EOT and smokey starts
#17
#18
This morning I went outside, started my truck, went back inside to finish my cup of coffee, then went back out a couple minutes later and it was still huffing a light haze of smoke. It sounds like Splatts is having the same issue, so we are not just talking about a few revs of unburnt fuel. It's incomplete combustion every cycle until the block is warm, be it from running or block heater.
#19
EOT when cold shouldn't matter. but it shouldn't go more than 20* above coolant.
Not letting us know your mods makes things more difficult.
Make a signature with all of them in User CP
What GPs are you using?
Mine are motor craft and don't seem to heat up fast so I have to wait 10 seconds longer than what WTS says and it starts right up. my tractor hardly ever need more than 10 seconds.
Diesels smoke from unburnt fuel. You upgraded injectors can put more fuel in and can cause more smoking on start up depending on tuner parameters.
you will see more smoke with stacks too, long exhaust will condense in the pipe a bit before you notice
Not letting us know your mods makes things more difficult.
Make a signature with all of them in User CP
What GPs are you using?
Mine are motor craft and don't seem to heat up fast so I have to wait 10 seconds longer than what WTS says and it starts right up. my tractor hardly ever need more than 10 seconds.
Diesels smoke from unburnt fuel. You upgraded injectors can put more fuel in and can cause more smoking on start up depending on tuner parameters.
you will see more smoke with stacks too, long exhaust will condense in the pipe a bit before you notice
Totally agree with you on the unburnt fuel. But when I first did my hood stack about 6 months after new motorcraft gp's it didn't smoke at all. So I am leaning towards tuning, I switched from stock split shot to rosewood single shot stage 1's. but I want to be sure that I don't have anything jacked up on my side of the table.
Crap now I have my niece and nephew's (twins) 3yr old b-day party to go to on Saturday. Plans officially messed with. Lol
#21
Sig is the WRONG place for such info. Mobile device may not show it, there's the new vs. old interface, even on a computer a lot of users turn OFF sigs because too many users put too much crAP in their sigs. Post relevant vehicle and mod info in the opening post. That way it appears ONCE in the thread.
#22
Sig is the WRONG place for such info. Mobile device may not show it, there's the new vs. old interface, even on a computer a lot of users turn OFF sigs because too many users put too much crAP in their sigs. Post relevant vehicle and mod info in the opening post. That way it appears ONCE in the thread.
97 f350 Cali truck single shot rosewood 1's-t-500 140v idm dp-tuner f6 145xxx miles.
#23
#24
Had some time to do some volt checks.
Batteries are at 12.3 volts (engine off gp'soff)
hot lug on gpr is 12.3 volts (engine off gp's off)
with key on and glow plugs on
batteries drop to 11.9 volts
and the load side of gpr is 10.3 volts
that seems like a big drop to me. Like the gp's are getting enough juice to work properly.
Batteries are at 12.3 volts (engine off gp'soff)
hot lug on gpr is 12.3 volts (engine off gp's off)
with key on and glow plugs on
batteries drop to 11.9 volts
and the load side of gpr is 10.3 volts
that seems like a big drop to me. Like the gp's are getting enough juice to work properly.
#25
#26
#27
I did the western relay and like it. It's been on for less than a year, but its supposed to be an upgrade and you can't beat the price.
Western Solenoid Motor Relay NS 56131
Western Solenoid Motor Relay NS 56131
#28
#29
That sounds a lot better than the numbers in post #24. I just checked one of our trucks, and drop from batteries to hot side of GPR is aprx. 0.5V, so I think that's normal. It's the drop between the posts that counts. More than 0.3V means replace the GPR. Sounds like yours is intermittent. I would test it multiple times. If it isn't consistently below 0.3V, consider the Western Plow relay referenced above, or a Stancor (White-Rodgers) 586-902.
#30