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I just realized that, at 110,000 miles, I still have my original brakes. Anyone else? And is this normal? I have no idea what the change out time typically is for pads, but she still stops great, no dust, and no noise.
I sold my '99 7.3L at 91,000 miles with the original brakes. Would have had the original tires too, but the sidewalls were looking pretty rotty. Plenty of tread though.
I had 68K on mine when I replaced and they still had plenty of pad left but I went ahead and had them changed out.
The dealer told me that the computer needs to be updated for the ABS when changing pads. Does anyone know needs to be updated and if that is a true statement?
I had 68K on mine when I replaced and they still had plenty of pad left but I went ahead and had them changed out.
The dealer told me that the computer needs to be updated for the ABS when changing pads. Does anyone know needs to be updated and if that is a true statement?
I replaced both front and rear at 48K, fronts needed replacement and rears were 75% worn. Dealer is pulling your chain, no updates needed.
At my last oil change (dealer of course) the Tech told me that my brakes measured as new. 25,000 miles on mine and I am very easy on the brakes and drive like a grandpa. He said that my tires we at 80%.
My last F150 stopped having front brakes at 20,000 miles. I don't think that I'm over that yet, another reason to not drive an F150.
Bruce - Reminds me of my jap cars that the brakes need replacing every 15k to 20k miles. Of course when you saw the postage stamp sized pads you understood why...
Never had a super duty long enough to do the brakes. Always looked perfect with plenty of meat on the pads up to trade in time. I will need tires this time due to the "roads" I drive up here wearing the 20" tires out quicker than my 18" wore out on smoother roads...
My 2011 needed brakes at 85,000+/- miles And I did need new caliper and rotor. The caliper had frozen up. Remember to grease those caliper pins.
I tow a lot and I live in Utah with lots of canyon and elevation change. So I expect more brake wear than folks that don't tow or that drive flat roads
Right there with ya Jon. I'm at 88,000ish right now and have a pile of brake parts waiting in the garage for me to install in the next few weeks. Large fifth wheel and numerous other trailers along with mild off road use.
As a side note, I do clean and grease my caliper slides with my annual brake inspection, flush fluid every other. This will allow the caliper to last until the rubber bits rot off.
Tech Note: If you have to pay somebody to do this you'll spend way more on maintenance than the cost of just replacing a seized caliper. I'd cut it down to a fluid flush every so often.
Always a good idea to maintain the caliper slides, but caliper pistons will sometimes stick also. I got a fresh set of reman calipers from the local Ford dealer and one of the calipers had sticky pistons that wouldn't release when I took my foot off the brake. For that reason, I check my hub temps regularly.
Right there with ya Jon. I'm at 88,000ish right now and have a pile of brake parts waiting in the garage for me to install in the next few weeks. Large fifth wheel and numerous other trailers along with mild off road use.
As a side note, I do clean and grease my caliper slides with my annual brake inspection, flush fluid every other. This will allow the caliper to last until the rubber bits rot off.
Tech Note: If you have to pay somebody to do this you'll spend way more on maintenance than the cost of just replacing a seized caliper. I'd cut it down to a fluid flush every so often.
Chad,
How are you greasing the slides? Are you pulling the wheel/calipers off to do that? Or is there some secret method? For me, that's just too much preventative maintenance. Now with that said, when it is time to do pads/rotors, I'll usually go get reman'd calipers too, and just replace the whole works while I am in there. Calipers may not need replacing, but over the years, I've elected to re-use them on various vehicles, only to get them torn down, and find out I needed them anyway(I hate going to the store more than once), or a short time later they failed anyway.
As for changing out the fluid, are you able to use a power bleeder? I bought one a year or so ago, but haven't gotten around to using it yet.
Chad,
How are you greasing the slides? Are you pulling the wheel/calipers off to do that? Or is there some secret method? For me, that's just too much preventative maintenance. Now with that said, when it is time to do pads/rotors, I'll usually go get reman'd calipers too, and just replace the whole works while I am in there. Calipers may not need replacing, but over the years, I've elected to re-use them on various vehicles, only to get them torn down, and find out I needed them anyway(I hate going to the store more than once), or a short time later they failed anyway.
As for changing out the fluid, are you able to use a power bleeder? I bought one a year or so ago, but haven't gotten around to using it yet.
You have to pull calipers to grease the slides. But doing this allows me to check the pads for cracking too. My experience is on the reman calipers the rubber bits don't have the quality and don't last nearly as long. But if your getting them from a chain store they generally have a lifetime warranty anyways.
I do have a power bleeder, but it pressurizes the master and pushes fluid thru, not vacuum at the bleed screw style (not sure which you have).
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