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99 5.4l 2v cam shaft holding and alignment tool and crankshaft alignment tool

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Old 10-10-2016, 09:10 PM
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99 5.4l 2v cam shaft holding and alignment tool and crankshaft alignment tool

I'm in the process of replacing head gasket on 99 250 ld 5.4 2v engine. I'm trying to find the cam shaft alignment tool, holding tool and crankshaft alignment tool. If anyone has mfr name and tool number (ie OTC) and if possible pictures of the tools. I want to make sure I get the proper tools for the job.
 
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:30 AM
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Where we currently stand. Have it all done up-to timing cover removal. If anyone has any info on the tool or tips for the job please advise. $400 for a tool to use it once is excessive.
 
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Old 10-14-2016, 01:21 PM
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I've never had to do this job but if I was going to, I'd get a haynes or chilton manual. read it. then look on youtube there are tons of vids covering this subject.
then I'd dive in and check the manual and the youtube frequently along the way.

oh and I might also visit a forum like this one and try out the search function and see what pops up.

as I said I've not done this job on this engine but I'm pretty sure you don't need a $400 tool to get it done.
I've done timing belts on a few OHC engines and it's always been possible to make my own tool for locking the cams in place.

nice looking truck, I had a 02 just like it. I miss that truck
 
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Old 10-22-2016, 12:51 AM
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i used visegrips! right between the lobes resting against head the hold the cam from spinning.
 
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:04 AM
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We located a tool online for $150 or 200. The head came off last week. Its back on now. Just need to put the valve cover, coil on plugs, but the harness where it should go. Intake manifold, fuel injectors and button everything back up. Once completed I will do a better write up in this thread with a few pics.


I have never done a head on a 5.4 before. Its been years since I worked on an engine with an overhead cam. Happy this was a 2v not a 3v. It's really not that hard to do. We replaced the head gasket due to a wiked oil leak. It would gush out 1/2 a quart in a minute. Read this was sort of common with the 5.4 on the passenger side due to a high pressure oil port and a bad MLS gasket.
 
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Old 10-26-2016, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jbehuniak
We located a tool online for $150 or 200. The head came off last week. Its back on now. Just need to put the valve cover, coil on plugs, but the harness where it should go. Intake manifold, fuel injectors and button everything back up. Once completed I will do a better write up in this thread with a few pics.


I have never done a head on a 5.4 before. Its been years since I worked on an engine with an overhead cam. Happy this was a 2v not a 3v. It's really not that hard to do. We replaced the head gasket due to a wiked oil leak. It would gush out 1/2 a quart in a minute. Read this was sort of common with the 5.4 on the passenger side due to a high pressure oil port and a bad MLS gasket.
looking forward to the write up.
 
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Old 10-26-2016, 11:02 AM
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The truck is running as of yesterday morning. The owner of the truck did a lot of research prior to opening up the hood for head gasket replacement.
Lessons learned: NEVER trust previous owners

first thing first. Do proper diagnostics of the truck. Get all tools required. The first thing you should buy is the shop manual. Review the procedure in the book many many times. Let it sit in your head so you understand it every step of the way. Then figure out what short cuts you can take!
we started off by removing the battery then the hood
once the good was off the owner of the truck took about 30 pictures. This helped out a lot. 2 weeks after removing a bracket you may forget where it went. Same thing with vacuum hoses etc.
so battery is out, hood is off. Removed battery bracket and windshield washer tank. Removed intake. Drained radiator the hard was. Just so you know there's a plastic **** on the passenger side of the radiator. Drain it from there. Removed the upper coolant hose. There's a few very large connectors above the A/C dryer. We disconnected those too. Removed the wheel and removed the inner fender.
Proceeded to cut off the studs from exhaust manifold to y pipe. We needed to change the manifold while we were doing this.
Then we unfastened the 4 fuel rail bolts and the coil on plug 8 coil on plug bolts. Unbolted the 10? Intake manifold bolts. Realized I needed to remove the alternator before I could get it out. So I removed the serpentine belt and alternator.
We needed to get the timing cover off. To do this unbolt the power steering pump. Take tensioner off idler pulley off. 4 oil pan bolts front valve cover bolts harmonic balancer water pump and fan off.
We needed to hit the fan bolt with the air chisel to get it off.
Mobile web site is screwed right now. Will try to upload pics and continue later
 
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