestion of not towing for the first 1000 miles. Below is the excerpt from the manual. This break in shares the same break in procedures from other manufacturers and vehicles types (even my harley said the same thing about not maintaining a constant RPM for too long. It is better for ring seating or so i have read and been told.)

In short:
1) no bogging down
2) no over revving
3) no towing for 1000 miles

other than that have at it


BREAKING-IN
You need to break in new tires for approximately 300 mi (480 km). During this time, your vehicle may exhibit some unusual driving characteristics.
Avoid driving too fast during the first 1,000 mi (1,600 km). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine.
Drive your new vehicle at least 1,000 mi (1,600 km) before towing a trailer. Make sure you use the specified engine oil. See Capacities and Specifications (page 418).
Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils during the first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation. These additives may prevent piston ring seating.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 06:21 AM
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Current design, engineering, and manufacturing can be as perfect as is physically possible if they want it to be. Machining tolerances are way beyond being dependent on how the particular employee felt that day.

The million dollar question - where is the balance, exactly where is the margin between the cost of precision and protecting their profitability? There is a point where somebody decided "if we make it better it will cost too much so let's keep it here for now".

Personally, I don't give break in much thought. As noted before, if I do show concern towards the transmission and differentials and brakes, it's to make sure I put a good load on them but also let them cool off. I think it's just a matter of measured heat cycles on everything.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 08:10 AM
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Two points:

1) When I bought my 2014 Subaru, I flew to CO to pick it up and drove it back home to OK. Owners manual said all the same things stated above. Not in a hurry, I decided to take all back roads and I would accelerate up to speed and then let it coast down to a reasonable speed, sometimes in gear and sometimes with the clutch in. Fast forward 2+ years...guess there is some oil consumption issues with the engine and Subaru gave everyone an extended warranty. Have not experienced any oil consumption in my car. Did my break in method play a part???? Who knows??

2) Replaced all 4 rotors and pads on my 2004 F150 4x4 this summer. Used Powerstop Extreme towing system. There were VERY SPECIFIC instruction on how to break in and seat the pads/rotors. I followed exactly and they perform great...point is, curious as to why there is no brake system break-in on new vehicles?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 08:29 AM
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How is a guy that uses his truck for commercial use supposed to wait 1000 miles before towing? It's not going to happen.
Personally I try to put 2-300 on mine before towing.

Since the engine does not come with break in oil it must be broken in when it was built. I understand that we are actually breaking in the rear diff with the "take it easy" break in period
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 08:49 AM
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The first 1000 miles I never fully accelerate and I drive the truck the way I would normally drive after that.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 10:26 AM
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Old school here. Drive it lightly most of the time for 1000 miles. Run the RPM's up occasionally, vary the speed, don't floor it. Don't load it up and it should be good to go. I like the first oil change at 3000 miles and the differential oil changed at 10,000 miles even though I am told the modern machining process takes off all the excess metal on the gears. Still seems like good sense to remove any possible abrasive which shouldn't be there. Front differential will never get enough use to really break in but 75K miles is a good time to change. Transmission I follow the manual for change. There is too much of a risk of contamination to change it out early and too involved a process to do a complete job in the home shop. One speck of contaminate can wreck the whole Rube Goldberg gearchanger. Good filters and quality oil on a regular basis (Rotella T-6 every 10,000 miles on the nose) and barring catastrophic failure hundreds of thousands of miles ahead.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 12:34 PM
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I am also old school, but life happens so I did not tow much the first 1000 miles but I did tow about 75 miles. I also changed the oil to full synthetic at 1000 miles...old habits are hard to brake and I have had no mechanical problems with any truck I have done this with...
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 01:53 PM
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There are quite a few cars that come from the factory with synthetic from day one. Mercedes and Corvette are just two of them.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 69cj
There are quite a few cars that come from the factory with synthetic from day one. Mercedes and Corvette are just two of them.
That is true. My Polaris Ranger also is 100% synthetic lubricants. And they still required an oil change at 25 hours to make sure the oil could continue to do its best cleaning and lubricating.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 06:37 PM
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what do you guys suggest for this scenario?
the dealer I am getting my truck from is 500 miles from me (through the family)
what should I do for the drive home?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 07:02 PM
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The motor is broken in when it leaves KTP. The 1000 miles before towing is for gearset break in. I drive all my vehicles the same on day one as the day I trade them in. And, while I realize it's fun to analyze break in methods, there's really nothing you can do either way to affect a modern production engine. And since it's all opinion, this is one of my favorite opinions:

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 07:51 PM
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When I was young I winced at my older brother (slightly older than me), he drove any new vehicle he bought like a madman. This was in a rural area long before any interstates or straight stretches of road. Seems that his car was faster than any like vehicle he competed against. And instructions for replacement piston rings advocated accelerating from a low speed in high gear numerous times to higher and higher speeds.
It was stated earlier that engines are broken in at the factory, by what method? The only way I know is on a dyno, I doubt a dyno is employed.
 
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