I have an 85' F250 with a 460. Here is my problem...yesterday, my truck died a couple of times, would start back up, and run for a very short time. I checked to make sure the fuel pumps were working, and they were. I had plenty of fuel.

I decided to check the fuses, and the 15 amp warning lamp fuse was blown. I replaced it, the truck ran fine for a while, and then died again. The same fuse was again torched.

The bowls are filling up with fuel, but the fuel pumps seem to disengage when the vehicle is in "run" mode.

Any ideas what is going on here?

 

the fuel pump should only be running just after you hit the key on and when the engine is running. it should turn itself off when the engine is not running because of the oil pressure switch. kind of sounds electrical to me. you might after is shuts off use a test lgiht see if you have power to the coil if you have power to the duraspark module all that stuff that would be in a repair manual under not starting check this.

 

I'm thinking I have a bare wire somewhere that is causing a short. Will be checking that in a couple.

 

I have a problem almost like this.. but here's mine..

Battery wont hold charge anymore. I have to jump start it...
I had the alternator checked out and it was 14volts strong...
I've checked all the electrical under neath the truck..
I ran a test light on everything and cant find anything...
I've replaced Battery, Control Mod, Starter Silanoid (sp?)....
I had the starter checked out to, and it was perfect.

I dont know what the problem is.. The alternator seems to be charging the battery because I can cut the truck off after jumping it, and can let it set for like 10 minutes and it'll start back up, if I try it in 15-20 minutes, the truck wont start back up.. I had no problem before but then this happen. I wish I knew what was going on....

My speedometer doesnt work either, and its all attached and everything. I have a 1981 F100 Pickup

 

rem8128 - I just read elsewhere here that the alternator could have a bad diode that drains off the battery (when the key is off), even though it charges at 14V. the guys recommended disconnecting the alternator after you turn the motor off, and then see if you hold a charge. the other thing is your battery could be just plain dead.

 

rem8128 - I just read elsewhere here that the alternator could have a bad diode that drains off the battery (when the key is off), even though it charges at 14V. the guys recommended disconnecting the alternator after you turn the motor off, and then see if you hold a charge. you have a shorted somewhere

 

Rem8182,

when you say you used a test light on everything. what do you mean? Pull your negative battery cable from the negative battery post and stick the test light in line. If the light comes on, then you have a drain. If not, suspect the battery in your case.

If it won't start after 15 minutes of starting, you have a huge drain (and you'll definately notice with your test light) or your battery is shot.

 

I havent put the test light in line, but I've went to every connection and tried the light... It's either somewhere behind the dash, or its what you guys are saying... This is like the 3rd battery I ahve tried.

 

I just went out in my truck and tried what you said.

Put test light on neg battery with key off = light not on
Put test light on neg battery with key on = light on

Put test light on pos battery with key off = light not on
Put test light on pos battery with key on = light on


What should I try next?? I really need to get this fixed as my friend wants to trade me his 89 S10 Blazer

 

rem8128 - Check to make sure your alternator belt is tight. If it is and shows 13-14 volts, then I'd have to say you have a battery problem.

Where are you getting your batteries?

 

As far as your problem team green, You obviously do have a short somewheres if you keep blowing fuses. I'm not sure what the warning lamp fuse would have to do with this without looking at a schematic in my Haynes manual (which I don't have with me cause I'm at work). Maybe some else can look this up, if not, I'll try to look tonight if I get a chance.

 

That fuse looks like it's primary job is for the the headlight switch and the instrument panel and there are a couple of fuseable links (grn & org) that are tied in for the instrument cluster and ignition switch.

The green fusable link ties into the the ignition switch's battery pin. Maybe you have a blown fuseable link??? But if the fuseable link was blown, that wouldn't allow the 15 amp fuse to pop, would it guys?

I need a second opinion fellas. I've never run into something like this.

 

I have been searching high and low for a bare wire, but nothing. I am getting the electrical schematics and will see what exactly is running off that fuse. Hopefully that will give me some answers. If anybody can add to nzadka's help, let me know.

 

Team Green

I have the same problem with the warning lamp 15 amp fuse blowing, did you ever solve the problem or find a bare wire, Would like some help on this one!

 

Check the date on the thread, team green has been inactive since 04