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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 07:10 PM
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Engine running rough

I have an 02 f250 5.4. I just did the intake manifold. I also changed the spark plugs and the valve cover gasket. Following this I drained the oil and filled it with fresh oil.

It started right up but it felt like the engine was really vibrating and running rough. The check engine light than came on. I don't have one of those tools to diagnose it.

Anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 07:35 PM
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Check make sure you got your coils on right. I've done that before, not seated the coil properly after taking it off.

Otherwise, you'll need to goto Autozone or actually most any parts store and use their code reader.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Borgia
I don't have one of those tools to diagnose it.
Get one.
Originally Posted by Borgia
Anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong?
Yes, you don't have one of those tools to diagnose it.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 08:28 AM
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I woke up today and pushed on a few of the ignition coils. I than started it up and it seemed to run smoother. It has no power though, on the hill near my house I couldn't get over 20 mph.

My wife has the car so it's not like I can just run over to autozone to pick up a diagnostic tool, so if anyone has any other ideas I'd love to hear them
 
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 08:51 AM
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Reset the PCM. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and jump the negative cable to the positive.

Don't jump the battery. Because obviously.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 09:07 AM
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Thanks. Would this video be accurate on resetting the PCM?

Bc it doesn't mention jumping the negative/positive?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 10:15 AM
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Using the headlights is one common way people say to do it. One of the Ford techs said use a jumper on the wires. To me it makes sense to complete the main circuit by mimicking the battery being in place, instead of completing a sub-circuit through the headlights. Practical impact? Probably absolutely none after 15 minutes.

This will cost you the stored code, but you can't read it anyways. And if it's a real hard part problem the code will pop again.

 
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 10:35 AM
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I am trying the jumper method as we speak. I don't have the clips so am using a wire from my electric fence, hopefully it works the same?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 01:09 PM
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I was able to reset it and took it for a drive to start to reprogram it. Everything seemed to be fine and the power had returned, however, at about 4 miles the truck overheated. I looked under the hood and noticed I forgot to put a clamp on one of the radiator hoses and the coolant had all leaked out as I was driving. I got a tow back to my home and will replace the coolant. My question is will I need to reset the PCM again because the overheat would have somehow mixed things up or just fill up the coolant and continue to drive it.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 02:04 PM
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You need to buy a scanner and figure out the real problem, resetting the PCM is a band-aid to get you to the parts store. If you have a hard part issue (coil, plug, wiring, etc) it will happen again.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 02:09 PM
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Ok any rec on a good scanner for the $
 
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 07:01 PM
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The best bang for the buck is an OBD2 dongle and a smartphone app.
I use Torque Pro for Android and a Bluetooth dongle such as this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251274981056?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITLink to Torque app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...l.torque&hl=en
Free TorqueScan plug-in for Torque Pro app for easy access to more live scan info:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...rquescan&hl=en

If you are in the minority of people who still use an iphone, you can get a wifi dongle that will work on either an Android or iphone.
 
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