No fuel injector pulse
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2016
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*Update* I pulled and cleaned the injectors. all of them spray if I directly ground it. I also put new orings on them. I have great fuel pressure, will start then die off ether. If I plug in the temp. sender then the injector pulse goes away when I unplug it the pulse comes back.
My thoughts are that the computer may be bad. The computer may be reading the engine as flooded. I do not have any codes. Any ideas?
My thoughts are that the computer may be bad. The computer may be reading the engine as flooded. I do not have any codes. Any ideas?
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2016
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OK, so I had a spare map sensor so I swapped it in. Now it will kick like it wants to start every few seconds. I have strong fuel injector pulse and extremely good spark. The sender also now has no effect on pulse. I set timing where the rotor is pointing to no one spark plug at 10 degrees BTDC with the spout connector out. Now when I turn it over with the spout in the timing shows up 10 degrees ATDC. Any ideas guys? Also it will not start off starting fluid now 
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2016
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The dampers fine. The truck will sometimes act like its about to start, usually after I connect my fuel pressure gauge. Its acting like its out of time or has a massive vacuum leak. Ive checked both of those out and they seem fine. Does anyone know of step by step how to time this? Do I set it where the rotor points to 1st cylinder wire when the crankshaft is set at TDC or 10degrees BTDC ?
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Freshman User
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IT RUNS !!!! I set the timing to be about 20degrees BTDC because the computer kept adjusting it back 10 degrees no matter what I did. Now it runs fairly well but I would still like to know why it keeps moving it back.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
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From: Rhode Island
How do you know know the damper is fine? They will give no visual indication they have spun.
Either something is very wrong with your computer, or your crank damper has spun on the rubber and your timing isn't where you think it is.
Either something is very wrong with your computer, or your crank damper has spun on the rubber and your timing isn't where you think it is.
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Freshman User
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How do you check to see that it is bad without swapping parts? I tried to search for it on the internet but can't find anything.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
You have to find true TDC by other means, then verify the crank damper is at the 0* mark.
One way to do it is to put a screwdriver or something into the #1 cylinder spark plug hole, and slowly turn the engine until the screwdriver is at its furthest point out. However that's not super accurate since there is a couple of degrees of "dwell" near TDC where you can move the crank with no appreciable change in piston position.
One way to do it is to put a screwdriver or something into the #1 cylinder spark plug hole, and slowly turn the engine until the screwdriver is at its furthest point out. However that's not super accurate since there is a couple of degrees of "dwell" near TDC where you can move the crank with no appreciable change in piston position.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,668
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
It sounds like you are not using a timing light.
Just eye balling the 10*BTDC with the engine not running will not set the timing right.
You need to get it started with the spout out and then adjust it to 10*BTDC with a timing light with it running. With the hold down bolt torqued down make sure it is still at 10*BTDC with the timing light and it running.
Then put the spout back in and make sure the timing marks have moved with the engine running.
Just eye balling the 10*BTDC with the engine not running will not set the timing right.
You need to get it started with the spout out and then adjust it to 10*BTDC with a timing light with it running. With the hold down bolt torqued down make sure it is still at 10*BTDC with the timing light and it running.
Then put the spout back in and make sure the timing marks have moved with the engine running.
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