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Knowing that now, does a complete replacement of the steering column sound like a better option? I'm willing to try to remove the tube and replace it, but I can't find info on the process.
When I change gears under the hood, should the tube rotate at the top end? If so, if doesn't. Does this indicate that the lower key is also broke?
No, probably not. There's a spring at the bottom of the shift tube that pushes up on the tube. With the upper flange unbolted, the spring has pushed the tube up, disengaging it from the bottom shift arm.
This is a picture of the key that's missing on your tube. The lower key looks the same.
I saw in another post you're wondering how the shift tube is replaced. With the shift collar off, it's relatively simple.
Remove the neutral start switch actuator, it just clips on the shift tube, and pull the tube out. The spring on the end may or may not come out with the tube.
Mike you are a godsend. I have power steering, 2 wheel drive. I have a few mechanic friends, but none have ever been this deep into a steering column. They all just changed the whole column out. After I get the shift tube I'm going to take it to work and try to re-tack the key back on. Your advise has been spot on and right on time. Thank you so much.
Alright Mike, semi-per your instructions, lol. I was able to remove the shift tube, but I had to break the neutral safety switch arm in order to do so. It is clamped with locking tabs. I'm taking the time to work and going to attempt to braze or tack the key back on. Here is what I was able to recover from the column. As always thanks so much for your insight.
I had to break the neutral safety switch arm in order to do so. It is clamped with locking tabs.
Ohhh, you didn't need to do that. There's a hole in the actuator, you insert a small screwdriver in it and pry it off. It'll pop right off. It's not a disaster though, new ones are still available.
As for brazing the key back on, just be advised, the clearance of the key and key way is tight, so you might have to "dress" the braze with a file to get the key to slide into the key way.
Ohhh, you didn't need to do that. There's a hole in the actuator, you insert a small screwdriver in it and pry it off. It'll pop right off. It's not a disaster though, new ones are still available.
Yeah, it was a tight space trying to get anything in the steering column opening for the actuator. I have already ordered a new actuator. I measured the key and the key and was aware of the tight fit. Do you think JB weld would hold the key in place? My concerns about welding or brazing is the amount of heat needed. I don't want to damage the tube, the wall thickness is pretty thin.
Do you think JB weld would hold the key in place? .
You know, I really don't know. My gut feeling is no, there's actually quite a bit of stress on the key when you're moving the shifter.
You can try it, and if it doesn't work replace it with a new one, although for the $50.00 DC wants for a new one, I'd rather just install one that I know will be okay.
My luck has always been, parts that are "iffy" never fail when convenient. They always fail at the worst/most inconvenient time.
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