Need quick help
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach
Need quick help
Hey y'all, so I'm new to the diesel community and got a question. My 04 PS is blown white smoke constantly while running. I just towed a uHaul from Connecticut to Virginia Beach and had some coolant issues on the drive down (I was out of coolant on 95 in PA, added coolant and it made the rest of the drive no problem). I got here to Virginia and it was low on coolant again. I added coolant to it, and now I have some other issues. I have what looks like oil comin out the stacks onto the bed, so I pulled the turbo thinking it was seals. But the turbo was just rebuilt prior to me buying it with a wicked wheel in it. It still has stock EGR and it has 202K on it. I'm lost, is an EGR Delete the best route, or should I go for head gaskets? Please help guys, this is my daily driver and I need to get her back up and running before I report to my next command early next month. Thanks.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,331
Likes: 341
From: Breckenridge, TX
Don't rip everything apart quite yet. Pull the EGR valve and see if it's wet. If yes, replace/delete the EGR cooler. It's worth checking the oil cooler at the same time since EGR coolers don't just die of their own accord.
How you set for a scanner or gauges?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html
After that, t into the deareation line into the degas bottle, and and check the pressure of the cooling system. <16psig, no headgaskets yet until more symptoms occur.
The oil in the exhaust might just be really nasty coolant mixing with the soot and drying out, coolant is tacky on its own.
How you set for a scanner or gauges?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html
After that, t into the deareation line into the degas bottle, and and check the pressure of the cooling system. <16psig, no headgaskets yet until more symptoms occur.
The oil in the exhaust might just be really nasty coolant mixing with the soot and drying out, coolant is tacky on its own.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 2
From: Southern Cal
To Bryan's point, look towards the egr. Losing that much coolant means it's probably burning it through a cracked egr. You are creating steam through your engine and it won't last long.
You will hydro lock it before long if not fixed.
Don't drive this truck until you diagnose. Nothing worse then bent connecting rods to ruin your day!
Do some research on the 6.0 forum. It's very helpful.
You will hydro lock it before long if not fixed.
Don't drive this truck until you diagnose. Nothing worse then bent connecting rods to ruin your day!
Do some research on the 6.0 forum. It's very helpful.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach
Updates!
Alright, so I pulled the EGR valve and it was wet, so I pull everything apart and installed the EGR Delete kit...now with everything put back together, the truck doesn't want to start. It cranks but doesn't fire. I pulled the codes from my tuner and I got: P0403, P0405, P0683, and P2623. I know P0403 and P0405 are related to EGR but the others I'm at a loss on. The EGR delete kit I bought included the blank to remove the valve but what do I do with the plug that used to plug into it? Any ideas for the way forward to get the truck back up and runnin again? Thanks for the help.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,331
Likes: 341
From: Breckenridge, TX
Sorry for the delay, I've been out of town.
P0683 means the GPCM isn't hooked back up right, the wiring is messed up, or it's dead. Either way if you unplug/clean the connections and hook it back up, likely not the cause of a no-start on it's own and it can wait. It's the silver box with black and green 4-prong plugs on the front of the passenger valve cover.
P2623 means the IPR is stuck open, probably either debris or it's just dead. To get to it without removing the turbo is a trick, you need a special socket (link below), to remove the degas bottle and maybe the FICM and thread the socket back there. Pull the IPR, a test it. Without a scan tool the best way is to apply 12V to the solenoid, it should audibly click. If it doesn't either disassemble and clean it, or replace it.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-68210-S.../dp/B0057Y5EFK
P0683 means the GPCM isn't hooked back up right, the wiring is messed up, or it's dead. Either way if you unplug/clean the connections and hook it back up, likely not the cause of a no-start on it's own and it can wait. It's the silver box with black and green 4-prong plugs on the front of the passenger valve cover.
P2623 means the IPR is stuck open, probably either debris or it's just dead. To get to it without removing the turbo is a trick, you need a special socket (link below), to remove the degas bottle and maybe the FICM and thread the socket back there. Pull the IPR, a test it. Without a scan tool the best way is to apply 12V to the solenoid, it should audibly click. If it doesn't either disassemble and clean it, or replace it.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-68210-S.../dp/B0057Y5EFK
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