Replacing the track bar bracket frame mount on my truck. Cannot find the torque specs for the life of me. Really dont want this fallin off. . . I found the specs for the 30mm bolt holding the track bar to the bracket (369 lb ft).

Does anyone know the specs? Please and thank you!

 

Gudentite. There prolly is a spec, but this is not a critical application. Use the right tool and crank it down proper for the size and grade of bolt.

Most folks don't even have a torque wrench to do 396 ft lbs.

 

You could also use a thread locking compound on the bolts. 396 lb-ft is absurd.

 

Wow 369 FT LBS you better pack a lunch trying to get that torque.

 

Actually it's not as hard as one would think. A 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 5' pipe on it and 80 lbs of my butt sitting on it will render 400 ft lbs.

 

Yeah, so someone misquoted that (369), it is actually 129.

So you guys think Im good to just crank it down?

 

I've had to pull mine twice. I didn't have a horse leg (3/4" drive) and cheater bar so I just ran the pneumatic driver until it didn't turn any more. Haven't had any issues over the last 6 years with it.

 

I agree with all of the above. Just get it tight and use a thread locking compound if you are worried about it coming loose. I will say, I have never seen one come loose though. The bolts are pretty stout, so putting some muscle into it should not hurt them.

 

Alright guys thank you much. Ive got a different issue now, the track rod is stuck in the bracket. . . new bracket was a little snug on the bushing so I took a grinder to it, finally got it to where I could hammer it into the first hole (bracket is for a 4 inch or 6 inch lift, 2 different holes depending on how high your going with it). Got it stuck halfway between the 2 holes. (Pics soon I gotta charge my phone). If I take a piece of pipe and a jack and use the jack to push the pipe up into the bracket, it wont budge the rod at all. Just starts lifting the truck up. I cant really get a good angle to knock it down so I can grind some more off of it :/ Guess Ill have to drop the bracket and see if thatll do it.

 

Kinda hard to tell but you can see part of the bushing in the top hole there.

Yes, I attempted to use gear grease. . .

 

I have been to that point that something is either stuck or there's no travel left so all I'm doing is jacking the truck instead of lining things up. I don't know hard it's stuck but I've used different sized prybars, ratchet straps and a dead blow hammer in various combinations to coax parts to line up. I didn't start using ratchet tie-down straps until recently and they are very useful under the truck.

 

Is that the Fabtech drop track bar bracket? I had the same issue when installing mine. The track bar bracket tapers in slightly towards the passenger's side so you'll need to pull the axle towards the driver's side using a come-along or a heavy duty ratchet strap. Once you get the track bar moved more towards the driver's side, you should be able to move the track bar vertically with minimal effort.

 

Im not sure if its Fabtech, it came with my lift kit.

Pull the axle towards the front bumper or towards the drivers door? I may be able to steal some straps from work.

I dont think its out of moving room, I think the bracket is slightly smaller up there. I already had to grind a good bit off of the bushing to get it to even fit. Maybe If I unbolt the trackbar from the U plate I can get it worked into the bracket, then getting it back on the U plate would be a little easier than trying to get it in the bracket? Or maybe drop the bracket and get the rod in there, then bolt the bracket to the frame?

 

I thing weeeves is saying to move the axle sideways to line up the bar with the bolt eye.

I've got the OEM track bar and it is a PITA to line up. The first time was a nightmare as I had no idea what I was getting into or how to attack it. I was changing my front springs (snapped a leaf) and could not line them up to the axle without unbolting the track bar from the frame.

The second time I was prepared (snapped another leaf). Used two floor jacks (one on each side of the axle) and two ratchet straps. Once I had maneuvered the track bar into the mount and got as close as I could get it with the floor jacks (the truck started to lift too instead of just the axle) I went to phase 2...the ratchet straps. IIRC the first strap went around the axle tube and through a hole in the crossmember for pulling the axle up and the other went around the axle and the frame at the wheel well (slipped the strap between the fender liner and frame and around the frame) to pull to the side. Every few ratchet clicks and I would tap the bar with a dead blow to help guide it into place. I was within 1/2 inch or so from lining it up so it didn't take too much ratchet work to line up the bar with the hole. The bolt went through easily after than and I pneumatically gronked it down.

It sounds pretty haphazard but it worked. The first time took me a couple of hours (with some friends) to get it done and the second time took me about 20 minutes (and that was all due to the ratchet straps).

 

Move the axle towards the driver's door. The Fabtech track bar brackets gets narrower when the track bar is pushed over towards the passenger's side, which is what's happening in your case. I'm sure you've already got this covered, but make sure you've got your truck supported on jack stands at the frame rails to remove the weight at the axle and then support the axle with a floor jack.

It's a tight fit, but you should be able to get the holes aligned with just a few taps using a hammer once you get the axle moved over.

It was late last night when I posted, but forget using a ratchet strap. It takes quite a bit of force to move the axle over so use a heavy duty come-along or puller/cable/chains. I used a puller rated for 2,000 lbs and it bent one of the hooks. Thank god it didn't snap or I could have been seriously injured.