I just got this 1989 F350 with a 460 a little over a month ago, and from the get-go I noticed they disconnected the pump, but everything else still appears to be there ( from what I can tell ).

There are misc. vacuum lines that go to all of the smog stuff, and some of them are disconnected, some not disconnected, and I notice that the EGR Valve is still connected.

I would like to properly remove all of this stuff, but I'm not sure what to leave installed, and what to remove, and could use some advice, as I've tried searching on the forum, and Google, but can't really find any straight forward answers, and I believe this all has something to do with my truck running rich.

I've taken pictures of what all I believe belongs to the smog system.


( These two canisters are right behind the battery on the left wheel well )


( Here is one of the disconnected vacuum lines, this is to the left of the intake )


( This disconnected vacuum line appears to run from the two canisters on the left wheel well, to some sort of distribution valve below the EGR Valve on the driver side valve cover )


( I'm not too sure what all of this is, the disconnected line in the photo above this one, connects from this, two the two canisters on the left wheel well, as well as a green line from here, to the EGR Valve - See Below Picture )





I apologize in advance for seeming so dumbfounded about this, I've never dealt with such a sloppy setup, and can't find a proper diagram anywhere.

Thanks!

 

Everything up until the last picture is part of the Secondary Air Injection system (SAI). What this does is it uses a belt driven air pump to send fresh air to either the rear of the cylinder heads or the catalytic converter. Its operation is governed by the Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) vacuum control solenoid that operates the valve in Image #2.

The last image is the EGR valve, which opens/closes depending on the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid. The valve itself opens during cruise conditions to lower NOx emissions, which occurs when inert exhaust gasses from the exhaust enter the intake through the valve.

Basically yes, it's all for smog control. And I gotta say, it looks REALLY messy under your hood. Needs some serious love and parts to set it right.

Also, in the second to last pic it looks like your oil fill cap is busted off in the valve cover.

 

Yeah it is pretty messy, I'm surprised everything works, including the ac. Sometime in mid 2017 I plan on rebuilding the motor, and I'm going to go through it all then. Just need to finish our trans am first. As for the oil cap, it's still removable, I need to get another one. I got this truck in its present condition a month ago.

Also, if the pumps are bypassed, does it matter if the vacuum line going to the TAB and EGR valve is disconnected, will it effect anything? The truck no longer has any cats, the po ran duals that exit behind the rear wheels.

 

Pump, not pumps. These trucks use only one.

The computer probably won't throw a code if the vacuum line to the TAB is off but the EGR valve will not open if it doesn't get vacuum - and that WILL throw a code.

In the last picture the 'MADE IN CANADA' part is the EGR vacuum regulator. The vacuum line from that should go to the valve that has the three wires and green vacuum line in the same picture.

 

Makes sense, is it possible to run a line directly to the valve then? I don't like the idea of having it run through the whole system when it's no longer functional.

 

If the vacuum line is off of the EGR valve it will set a code, but it won't give a CEL. EGR saves you money, wish I would have kept mine but the valve and tube were done.

If you disconnect the air system it does the same thing. Just make sure you leave EGR, TAB and TAD solenoids electrically connected.

If you do away with the EGR valve function you need to keep the valve. The 3rd wire on the connector gives valve position feedback to the computer. Mine are mounted and blocked off. I tried taking the electrical piece off the valve and that set the CEL off for valve being out of range. The valve pushes in on the sensor plunger a little.

 

No, that would be too easy. You can run straight from manifold to egr solenoid, and solenoid to valve.

2 vacuum lines and 2 electrical connectors. not a very big system.

Whatever you do, DO NOT block off the exhaust flow to the manifold and leave everything else in tact. The computer will think the EGR is flowing and lean out the fuel mixture.

 

If by exhaust flow you mean the tube running from the EGR valve to the drivers side manifold, it appears they cut it and plugged the hole on the manifold. Should I replace that with a new tube?

I'm beginning to wonder if it might just be better to fix the whole smog system. Though I don't know how I'd do that without having the cats or anything.

 

If no cats and the tube is plugged, you can make it all go away if you like. Just keep the electrical connectors plugged in. But either way, for now make sure the egr valve can't get any vacuum.

 

Thank you both for all the help. Is it alright to remove the big hoses going to the pump, or is it best to leave them in tact?