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On my 76 300ci 4x4/man trans about half the time when I go to start it the starter motor spins but doesn't quite engage the flywheel. Sometimes it engages after a bit of a grind. The people I bought it from had the starter and ring gear replaced shortly before I bought it (I assume for this same problem) so thats not the problem. I thought that it may have been a bad/sort of loose battery cable connection since it would do it most right before the starter would quit working all together (it would just click) which used to be solve by wiggling the cable end. On that idea I replaced the pos+ cable (the troubled one) and cleaned the connection on the neg- cable. But that didn't fix it as I had hoped. It does always start when it does this but usually takes a few trys on the key to get it to engage.
So can anyone tell me what else I can try, or where to look to solve this problem?
the starter is screwed, we just had this problem with a 89 sable, "sometimes" it would start the car, other times it would sit and grind the flexplate, we fought with ford on that, (for remanned starter) and finally took it into the shop and yes, they diagnossed it as the starter
On the top of starter, there is a cover, inside it... there is a cooper contact, it is wrong calibrated. the contact should open just after gear is almost full moved to from of starter.
I'm guessing starter gear is in good condition, isn't it?
Javi I hadn't thought about the gear until you mentioned it since its not making the grinding noise that goes w/ a drive gear/riing gear problem. However you go me to thinking and I pulled it off just to check and yes the gear is ok. I'm assuming to remove the top cover all I need to do is loosen the steel band clamp around the end of the starter and it should slide right off, correct? Then what do I need to do to adjust the cooper contact underneath?
Last edited by TruckDrivinFool; Aug 24, 2003 at 08:58 PM.
there are two different starters for automatics or standards and one is shorter and wouldn't engage the ring gear properly. If it is engaging then your bendix is at fault and is slipping replace it and your one problem is solved. When you get no click try replacing your solenoid, it's on your pass side fender by the battery and is probably at fault. good luck
Well you have check the contact surface first, to know if there is no too much wear. You can bend the upper contac down to starter, until it just open about 2mm when bendix is full ahead.
Daer: the starter motor always spins it just doesn't engage the flywheel. Do you know how much difference there is between the auto and manual trans starters? Enough to see by eye or is it a measure and compare?
Javi: I'll check that out but I may just go and get a new starter and see what happens since I'm not so sure I believe that its as new a starter as the guy I bought it from said it was.
Last edited by TruckDrivinFool; Aug 26, 2003 at 06:34 PM.
I believe if memory serves me correct that the nose on the manual starter is longer(could be wrong) . As I said before if the starter spins but wont engage or engages but wont turn the motor probably the bendix is shot and thats only a 6-9$ item and is easily replaced.
The starters are the same length I believe. The difference is the nose cone. The automatic starter has the mounting flange right at the back of the nose cone and the cone tapers to the front. The full length of the nose cone is inside the bellhousing when installed.
The manual starter, the mounting flange is about the middle of the nose cone and the taper to the front starts there, so that when installed, only about half the length of the nose cone is inside the bellhousing.
With either starter, the bendix should pull the gear all the way forward possible. If the bendix is faulty, the gear may stop travel as much as 1" from the front of the nose cone (and thus not engage your flywheel/ring gear)