1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

EOT and smokey starts

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  #16  
Old 10-11-2016, 04:14 PM
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My batteries are 5 years old; starter age is unknown.
 
  #17  
Old 10-11-2016, 04:24 PM
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you are only heating an eraser head sized spot in a 4 inch can, its not going to burn all the fuel when cold




even when warm there might be a few revs of unburt fuel or moisture present unless you are losing coolant then that's different
 
  #18  
Old 10-11-2016, 04:33 PM
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This morning I went outside, started my truck, went back inside to finish my cup of coffee, then went back out a couple minutes later and it was still huffing a light haze of smoke. It sounds like Splatts is having the same issue, so we are not just talking about a few revs of unburnt fuel. It's incomplete combustion every cycle until the block is warm, be it from running or block heater.
 
  #19  
Old 10-11-2016, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by knottyrope
EOT when cold shouldn't matter. but it shouldn't go more than 20* above coolant.


Not letting us know your mods makes things more difficult.
Make a signature with all of them in User CP


What GPs are you using?
Mine are motor craft and don't seem to heat up fast so I have to wait 10 seconds longer than what WTS says and it starts right up. my tractor hardly ever need more than 10 seconds.


Diesels smoke from unburnt fuel. You upgraded injectors can put more fuel in and can cause more smoking on start up depending on tuner parameters.


you will see more smoke with stacks too, long exhaust will condense in the pipe a bit before you notice
I have all my mods listed. Haven't been on in a while did they change some format or something? I know In the mobile version I don't see anyones mods.

Totally agree with you on the unburnt fuel. But when I first did my hood stack about 6 months after new motorcraft gp's it didn't smoke at all. So I am leaning towards tuning, I switched from stock split shot to rosewood single shot stage 1's. but I want to be sure that I don't have anything jacked up on my side of the table.

Crap now I have my niece and nephew's (twins) 3yr old b-day party to go to on Saturday. Plans officially messed with. Lol
 
  #20  
Old 10-11-2016, 10:34 PM
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I think there is some setting or something about whether you are posting from the mobile site or mobile device that determines if your signature shows.
 
  #21  
Old 10-11-2016, 11:36 PM
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Sig is the WRONG place for such info. Mobile device may not show it, there's the new vs. old interface, even on a computer a lot of users turn OFF sigs because too many users put too much crAP in their sigs. Post relevant vehicle and mod info in the opening post. That way it appears ONCE in the thread.
 
  #22  
Old 10-12-2016, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Sig is the WRONG place for such info. Mobile device may not show it, there's the new vs. old interface, even on a computer a lot of users turn OFF sigs because too many users put too much crAP in their sigs. Post relevant vehicle and mod info in the opening post. That way it appears ONCE in the thread.
Yeah Check thanks.
97 f350 Cali truck single shot rosewood 1's-t-500 140v idm dp-tuner f6 145xxx miles.
 
  #23  
Old 10-12-2016, 09:00 AM
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compression test cold and warm is needed if GPs are ok
 
  #24  
Old 11-05-2016, 05:03 PM
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Had some time to do some volt checks.
Batteries are at 12.3 volts (engine off gp'soff)
hot lug on gpr is 12.3 volts (engine off gp's off)
with key on and glow plugs on
batteries drop to 11.9 volts
and the load side of gpr is 10.3 volts

that seems like a big drop to me. Like the gp's are getting enough juice to work properly.
 
  #25  
Old 11-05-2016, 08:21 PM
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Do that same check, key ON, but check both GPR large terminals. That will confirm it, but it looks like the voltage drop across the contacts on the GPR is WAAAAY too much. Short answer - replace GPR.
 
  #26  
Old 11-06-2016, 07:43 AM
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There should be almost no voltage drop between the big posts on the GPR when activated. I agree, replace it. Then, check the new one. I have had them bad right out of the box!
 
  #27  
Old 11-06-2016, 08:02 AM
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I did the western relay and like it. It's been on for less than a year, but its supposed to be an upgrade and you can't beat the price.

Western Solenoid Motor Relay NS 56131
 
  #28  
Old 11-06-2016, 10:55 AM
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The voltage on each side of the gpr is the same. Had 12.3 volts at the batteries then when key is turned on both posts on the gpr read 10.7 and batteries drop to 11.2
 
  #29  
Old 11-06-2016, 12:52 PM
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That sounds a lot better than the numbers in post #24. I just checked one of our trucks, and drop from batteries to hot side of GPR is aprx. 0.5V, so I think that's normal. It's the drop between the posts that counts. More than 0.3V means replace the GPR. Sounds like yours is intermittent. I would test it multiple times. If it isn't consistently below 0.3V, consider the Western Plow relay referenced above, or a Stancor (White-Rodgers) 586-902.
 
  #30  
Old 11-06-2016, 01:04 PM
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The first number was just the load side of the gpr, and my heater fan was on so it was slightly lower. Also I didn't check both sides of the gpr initially.
 


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