67 f100 352 build
#1
67 f100 352 build
Finally getting back to my truck after ten years of sitting, truck has ifs and four link rear, locker and wanting to probably throw a t5 behind it, the stock 352 ram quite well but tore down and ready to build it up, haven't really been reading much on it lately so no real up on what builds are good, I'm hoping for close to 400 hp, I've seen some stroker motors and am intrigued, what are your guy's thoughts on a good game plan
#2
I think you will find the T5 to be short lived behind this motor in a truck.
400 horse from a 352 can be done, but you will be seeing that power at higher revs. Lumpy hydraulic roller cam, premium fuel compression ratio (9.5 to 10ish), headers, Performer RPM or other fine brand upper rev or single plane intake, 750ish carb.
If your block will take a .050 overbore, you can move up to a 390. Just get car pistons, not the low-in-the-hole truck pistons.
Or you can go big:
Survival FE Engine Kits
400 horse from a 352 can be done, but you will be seeing that power at higher revs. Lumpy hydraulic roller cam, premium fuel compression ratio (9.5 to 10ish), headers, Performer RPM or other fine brand upper rev or single plane intake, 750ish carb.
If your block will take a .050 overbore, you can move up to a 390. Just get car pistons, not the low-in-the-hole truck pistons.
Or you can go big:
Survival FE Engine Kits
#3
I have looked at the survival kits and was wondering if anyone has ran them and how practical/ reliable that stroker kit is, I'm deff ok with boring out to a 390 but I would like to keep the original block, I'm looking to spend 5-6 thousand on the build, what kind of blue print has been proving in these engines, What manual Trans has been holding up, I was looking at built t5,
#4
This is a current thread with a 445 build:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...445-build.html
T5s were topped out at about 330 ft/lb rating iirc.
Ford Mustang: Mustang Tech: Transmission and Drivetrain: Borg Warner T5 Transmission data
If you get to 400HP, you will be well over 100 ft/lb above that.
TKO would be the performance trans in the 5 speed flavor, or T56 for one more gear:
Modern Driveline, Inc. - Transmission
As for doing a stroker on the 4.00 or 4.030 bore, I'm not sure. Things get tight at the bottom of the cylinder with the rod, and things get tight up top with bigger valves. Both issues are probably fixable, but you'll have to discuss that with whoever sells you a stroker crank.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...445-build.html
T5s were topped out at about 330 ft/lb rating iirc.
Ford Mustang: Mustang Tech: Transmission and Drivetrain: Borg Warner T5 Transmission data
If you get to 400HP, you will be well over 100 ft/lb above that.
TKO would be the performance trans in the 5 speed flavor, or T56 for one more gear:
Modern Driveline, Inc. - Transmission
As for doing a stroker on the 4.00 or 4.030 bore, I'm not sure. Things get tight at the bottom of the cylinder with the rod, and things get tight up top with bigger valves. Both issues are probably fixable, but you'll have to discuss that with whoever sells you a stroker crank.
#5
#6
If I am reading correctly, I might suggest you look at a different power train package all together. Look at something 2010 or newer.
I am a FE fan, but what you are talking and having to build, why deal with an engine that was dropped 40 years ago. I see some awesome numbers on some of them stang ads.
John
I am a FE fan, but what you are talking and having to build, why deal with an engine that was dropped 40 years ago. I see some awesome numbers on some of them stang ads.
John
#7
If I am reading correctly, I might suggest you look at a different power train package all together. Look at something 2010 or newer.
I am a FE fan, but what you are talking and having to build, why deal with an engine that was dropped 40 years ago. I see some awesome numbers on some of them stang ads.
John
I am a FE fan, but what you are talking and having to build, why deal with an engine that was dropped 40 years ago. I see some awesome numbers on some of them stang ads.
John
I know a few guys have swapped to ecoboosts and other powertrains. But there is something to be said for simple power plants that still get the job done.
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#8
I agree with what CAN be done with an FE but at what comparable cost for the same hp with less weight. I love the 428cj in my Mustang and keep it that way because everything is numbers matching and I'm the original owner. If it was a plain jane mustang you can bet that there'd be a modern mill in it.
#9
I agree with what CAN be done with an FE but at what comparable cost for the same hp with less weight. I love the 428cj in my Mustang and keep it that way because everything is numbers matching and I'm the original owner. If it was a plain jane mustang you can bet that there'd be a modern mill in it.
For me, if I want to drive something 2010 or newer, I go and buy something 2010 or newer. I don't think I'd start with something from 1967.
#11
It's okay, jowilker. I don't think you need to apologize for starting the side bar on scrapping the FE for a 2010 or newer power train. I was probably too focused on brainstorming ideas for a 352 build. Fordss2003 seems to want to pep up a 352 so I focused in on that and wasn't thinking about dropping the old FE until you mentioned it.
#12
Fordss2003,
Today, there are tons of options for building an FE. When I decided it was time to freshen up my FE, I spent a lot of time searching for a reputable builder. And that's the single best recommendation I have for anyone even if you want to do most of the work yourself. There are a few highly experienced guys around the country that do excellent work and will do as little or as much work on your engine as you want. For instance, you may just want a short block and a cam recommendation or maybe you want a set of aluminum heads, etc. Their experience will get you to the engine build you want much faster with less grief and likely less money in the long run.
Today, there are tons of options for building an FE. When I decided it was time to freshen up my FE, I spent a lot of time searching for a reputable builder. And that's the single best recommendation I have for anyone even if you want to do most of the work yourself. There are a few highly experienced guys around the country that do excellent work and will do as little or as much work on your engine as you want. For instance, you may just want a short block and a cam recommendation or maybe you want a set of aluminum heads, etc. Their experience will get you to the engine build you want much faster with less grief and likely less money in the long run.
#13
I know the trend these days is taking an old car or truck and putting a modern computerized fuel injected engine and drive tran in so one has a classic automobile with all the modern conveniences.
When ever I look at a old car and see a modern engine all covered up with some custom plastic or billet panel trying to cover up all the wiring and fuel rails I walk away disappointed.
I've always looked at the paint and wheels as the cool factor and the engine as the wow factor, can't get better wow than a mulity carbed or blown big block
Modern engines can make more power and get better fuel mileage but just don't have the WOW factor of a neatly dressed older engine.
I'll never give up my 406 FE with three Holley carbs for the modern convenience of computerized fuel injection.
When ever I look at a old car and see a modern engine all covered up with some custom plastic or billet panel trying to cover up all the wiring and fuel rails I walk away disappointed.
I've always looked at the paint and wheels as the cool factor and the engine as the wow factor, can't get better wow than a mulity carbed or blown big block
Modern engines can make more power and get better fuel mileage but just don't have the WOW factor of a neatly dressed older engine.
I'll never give up my 406 FE with three Holley carbs for the modern convenience of computerized fuel injection.
#14
I know the trend these days is taking an old car or truck and putting a modern computerized fuel injected engine and drive tran in so one has a classic automobile with all the modern conveniences.
When ever I look at a old car and see a modern engine all covered up with some custom plastic or billet panel trying to cover up all the wiring and fuel rails I walk away disappointed.
I've always looked at the paint and wheels as the cool factor and the engine as the wow factor, can't get better wow than a mulity carbed or blown big block
Modern engines can make more power and get better fuel mileage but just don't have the WOW factor of a neatly dressed older engine.
I'll never give up my 406 FE with three Holley carbs for the modern convenience of computerized fuel injection.
When ever I look at a old car and see a modern engine all covered up with some custom plastic or billet panel trying to cover up all the wiring and fuel rails I walk away disappointed.
I've always looked at the paint and wheels as the cool factor and the engine as the wow factor, can't get better wow than a mulity carbed or blown big block
Modern engines can make more power and get better fuel mileage but just don't have the WOW factor of a neatly dressed older engine.
I'll never give up my 406 FE with three Holley carbs for the modern convenience of computerized fuel injection.
Amen to the 3rd power. I would love to see the results on dyno after OP gets done with the build
#15
Update on old tread
So I decided to go ahead bore the 352 out to std 390 and survival 445 kit Edelbrock heads intake, msd ignition and efi tub setup, behind that is a tko500 and it’s an awesome setup, she fires up instantly and is a blast to hear, soon I will be taking her out for a spin thanks for the help