You can swap the throttle shaft from a Motorcraft 2150 from an AOD application in to an earlier 2150 2100 or 4100 to make them AOD compatible.
Super easy swap I've done it several times.

 

I do not believe Ford put the AOD behind the 351w did they?

 

Nope, they didn't. Too much torque.

 

Yes they did. Crown Vic's and Grand Marquis In Canada till 1985 In Crown Vics PI's till 1990.

In the US, Crown Vic PI's till 1990.

Most 84 and 85 Crown Vics and Merc Grand Marquis found here have the 351W in them.
Back in the day I owned more than a couple mid 80's Grand Marquis and Crown Vics with the 351W and AOD.

 

But, this is a truck forum. So the OP's truck did not come with an AOD if it came with a 351W.

 

When someone states "I do not believe Ford put the AOD behind the 351w did they?" or "Nope, they didn't. Too much torque"

That was not specifically pertaning to trucks. It was stating that Ford did not.

And the AOD was used behind the 351W in the trucks, it was used in the Bronco .

And with the age of these trucks and the number of power train swaps they have seen and considering it can be done with factory parts it is a valid point to make.

 

I'm pretty sure you are wrong. I just went through the Transmission Application Chart in Ford's Master Parts Catalog, Section A70, and there is no instance of an AOD, or as Ford sometimes called it, an AOT, used with a 351W in E, F, or U series vehicles between 1980 and 1989.

Here's what that looks like. However, if you have other information I'd really like to see it as I'm seeking to learn.

 

That's correct.

Not "may," it will absolutely not have the proper linkage for the AOD.

YES for an Autolite 2100 or an earlier Motorcraft 2150, but NO for an Autolite 4100.

That is, you can physically swap the throttle shaft and TV linkage to an Autolite 4100 (so long as you get the same size carburetor) but the 4V intake manifold that is needed to properly use a 4V carburetor re-locates the carburetor further up front, which means the stock AOD TV rod won't reach the TV linkage. I suppose you *might* be able to fabricate something to make it work, but I wouldn't recommend it because the AOD has to be set exactly right or you will damage it very quickly. It is much easier to simply use an aftermarket TV cable instead.

That's correct.

That's incorrect.

Yes, there are many people here on this forum who have done this swap successfully behind a truck 5.8/351 and last a long time (Conanski over in the 1987 -1996 forum, for example). Not sure why Ford didn't offer this combination when these trucks were sold new.

 

Once you install in a 4bbl intake and get rid of all the junk on the intake the factory CV/GM TV rod easily reaches the new position it just sits closer to the intake but the factory rod provides more than enough clearance. There is nothing that needs to be "fabbed" modified or aftermarket parts needed. I have done this swap/mod at least 3 dozen times if not more.
It truly is an all factory parts 4BBL install (minus intake) that really is a true bolt in with no jimmy rigging or parts modifying required.

You do need to swap in the over travel accel pump from an AOD 2150 Carb
On the one below I had the original choke assy from the CV/GM swapped on to the carb for a true bolt in unit.

The best part is you are not permanently modifying either the 2510 you used for parts or the 4100 both can be put back to original if need be.


See below pic of a factory VIC TV rod

See below Pic a 4100 with a AOD compatible throttle shaft.


And you are right about it not being the Bronco my mistake I was thinking of something else.

 

I see what you are saying, and you know what? You are right!

I didn't even think about using the factory CV/GM TV rod when I did my own AOD to Autolite 4100 conversion. For the models that had the AOD/351 (4V) combo, the TV rod would be longer than the TV rod that came with the AOD/302 (2V) combo because the location of the carburetor mounting pad is further back on the 2V intake. (Do you happen to have one for sale or do you know the part number for the CV/GM TV rod?)

I must have thought of everything else except for that! I ended up using the Lokar TV cable with a Holley geometry corrector bracket. It works very well, but I wanted to retain the Ford TV rod for a factory look. Now I know what to do.

Here is a thread I wrote on the subject:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...th-an-aod.html


Why is that? I didn't do that on my conversion and I haven't had any problems?


I like the way you think. I swapped the original [electric assist] choke assembly as well as the solepot from my Motorcraft 2150 to my Autolite 4100 when I did this conversion years ago for the same reason you did: "a true bolt in unit" with Ford parts that looks completely stock.

Have you figured out a way to run the evaporative emissions hose from the fuel bowls of the Autolite 4100 (open emissions with vented holes) to the charcoal canister?


That is the best part!

 

On the rare occasion I am lol.

I don't have the part number the parts manuals I have do not go that new lol. I'm sure Bill (aka Number Dummy) could help out.

I could not find an application where the AOD was used with the a 4bbl.
I just used the 2BBL TV rod, yes you are changing the distance between the Throttle plate and the trans but the path the rod takes is not a strait line. it is an arc so all you are doing is changing the path of the arc that the TV rod takes the actual throttle to trans ratio stays exactly the same.

As they say there is more than one way to skin a cat. it worked for you and that is what counts in the end.


As for the accel pump this is the one thing most miss when doing this conversion. Since the accel pump is hooked directly to the throttle shaft on the AOD carbs (no take up spring) the take up or cushion spring is in the accel pump on AOD carbs. If you mash the throttle the Accel pump can only move as fast as it can pump the fuel out of the diaphragm the over travel or take up is in the accel Pump housing on AOD carbs, this allows the throttle to fully open with out over stressing the pump diaphragm. Now this is not an issue on the lowest pump setting. But the AOD carbs have 3 accel pump settings for the rod. See below pic. I always use as much accel pump as and engine will handle before stumbling or hesitating or woofing too much black smoke for max acceleration.

If you use the standard 4100 accel pump there is no cushion in the linkage of the pump diaphragm, hook that to an AOD throttle shaft and you are forcing the accel pump diaphragm fully depressed when you mash the throttle full open whether it is ready to be or not. This is not much of an issue on lower pump settings but it is on the higher ones.

Plus it shortens the length of time for the Accel pump shot. Also you end dumping a pile of fuel down the carb right now with no length to the pump shot. This will over time weaken the pump diaphragm and cause it to rupture not to mention hurting acceleration.


Where I live we have no Emission testing no yearly vehicle inspections, no nothing once a vehicle is on the road it is on the road for good. Your insurance company (not motor vehicles) "may" require a road worthiness inspection when you newly insure a vehicle that is more than 12 years old. (lights brakes steering suspension some do not even require body inspections)
Or the insurance company "may" request an inspection once you have had a vehicle insured for say like 20 years.

As far as the Gov't is concerned if it has registration and insurance it is on the road. The only inspections Province (motor vehicles) does require is a one time Inspection if the vehicle is not in the provincial motor vehicle system. Either due length of time of lapsed registration ( I think it is 10 years IIRC) or it was last registered in another province or out of country (Brand new vehicles are except from this of course)

So When I did these conversions ALL and I mean ALL the emissions stuff Cat Cons, Evap, EGR, Carb Feed back, Smog pumps ECU controlled ignition all associated wiring and vac lines and steel tubing, the whole works of it was removed and tossed. The only thing that stays is the throttle kicking for A/C engine temp etc if equipped. Basically you end with a late 60's install. The corker is the 4100 is such a good carb and so finely tuneable you can get near the same emissions as with all the crap on it.

This was big job on 7100VV equipped cars and you ended up with 50Lbs of extra crap and a birds nest of wiring and vac hoses afterwards

If you had to have the Evap from canister hooked up. there are a couple options. You could section the top from a 2150 And weld the the part in to the 4100. Or you could install a 90° hose barb in to the vent pocket of the 4100 on the front bowl. Not a fan of either as you are wrecking what are now becoming harder to find carbs. The connection to the top of the carb is to just catch the evap from fuel bowl so it does not vent to the atmosphere. You could just leave it unhooked. Doubt ANY feed back system is going to detect it is not hooked up and if you have installed a 4100 the Feedback is gone any way.

And thanks.

 

So, you use a 2V TV rod on all of your 4V conversions without ANY modifications at all?

VERY interesting. You seem to really know what you are talking about.

To reiterate, since I am using an Autolite 4100 with the standard 4100 throttle shaft, I can still use the standard 4100 accelerator pump? In other words, the AOD-specific accelerator pump is needed ONLY if you use the AOD-specific throttle shaft? Is that what you are saying?


I agree! Which is why I insisted on an Autolite 4100 when I decided to replace the original Motorcraft 2150 2V carburetor for a 4V.

 

Yup no modification needed at all. The rod in all the applications save one (a Fox body) fit with no changes. The fox body needed it bent a bit to clear the fire wall. I should have been smart and used a rod from 3.8L Fox with an AOD instead of a Vic one DOH (20/20 hindsight).
The other Fox I did had no issues but I had installed the Fox body Lincoln Conti K member and that K member sits the engine down lower by about an 1 1/2" for better hood clearance and a better suspension/handling (same as the SVO Mustang suspension/K member)
If you think about it what is critical is the ratio between the Throttle shaft and the TV linkage on the trany. A TV Cable could run in a strait line or do loop de loops it will not matter how long or short it is as long as the ratio is the same it is going to work.
The rod is no different as long as it clears obstructions through out it's travel your good to go.

And most of the conversions I did were a 4bbl swap on to an existing AOD equipped car so I used what was there. And if I needed a rod a trip to the local u pull it yard 5 mins and 1$ got me one. Fortunately here the 351W W/AOD was very common in the Vic and GM, even now they are relatively easy to find.


Some times I actually do lol.

Yes if you are using the 4100 throttle shaft you do not need to swap in the 2150 AOD style accel pump. The pump over travel on the 4100 and standard 2100/50 is on the throttle shaft so you are good to go.

I choose to swap the throttle shafts for a couple reasons no need to purchase after market parts that may or may not work (the early kits sucked bad) you can retain the stock choke that came with the vehicle (Some of the choke ends of the throttle shafts are different than the 4100 in certain applications.)
It looks a whole pile cleaner than a bunch of tacked on parts. Increased primary flow. The 2150 shafts are a half shaft at the throttle blades. The blades bolt on to the shaft. The original 4100's insert in a slot cut in the shaft and then are bolted so there is smaller cross section of the throttle shaft on the 2150 shaft. I use the 2150 throttle blades also. They fit in the 4100 perfectly. (As long as the bore size is the same)

And yes the 4100 is the single most underrated 4bbl ever made. It is superior to Carters, qudrajet's , holley's everything. It is stupid simple can digest filthy dirty fuel with little to no issues. It's super easy to tune and set up. They have excellent throttle response when set up for it. They have like 9 moving parts so they are incredibly reliable. They can easily be converted to AOD applications with stock Ford parts. They accept stock Ford air cleaners with NO issues. They maintain stock install height so no hood clearance issues. Rebuilding is a breeze and any fool with three functioning brain cells can do it.

The one and only drawback was it was never made in larger CFM configurations. It really is a shame that Ford did not continue development of it for the 385's instead developing those boat anchor 4300/50's since the costs would have be shared with the 2100 series.
For mid displacement Ford engines (to 400 Cui street ) it is the best there is. On the small block Fords it is the best vac secondary 4BBL carb by a very wide margin and even today there is no better vac secondary 4bbl carb on the market as far as I'm concerned .

If Ford had kept developing the 4100, Ford performance in the 1970's and early 1980's would have looked a whole lot different (for the better).

Holly did attempt to bring the 4100 back to life as the 4010/11 But it was a an abortion it was poorly engineered and had several issues, they strayed away from everything that made the 4100 such a good carb in the first place. Mind you this was during the time period when Holly's quality went for a dump so no surprise.

 

Strong praise, indeed. However, I think that saying it is good for up to 400 CI is a stretch. When I was spec'ing things for my 400 I talked with Tim Meyer at length about carbs. He strongly urged me to to go with a 750 CFM carb given my goal of 500 lb-ft. And, by the way, I saw his dyno show "500" more than once a week ago today, using a Street Demon 750.

 

That is why I said 400 CUI street. If you do the calculations for CFM requirement they will support a 400 nicely.
The max CFM in the 4100 was 670 CFM
Remember the 4100 was used on the 390 from the factory. You are not going to make 400Hp in a 400 with a 4100. But 300hp is not out of the question. And that just happened to be what the 390 was making (300-330hp) with the 4100 in the early 60's from the factory.

The 1.19" bore carbs were 670 CFM these were used on the 390's

The 1.12" bore carbs (and the most common) were 600 CFM Perfect for 351 displacement and were used on 352's. So calibrating for a 351W is super easy and usually don't even need a jet change or not much of one.


The small guy was 1.08" bore and was 480 CFM. It was used on the 289's and is real neck snapper on the 289 and 302 and are really good on the 255 and the 260 Just don't expect to be spinning really high RPM's in the 302.

The 1.08" bore carbs are scarce and command premium dollars when you do find one.

So as long as you are not planning to make huge power from a 390 or 400 the 4100 is a good choice.

The 670 CFM 1.19" Bore would even work on a mild or stock 385 Series engine mind you I have never tried this but it would be an interesting experiment.

Any Volunteers lol