Hey guys, got the idea from another forum as a way for us FTE guys to share tips and tricks on the Fitech go EFI systems. Please list your engine combo, truck, Fitech system, settings and any adjustments or issues you are having. I'll go first :

77 F-150 2wd long bed c6 trans
.030" over 400, Aussie closed chamber Cleveland heads, 10.25:1 compression, comp XE 262 cam, edelbrock performer intake, Hedman long tubes and 2.5" duals. 15" idle vacuum

Go EFI 600 setup controlling timing with a modified stock duraspark distributor.

Initial setup :

407 ci (wont accept 408), cam setting has been 2 but now trying 3 due to a lean tip-in issue. Rev limit 6,000, idle speed 800.

I had to turn up the base idle screw a bit to get the proper amount of IAC counts at idle (9). I had to change the vacuum settings for decel fuel cutoff due to lower vacuum and harshness returning on the throttle after decel.

I have raised my accel pump function for all conditions but was into the 40s and still having lean tip in after decel. I'm now trying cam setting 3 and reset the fuel learn to see what that does. I also upped the IAC step settings due to slow return to idle and too much drop in rpm while going into gear.

I'll edit later with my timing advance settings bit it's pretty aggressive with idle timing in the low 20s advancing up to about 36 total.

Ok base timing is at 12; "VR advance 4000" is set at 15.8 because it won't accept 16. This is a correction factor for the lag of the distributor signal which u check and adjust by holding rpm at 4000 and checking with a timing light.

Idle timing is at 24
45kpa settings as follows, rpm: timing

1100 : 24
3000 : 36
6000 : 33

WOT timing

1100 : 30
3000 : 36
6000 : 32.3

I've also played with crank fueling a bit, truck cranks a bit too long for my liking when cold; not satisfied yet so I won't post my numbers

 

WARNING - This will be long winded...


The truck is a Mutt, but that has no bearing on the FiTech system. Also, I work a rotational schedule and am away for extended periods of time, so sometimes there are long time periods between when I work on the truck.


74 F100 4x4 Reg Cab Long Bed
Engine: 360FE An older reman that was in the truck when I bought it, so I know nothing about the internals.
FiTech Go EFI 4 600hp
Edelbrock Performer 390 Intake
D.U.I HEI Distributor
Long Tube Headers w/ Dual MagnFlow Mufflers


Fuel System:
In-Tank low pressure pusher pump (spec'ed for an F150/Bronco)
Frame rail high pressure pump (FiTech)
3/8" fuel and return lines


Drivetrain:
Front Axle - HP D44 w/ 3.54 gears
Rear Axle - Sterling 10.25 w/ 3.55 gears
NP435 Manual Transmission
NP205 Transfer Case


Tires:
Summer - 37-12.50R16.5 Military Take-Offs
Winter - R85-16 Buckshot Mudders (studded and siped)


The FiTech:


The install was ok, mine was a little more complex because of things I decided to do regarding the fuel system and the time of year I was working on it. So far, I am not 100% happy with it, but at the same time, I am sure not all of this is the fault of the Fitech unit.


For starters, I was having a heck of a time just getting it to start. Every time I would hit the key, the screen would blackout and no start. FiTech created and sent me a program that would allow the unit to function at lower than normal voltage. I had clean cables and an ok battery. Still no start. I upgraded all my cables and put in a new battery, now she started just, but didn't run worth a crap.


Cold starting was HORRIBLE. I would have to feather the pedal to get it to start and run. Completely unacceptable and negated the whole reason for my getting this system. Many emails and phone calls with Fitech we got it at least starting and running. I cranked the IAC all the way to 197.7 (highest it would go) and that helped a bunch. I added fuel at all the Crank, Afterstart and Warm Up settings. Keep in mind, this poor systems first start up was when the temps were in the single digits, probably not the best time to do this... This darn thing would start and lug at 300-350 RPMs and then go up from there. It seemed thee was no provision to raise the idle during cold starts, which I find very odd


One of the tech's I was talking to thinks the system is starving for more air and he had me open up the 3/8" port on the back and try to start it, low and behold, it started much better, but popped lick heck if the throttle was touched. Here is an excerpt from that email.





This was as of back in March. I ended up working some real long hitches with little to no time off, then was laid off for 3-1/2 months. Not much happened during that time. I could start and move the truck if needed, but no road time yet.


One other thing it does; it fires off, almost dies and then picks back up. I have not figured out is this is more ignition or fuel related.


Recently, I have been toying with the idea of replacing the HEI Distributor with a Duraspark II unit and letting the FiTech control the timing. I have also been reading (a lot) about how the TBI units respond well to a single plane manifold. This started the wheels turning.


I have no plans of ditching the system and will see this through until it runs correctly.


FiTech has been very good with the Tech Support stuff and I think we are just working through problems they have not seen yet, nor really know how to fix yet. For me, this is not a real big issue because I do not rely on the truck for my main transportation (yet...).

 

Wow, my issues seem small in comparison. I did the swap this summer so the coldest I've started the truck in now was high 30s. Mine idles at about 1000 rpm for a few minutes then settles down to 800. Maybe u have a defective IAC motor?

I thought the 4 didn't control timing?

 

The Go EFI 4 I think is just the series. Mine is the 600hp model and has timing control.

I wish mine started at 1000 and settled down to 750-800. I'd be happy as a clam!
Mine seems to do the opposite, it starts low and works up from there. If I don't get it working properly, I'll send it in to be looked at. We'll see.

Good idea on this thread by the way.

 

Her is a little info that was just passed along in an email from FiTech. Not much bearing on my cold start issue, but good information none the less.

 

Good thread guys and great info posted thus far! I'm on the fence for an EFI. I don't *need* one but really like the idea of them, if they work as promised. It looks like
hivoltj is letting the Fitech control timing. Are you doing the same, AK?

I see on FiTech's site they say ignition timing is not learned by the unit. And they say for most ideal optimize timing you should use a dyno. Other than fueling issues is timing the trickiest part of this unit?

I had my distributor re-curved and set with mechanical advance so it's spot on with my current motor. Would I have to monkey with my dizzy if I went with FiTech?

 

I am not currently having the EFI control the timing, but that is soon to change. I ordered a Duraspark II distributor and a Flamethrower coil. Once I get the distributor, I'll need to pull it apart and lock out the timing, vacuum and mechanical. I'm going to give it a shot.

Regarding your distributor, yes, you would have to lock out the timing as well.

I am also going to reset the EFI ECU and let it start learning all over again. When I initially started the system up, it was cold out, below freezing kind of cold. It probably wasn't the best time for a "first start".

Oh well, keep on truck'n.

 

Well if 'stick-to-it-ness' is required I dont doubt that you'll sort it all out. Alaskans are not a weak willed bunch. Thanks for posting that exchange with FiTech regarding issues with starting after the system sits for a period of time. This is one issue with my carbuerator and mechanical pump I was looking to solve with FI.

 

subscribed. hope to be adding this soon

 

Hello all, sorry I missed this thread. I thought I was having trouble until I read this and realized my issues are very small.

I have the Power Adder on a '78 F150
400ci rebuilt with mild cam
stock rebuilt heads
eddlebrock intake
HEI Distributor

I opted for the frame mounted pump as I was doing a frame off and it was easy to get to.

After I first installed the unit I was having odd issued where the truck would fire off fine then the screen would go off and the truck would die like the key was turned off. I read a couple other threads that mentioned a grounding issue as the unit grounds from the mounting studs on the intake. This made sense as the I had yet to do my grounds well. Fixed my grounds and that fixed the cutting off issue.

Unlike you guys I never had a problem with starting and running. From the first start it fired off and only needed a little adjustment on the idle screw. I have never adjusted the settings in the controller, just let it "self learn" and runs great. It actually fires off so fast that I some times have a hard time getting off the key and it will drag the starter for a second. Even if we dont start the truck for a week it only cranks for maybe 2 seconds at most before it starts. I have added remote start to the truck and that works well.

Ok, here are the issues I had.
1. I added a new AC system and a 2 speed Mark Viii fan controlled by a Volvo 2 speed rely on a 4 core Champion radiator. I got the power adder just for the ability to control 2 fans. Well, I would go in and set my “Temp On” and “Temp Off” settings for the fan and hit “Send to ECU” at the bottom of the screen and it would say something like “sent successfully”. Id start to drive and the fan wouldn’t come on and the truck wanted to over heat. I found out that you have to put in the “Temp On” temp and while that is highlighted push the joystick button to send to ECU. Then do the same for “Temp Off”. This actually kept my setting in the ECU and now that is no longer a problem. The AC control works perfect. When the AC is turned on it bumps up the RPMs a little and kicks on the low speed fan.

2. The screen inside keeps turning off and rebooting while driving but does not affect the engine at all. Tech support says its because the power cable isn’t connected properly. Im not the brightest bulb but I know how to plug the outie into the innie. Only happens now and then. If it gets worse Ill send it back.

3. My main issue and its not an issue yet is the fuel pump. It says to mount below the tank and as close as possible. This wasn’t very easy. Also, I have to fab a pickup system and after some trial and error I went with Hollys HydroMat and I have about 2.5 feet from the mat to the tank. The truck runs great but the pump is really sound and sounds like it might be having cavitation although there is no sign of that while driving. Tonight I pulled out the pre filter that came with the kit as the HydroMat is also a pre filter. I thought maybe there was too much restriction with 2 filters. Took it for a drive and it sounds the same. Do any of you with the frame mounted pump have the same issue?





Pump, pre filter






HydroMat




Used the stock pick up tube as the return.

 

I'm not a fan of external pumps and that is exactly why. you need to get it below the lowest point of the tank, even if that means leaving the safety of the frame rail. you could try temporarily hanging it lower with some zip ties and if that helps then build a bracket

 

Getting closer to firing up the FiTech. Its installed on the engine. The painless harness is almost finished too. I have the 38Gal tank 50% prepped for the FiTech. I have the Tanks inc 255lph 100psi pump to go on the tank. My truck has no evap/ charcoal canister so I am using the EEC hole on the top to mount the tanks inc pump and pickup.
I will be running a MSD 8577 and will lock out the mechanical. I think the plug will work with the FiTECH plug. I have the 600HP unit.
I have the O2 sensor hooked up VIA hose clamp right now. I will weld it when my buddy is done with my welder.


Questions:
Are you using the yellow fan wire to trigger the electric fan relay?
Should I use the FiTECH fuel pump wire to trigger the fuel pump relay or should I use the painless wire?
Engine is a high-compression 460. It has trickflow heads and an edelbrock performer RPM intake dual plane manifold? What were they saying about running a single plane vs dual plane manifolds? Should I change this?


I will be doing first start and break in mid Jan early Feb. It will be cold and I hope I don't run into the same problems as AK Ford Guy.
Tips on breaking in the engine in 20-30 degree weather? I feel like firing off the engine and instantly revving the engine upto 2000 rpm in that cold may cause problems.

 

make sure you are running the proper oil for your bearing clearance and wait for a window of 40-50 degree weather. The msd should plug right in. I use the FiTech fuel pump wore with no issues. fitech says to use whatever manifold you would use with a carb

 

"I am using the EEC hole on the top to mount the tanks inc pump and pickup" Check the clearance between there and the bed. I was going to mount a 90 AN fitting there to use as a pickup but it would have hit the bottom of the bed.

Are you using the yellow fan wire to trigger the electric fan relay? - Yes. I have the power adder unit an have both fan wires going to a Volvo 2 speed relay I got at the junk yard for like $5.

Should I use the FiTECH fuel pump wire to trigger the fuel pump relay or should I use the painless wire? - I would use the wire off of the FiTech. Also, I believe that wire is already coming off of an internal relay. Instructions have you connect it directly to the pump, not to a relay first.

What were they saying about running a single plane vs dual plane manifolds? Should I change this? - Dont have a clue! Ha.. Sorry.

When you first go to fire it off, make sure the engine is grounded back to the battery well or youll have issues. When I first fired mine off I didn't have all the grounds in properly and It would run great one min the die the next. The system gets its ground from the studs on the manifold. You can run a ground directly to one of the studs just to be sure. Also, make sure the battery is FULLY charged. If the battery isnt above 12v, the engine will fire off then die. I couldn't figure out why this was happening at first. The battery had enough juice to turn over and then would fire off and instantly die. This was because the battery was being dropped down below 12v while cranking which was causing the computer to shut off and die. Charged the battery and no more issues.

All in all, still very happy with the FI Tech. Im going to go to an in-tank pump and Ill be really happy.

Good luck!

 

Well guys, I had enough with the external pump...

Darn external fuel pump. This FiTech Fuel pump makes all kinds of noise and I see voltage drops in conjunction with the variable noise. Sounds like its having cavitation. This fuel system has been a huge pain in the butt since day one. So, I decided to buy an internal pump and fabricate an access panel in the tank.

Hope to have it installed tomorrow. Fingers crossed that it doesnt leak!..

New tank.


Cut access port.


Fabracated frame.


Welded all around.



Now the pump its perfectly in the recess.


Im using the old pickup tube as the return.



Sealed and bolted down.