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Shouldn't cause this.
But did you put the rear shoes on right? There is a front and a back location for them. Both sides can be easily swapped without knowing.
When I put them on I just put them back how they came off. Then I realized the smaller shoe was on the front, I always thought the bigger one was in front. I read several posts that stated the smaller goes on front. So thats how it is?
Ok another update. I plugged the rear port on the master. This made the brake pedal firm it did not go to the floor. So all rear lines got blew out then bled. Still soft after reconnecting rear lines.
So for grins I blocked off the front port on the master. This also made the brake pedal firm and it did not go to the floor.
I am thinking this narrows it down to the master or booster. Any thoughts?
I had a truck in for brake work, I went through 4 master cylinders before getting a good one. now for me it is motorcraft new all the time.
I also get the master cylinder for the F SUPERDUTY it is a larger bore and moves more fluid.
slight modification to install, clamp in vice and using a round file elongate the mounting holes inward.
I had a truck in for brake work, I went through 4 master cylinders before getting a good one. now for me it is motorcraft new all the time.
I also get the master cylinder for the F SUPERDUTY it is a larger bore and moves more fluid.
slight modification to install, clamp in vice and using a round file elongate the mounting holes inward.
I just order for '97 Fsuperduty with cruise control, even if I don't need the cruise de activation switch. there is a new post tb switch installed in the master.
looked through my documents for part number and I haven't saved it, i just call ford parts and have them run a 97 F superduty
I just order for '97 Fsuperduty with cruise control, even if I don't need the cruise de activation switch. there is a new post tb switch installed in the master.
looked through my documents for part number and I haven't saved it, i just call ford parts and have them run a 97 F superduty
Thanks helifixer, I suppose my next step is to re-replace the master. I have been warned about "A1 Cardone" parts. As soon as I get another new master on there I will give an update.
Thanks helifixer, I suppose my next step is to re-replace the master. I have been warned about "A1 Cardone" parts. As soon as I get another new master on there I will give an update.
I started taking the failed master cylinders apart before I sent them back for warranty and all that i took apart had machining shavings in them. doomed from the begining
Okay so we put a zero loss booster on and changed out the master again. Nothing. I get more pedal travel on the front brakes when bleeding. The pedal only travels about half the distance on back. WHAT THE HECK!!!!!!
Here is an update. Been changing out master cylinders with no avail. My son finally took the original master apart along with a new one from the orielly store. What did we find?
Everything on it is smaller, the bore, the springs, the reservoir. WHAT THE HECK!!!!
You think you could have been getting the auto version and needed the manual or vice versa? If I am thinking correctly (only one and a half cups of coffee in), they are different and not necessarily interchangeable.
I see where I should wrote up the out come to my brake issue that kicked my but so bad.
Clamping the soft brake lines tell where the issue is....
1. with all the brake lines clamped if the petal is soft and goes to the floor the issue is in the master cylinder...try re bleeding the master cylinder
Once the brake petal is hard with all lines pinched off and the engine running the booster and master cylinder are good.
remove the right front c clamp and test the petal again......if it goes soft then you have air in the line. if it is hard replace the c-clamp go to the left front and do the same.
Some where there is air in the brake line.
I had air in the front calibers...they will suck air in and still not leak fluid.
I replaced everything you have and still had a soft petal........used 2 qts. of brake fluid....and still was soft with help bleeding the brakes.
I brought the truck home let it set for a few days then did a one person bleed. 2 more qts. I ran one pint of fluid through each wheel and rabs
I wound up pushing the brake petal very slowly to the floor and even slower letting it back up. I did that for one full day then 1/2 day. Very slow procedure, I finished bleeding the last wheel late in the afternoon. The I went back out the next morning, started the truck ............low and behold I had a full petal and hard as a rock
Stops great with no pulling or grabbing
They are a BEACH to bleed and want to hold air bubbles in those steel lines
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