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I got all the main bearings changed last weekend, and was working on the rear main seal. Bottom was easy enough, as it lives in the cap, but the top is a problem
I tried driving it out, pulling it out, and putting a screw in it (to pull the screw) but nothing has worked. In fact, part of the screw is still in the seal-can't get it out
It had been suggested that I sepatate the engine from the transmission, and allow the crank to drop a bit. I did, in fact manage to unbolt the torque converter, but I still couldnt get the upper rear main seal out
Since the engine was basically out (being mostly disconnected) I decided to just go ahead and pull the engine out. The three weeks of laying on the driveway, oil dripping in my face, has just not paid off! So I ran down to Harbor Freight and bought the biggest engine hoist and stand that they had in stock
I returned home and assembled the hoist and stand-no problems! I had some good advice in another thread that said to leave everything loose until completely assembled. Once it was all together, than tighten everything down. That was a good tip!
I thought the chain I lock up the propane tank with would be sufficient, but it was too small. So I went to Lowe's and bought chain, bolts and washers to connect the chain, and big ol grade 8 bolts to bolt the engine to the stand
Upon my return, I bolted up the chain and gave the motor a lift. Too tall to clear the hood. Drop the motor, remove the carburetor, raise the hook in the hoist and try again. Still, motor won't clear the radiator support due to the hood. Now I'm starting to understand why guys just remove the front clip!
Unbolt the hood hinges, get the kids to help me carry the hood, and return to the hoist. Lift the engine a little more, and it's out!
Somebody mentioned that the big hoist and big stand don't play nice together. That's true. I ended up bolting the mounting plate to the engine, hanging the stand on the plate, then dropping the assembly, while using a 2x4 to cam the leg of the stand over the leg of the hoist. Engine now on stand, and I'm done for the day!
Radiator out, accessory devices removed
Building the crane
Crane built
Stand built
Chained up
Push bar in the way
Hood off
Motor up
Motor clear
Photo-op for the helpers
Engine on stand
Engine on stand
Engine on stand
You know you drive a dent when you're using the tailgate of one dent to build the crane that's gonna pull the engine of another dent while another dent holds the toolbox
As you have already figured out, the hood 99% of the time always comes off. 14 bolts complete front clip and no laying over a core support or fender to get to things, you just set on a tire. A used horse blanket makes for a heavy duty lay on the core support pad.
1. I hope you sharpie marked the hood hinge placement? That will speed up realignment. Now I tell ya ha huh? You should of left the hinges on the inners and just marked and pulled the hood. I would also pull the OEM push bar, that way the hoist is as close as possible and you might not have to extend it, but one position.
2. I personally would NEVER pull an engine using a carb plate and those 4 little bolts or use an exhaust manifolds bolt/hole. Use the head bolt or use larger bolt holes in the front of the block.
3. Fold back and zip tie the top/bottom radiator hoses outer your way. Take the tires off and jack stand the front axle, or wood block it, just so the rotors are a 1/4 off the ground. That trick will lower the front end of the truck come reinstall time.
Did you use a floor jack and a 4x4 piece of wood to support the trans? That will make it easier come install time. Might as well install a new water pump and timing set. Use a 71 to wake that 351M up a bit.
As you have already figured out, the hood 99% of the time always comes off. 14 bolts complete front clip and no laying over a core support or fender to get to things, you just set on a tire. A used horse blanket makes for a heavy duty lay on the core support pad.
1. I hope you sharpie marked the hood hinge placement? That will speed up realignment. Now I tell ya ha huh? You should of left the hinges on the inners and just marked and pulled the hood. I would also pull the OEM push bar, that way the hoist is as close as possible and you might not have to extend it, but one position.
2. I personally would NEVER pull an engine using a carb plate and those 4 little bolts or use an exhaust manifolds bolt/hole. Use the head bolt or use larger bolt holes in the front of the block.
3. Fold back and zip tie the top/bottom radiator hoses outer your way. Take the tires off and jack stand the front axle, or wood block it, just so the rotors are a 1/4 off the ground. That trick will lower the front end of the truck come reinstall time.
Did you use a floor jack and a 4x4 piece of wood to support the trans? That will make it easier come install time. Might as well install a new water pump and timing set. Use a 71 to wake that 351M up a bit.
Thanks for the great advice-that's why I love this site!
I had considered pulling by the rear (engine to transmission) bolts and the front (using the a/c pedestal mount-that's a big bolt) - not sure why I didn't follow through on that
The transmission is sitting on its crossmember mount. I'll raise it when I get ready to reinstall the engine
I've got a Summit double roller timing set installed straight up. Is that a different setup from the 71 you mentioned?
Many years back I R&R a 460 from a 79 F-250. Used a carb plate and didn't remove the hood. Don't know why that worked! But yeah, those four little studs holding the carb down seem kind of inadequate for pulling an engine
77&79250 gave you some good tips, I was about to say the same thing about the hood hinges. If you don't have to remove them, then don't. Unbolt the hood from the hinges and then remove the spring from the hinge and it will lay flat out of the way. Re-aligning those hinges can give you fits. For me it take 5 minutes to do one and the other may take 5 tries and 5 separate days over the course of a month to get it to shut correctly. I have had equal fun with a rear main on a 351M but I found success with a 1/8 soft rod and just drove it around into the seal and then pulled it back out. Have fun with it.
77&79250 gave you some good tips, I was about to say the same thing about the hood hinges. If you don't have to remove them, then don't. Unbolt the hood from the hinges and then remove the spring from the hinge and it will lay flat out of the way. Re-aligning those hinges can give you fits. For me it take 5 minutes to do one and the other may take 5 tries and 5 separate days over the course of a month to get it to shut correctly. I have had equal fun with a rear main on a 351M but I found success with a 1/8 soft rod and just drove it around into the seal and then pulled it back out. Have fun with it.
The last thing I tried was an 1/8" soft rod. It went in about an inch, but the opposite side never budged
I considered pulling the hood off the hinges, and perhaps I should have just done that. Pulling the hinges seemed like the lesser of two evils at the time...
Re getting the engine stand and engine lift to work together better, here's what I (eventually) wound up doing:
Lift the engine out.
Set it down on the ground (water pump should be facing toward the lift)
Spin it around 180º so that the water pump is facing away from the lift.
Lift the engine above the stand (extending the arm to the max helps here).
Roll the stand under the engine.
Lower the engine and bolt it to the stand.
This procedure brings the legs for both devices into the same harmony as spoons in a drawer. It's also safer in that all the wheels stay on the ground.
Now that you have the engine on a stand, life will improve significantly. ;-)
PapaBearYuma thanks for sharing that. I've been on the fence about putting bearings in my 351m or just doing the 429 swap. I think you've made up my mind. Gotta start figuring out who owes me $$ now....
PapaBearYuma thanks for sharing that. I've been on the fence about putting bearings in my 351m or just doing the 429 swap. I think you've made up my mind. Gotta start figuring out who owes me $$ now....
I'm sure there are guys that can change the con-rod bearings, the main bearings, and the seals from underneath - and more power to them - but I couldn't do it. I don't know if I would have been able to change the con-rod bearings - i probably could have, but I got stuck on the rear upper main seal
If you have access to a hoist and stand, it's my opinion that it's simply easier to pull the engine. I got more done in a couple hours than I got done in three weekends
PapaBearYuma thanks for sharing that. I've been on the fence about putting bearings in my 351m or just doing the 429 swap. I think you've made up my mind. Gotta start figuring out who owes me $$ now....
Toss the 351 to the curb if you have access to a 429, easy swap with a set of frame mounts . It's twice the motor and will give the same mileage but tons more power. I have had several 351M's , and my 429 and 460 trucks were so much better.
Look at all that gorgeous, rust free, dry, straight and solid vintage dentside sheetmetal! I knew I should've bought my truck when I was stationed in Yuma.
Papa bear, you have a very, very nice collection of dents.
Installed the timing chain cover and new water pump
Installed the counterweight and harmonic balancer (I think that's what they're called)
Installed the new oil pump and pickup
Installed the pan
Removed the old freeze plugs and discovered one had been a block heater. Sanded the openings, cleaned with brake cleaner, replaced the plugs. Sealed with Indian Head shellac
Replaced the steel expansion plug in the back of the engine, although I probably should have left it. That's not actually a water jacket-it's behind the cam
Cleaned up the block and pan
Reinstalled the flywheel
Installed the dipstick (but I should have left it out)
Put the headers back on with just two bolts each (but I should have left them off)
Installed my fancy Summit lift plate (yeah, I know)
Raised the engine and put it in the engine compartment
Couldn't get the headers to clear the transmission, so I pulled them
Lined-up the engine to the transmission, and kept it in line with the long bolts from the engine stand
Connected the flexplate to the torque converter
Replaced the long bolts with the correct bolts as I mated the transmission and engine
Mated in stages, rotating the crank every time, so I could install another nut on the torque converter
Got the engine and transmission together, then finished up the motor mounts
Ran out of light and energy. When you can't find the tools anymore, it's time to knock off for the day!
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And some good helpers and cheering section, too
