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I'm about to do my first Oil Change (@1500km) on my new 2003 Ranger. This happens to be my first solely owned vehicle. I hear every other major brand name mentioned except Quakerstate.
Any opinions on Quakerstate Oil and filters?
Also, Is the oil filter with "metric thread" or without?
Quakerstate and Pennzoil both have parafin wax in them. Dont use it. The previous owner(s) of my bronco used it and thats why my oil pressure is at almost ZERO. The oil puckup tube screen is clogged with that crap!
Nothing seriously wrong with Quaker State. The Parrafin is not like candle wax and unless I am mistaken and I could be most dino oils contain it to some degree. Take a visit to the bobistheoilguy website. Lots of info over there. They hold Pennzoil in high regard but really do not ever say much about Quaker State. Consider Motorcraft as well as most think is is a very good dino oil as well as Castrol Chevron Supreme and the Chevron produced Havoline. If the Quaker State filters are made by Fram I personally would not use them. Use the Motorcraft or even the Walmart brand Supertech. Believe it or not they are a pretty good filter. They are virtually the same as Bosch, STP, many AC Delco and the factory filter which came on your truck in most cases. Wix, Purolator, and Napa Gold filters work well also. The main thing is to use a good quality oil of the proper viscosity and filter and do not stretch the interval past the oil's capabilies and enjoy your truck for many miles.
I've used Quaker State in the past and never had a problem with it. Most of my quaker state cars were driven more then 160,000 miles without engine problems.
we have had excellent luck with quakerstate oil, we had a van that had nearly 300,000 miles on the origonal engine (302) and apon removal and teardown of the engine, it was as clean as a bone on the inside, unlike oils like pennsoil, which leave a black residue everywhere, i dont know very much about the science in oils, but one thing that I can say is that I will always use quakerstate.only thing we ever had to fix on that engine was the nylon gear timing chain. use quaker, maintain it like you should, and your truck will last a long time.
What is the best oil- man you know how to ask a loaded question. There is no one "best" oil. What works great in a 4.6 won't work in a 460 or PSD. Some engines do not respond well to synthetics. Fishin1976 favorite of Mobil 1 in the weight 5w-20 is the lowest in that range. It barely makes grade. But because of the 153-H spec that it meets, it still is a great oil, just not anywhere near the best. M1's 10w-30 has been a good oil but won't work in a PSD as it is not rated for diesels. So the final answer is- there ain't one.
Been running Pennzoil for something like 25 years, a whole buncha miles. NO problems, zero, zilch, nada. Forget about the parafin thing already. I also know folks that have had similar good luck with Castrol, Valvoline, etc. If you use the proper oil from a reputable manufacturer, you'll do fine.
For a better oil than Quaker State, try Chalet brand oil. 40 weight, non detergent, "SB" certified. Once you use Chalet, you'll never use Quaker State, or even Mobil 1 again!
I was lead to believe that pennsoil and quakerstate were good long distance oils( I.E good for cars that see long trips over 50 miles on a regular basis.). That, supposedly, gets the oil hot enought to vaporize the parafin, exits through the PCV system and gets burnt in the combustion chamber. Otherwise the parafin only liquifies, sticks to rockers and other parts until the parafin is out of the oil, then you do a oil change and repeat the process.
Mobil1 or royal purple synthetics seem to be the best oils IMO, ( for gasoline engines anyway) just more expensive. I use valvoline or havaline all time and have had no oil related problems on any engine. I had a 87 f150 300-6 w/193K, the previous owner only used valvoline, and the rockers in the head had no build up whatsoever. Comversely, The '88 351w w/80k was run on pennsoil its entire life. The prev owner only drove the truck 15 minutes a day, for 5 years. The rubber oil pan gasket deteriated and clogg the oilpump screen, so I got to look at the engine when the mech tore down the engine to replace the crank and bearings. It was horrible, 1/4 in of **** on everything. He cleaned the engine out with Gunk and a pressure washer, now running on valvoline 10w30, the oil is still fairly clear after 2500 miles. When I was diagnosing the clogged oil pump screen, I drained the oil. It came out like sludge, I had chunks of parafin coming out with the oil. I know it was parafin, because it stuck to the bottom of the drain pan after it cooled down, (always change your oil hot.) I had to scrubb the drain pan to get it all off. Sticky, gooey nasty pennsoil. I already knew enough not to use pennsoil, but this just made for proof of why I don't. I have heard the same about quakerstate, but have had no experiences with it to form a educated opinion.
I use Mystik JT-8. It has the CH-4 / CI-4 / SL ratings, which although the "C" ratings are for diesel, will help keep the engine clean. Here are the spec's for it. I figure it's what the farmers use, so it has to be good!
Rotella T or Delo would probably work just as good.
My brother has used quakerstate for years without a problem. He does change the oil at 2000 miles, though.
If you ran any engine for only 15 minutes a day for five years with "normal" oil changes you are going to have big time sludge problems with any brand of oil.
WHEN IS THIS PARAFFIN WAX MYTH EVER GOING TO END?
Even the least expensive base oil is a solvent-dewaxed Group I. Straight-distilled motor oil has not been made for decades. Paraffinic hydrocarbons are NOT automatically waxes. Methane (CH4) is a praffinic hydrocarbon. Where is the wax in natural gas?