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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 05:06 PM
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First time for everything

Hello all, I'm looking to learn how to do some of the maintenance on our vehicles. My husband has very limited time and I'd like to take on some of the novice-friendly tasks. Things that can be done in my driveway with basic tools and help from YouTube and FTE forums.
In reading here the last couple of weeks, I've think that the first thing I need to tackle is a coolant flush and coolant filter. I've read the threads in the tech folder and started a list of things I need. I'm going to try not to make a pest of myself with too many questions, but I'd be very grateful for any advice.

I have 2 questions to start off with, though.
Some say always use Motorcraft Gold coolant, others say never use it. How do I decide who to believe?

And, will anyone tell me what this (top left corner) is? Passenger side, radiator on the right.
<img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5519/30259295011_1879ec8752_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="6.0 PSD"></a>
 
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 05:42 PM
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Transmission filter,my kinda girl. My wife USED to get dirty with me but has slowly gotten away from it
 
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 05:47 PM
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Thanks very much
 
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 06:15 PM
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Lots of things you can do yourself. Oil and filter, fuel filters, transmission filter and fluid, front and rear diff, transfer case, coolant flush. I recommend only deionized water or revers osmosis water, if you do a good job, many rinses, might as well convert to CAT ELC red coolant from ford gold. Adding a coolant filter isn't hard either. Take your time and plan your work, make sure you buy original Motorcraft oil, fuel filters, transmission filter. Your manual won't tell you, but I recommend CJ4 diesel motor oil, if your located in winter climate in BC, 10w30 for winter, 15w40 for summer and all towing. If using synthetic, go 0w40 or 5w40 full synthetic year round. I get mine from the co-op it's called DMO 0w40 and best price for full synthetic(alberta tar sand oil base stock).
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 02:03 PM
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Thanks, Mike.

So here's where I'm at - I need a coolant flush, a coolant filtration system and apparently some sort of gauges. I'm leaning heavily toward DashBoss for gauges. Do I need to have all three in place at the same time, or can I hold off on the DashBoss? I still have a stock oil cooler and I'd like to keep it functioning if possible so I'm worried about doing a thorough flush and gumming it up. I know that the coolant that's in there is in rough shape so I'd like to change it as soon as possible.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 04:15 PM
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I'd just flush it with hose water. then when it comes clear ,do a distilled flush. Then after use the new Zerex GO5. It looks like the old Ford Gold and mixes with it , but doesn't have any silicant in it. Also it is for diesels. I just did mine that way because it's easy to find at the local stores if your traveling and blow a hose or something.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2016 | 01:25 PM
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Actuially GO5 is a HOAT and does contain a small amount of silicates. It is basically
The aftermarket version of Ford Gold.
Valvoline? ZEREX? G-05? Antifreeze / Coolant : Product Catalog - Valvoline®
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by lanneinbc
Thanks, Mike.

So here's where I'm at - I need a coolant flush, a coolant filtration system and apparently some sort of gauges. I'm leaning heavily toward DashBoss for gauges. Do I need to have all three in place at the same time, or can I hold off on the DashBoss? I still have a stock oil cooler and I'd like to keep it functioning if possible so I'm worried about doing a thorough flush and gumming it up. I know that the coolant that's in there is in rough shape so I'd like to change it as soon as possible.
Gauges would be helpful to have so you can see the 'before and after' effects of work you do (among many other things). Scangauge can be had for about $135. Don't know about DashBoss. But if gauges are not in the immediate future, I'd move forward with the coolant flush. You won't know if the coolant swap made any difference (temp differentials) without the gauges. Just don't use any chemicals since you're leaving the oil cooler in.

As you said, there's ongoing debate about the coolants. Many have had success with the gold while others have not. I ruled out the gold because I feel that the silicates contribute to clogging the oil cooler. I went with the red and have had good luck in the last 60K miles. I've averaged 8* diffs before and after the coolant change 2-1/2 years ago, so at least it hasn't gotten any worse (fingers crossed).

Regarding the gauges, they should be very high on the priority list (a must have). They will tell you so much about the condition of your truck.

Regarding the coolant filtration, there is also debate about whether or not it is helpful. I did it and glad I did. I was able to install mine in about an hour or 2 and I'm not the fastest kid on the block. The cheapest isn't necessarily the best. It may not catch everything, but for me, it caught a good amount of goop.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 09:08 AM
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Yes, G-05 is a low silicate.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 09:18 AM
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ZXED1 is a good choice if you're looking for silicate free coolant. I wouldn't mix it with a low silicate product though.
Valvoline? ZEREX? Extended Life Antifreeze / Coolant : Product Catalog - Valvoline®
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
ZXED1 is a good choice if you're looking for silicate free coolant. I wouldn't mix it with a low silicate product though.
Valvoline? ZEREX? Extended Life Antifreeze / Coolant : Product Catalog - Valvoline®
Yes it is. That's what I'm running now. Found at NAPA. I've also heard good things about Rotella ELC. I've seen that at Tractor Supply for pretty reasonable $.

OP...I'm sure you know but just in case, be sure to get the concentrate, not the 50/50 pre-diluted coolant.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 10:25 AM
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Would anyone be concerned about the coolant flushing clogging the oil cooler?

It would definitley be nice to know temps before and after....

I did a days worth of coolant flushing then replaced my oil cooler and added a coolant filter at the same time

check this thread out.....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...cs-inside.html

I would just be aware a coolant flush could cause issues
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 03:39 PM
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Thanks everyone! I think I've decided what I'm going to do. I can get a good deal on the Cat ELC pre-mix for later on, so I'm going to replace the current whatever-it-is with the Cat concentrate and distilled water. No chemical flush for now, and we have hard well water here, so also no hose.

And, for now I'll skip the filter and get DashBoss first. (Does anyone know of a Canadian distributor?) It would be nice to see before and after numbers, but I'm not going to wait to change the coolant. My lower rad hose is leaking - replacing that will be enough for one day for me
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by lanneinbc
Thanks everyone! I think I've decided what I'm going to do. I can get a good deal on the Cat ELC pre-mix for later on, so I'm going to replace the current whatever-it-is with the Cat concentrate and distilled water. No chemical flush for now, and we have hard well water here, so also no hose.

And, for now I'll skip the filter and get DashBoss first. (Does anyone know of a Canadian distributor?) It would be nice to see before and after numbers, but I'm not going to wait to change the coolant. My lower rad hose is leaking - replacing that will be enough for one day for me
I highly doubt a coolant change would do anything with the temps.

Me personally I love the scan gauge II you could probably find it much easier then the dashboss.

you could also get a coolant filter for about $100 and it's well worth it. On all of my pervious 6.0s I never did install one but I'm sure glad I did on my current truck.

Glad to see you're helping your husband out....now only if I could get my fiancé to do the same!!!
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 06:03 PM
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Important info on that trans filter, that thing can be hard to get off. It gets pretty stuck on there over time and the bracket is flimsy. If you try to gently remove it the bracket bends. If compressed air is available, an impact wrench is the best way to get it off, other options are to use a tie strap to help support it while breaking the filter loose or pull the whole assembly off the truck and chuck it up in a vise.
 
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