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For annual Utah safety check, I am being required to replace my three block 4" rear lift with a single 4" block. Does anyone know what taper if any is required, and what size pin it takes? Also, who might sell the least pricey blocks. Of course I already have the U-bolts. Thank you. (I bought it last year in Arizona, and the prior owner had the 3 block lift and no mud flaps. I installed flaps to pass, but the safety guy told me "I'll let you slide this year, but next year you'll have to have a single rear lift block)
Can you supply a picture? I only ask because the 4X4 EX came with a 2"-ish stock block and you are saying that you have 3 blocks equaling a total of 4", does it have 2 1" blocks, or is the perch on the axle being incorrectly counted as a block which sometimes happens.
I run the stock F-350 tapered blocks under my modded B codes and that has worked our well for me but I do not know the amount of taper/angle on those blocks.
Thank you for the replies.
The top block seems like it's the stock block, about 2" tall with a "bottom out stop" sticking out on the inboard side, then there are 2 @ 1" aluminum blocks sandwiched below that block and above the bracket that is stock welded to the axle. I can find 4" blocks, but they come in various tapers and pin sizes. I'm just trying to figure out what taper and pin size I'll need.
Thank you very much.
The top block seems like it's the stock block, about 2" tall with a "bottom out stop" sticking out on the inboard side, then there are 2 @ 1" aluminum blocks sandwiched below that block and above the bracket that is stock welded to the axle.
I used a non tapered 5 inch block that was actually 5 3/4 tall with the tang or bump stop ear. The guy who installed it stacked the old 2 and a half inch block on top. I asked him why when I picked the X up. He said the instructions said to do that.
The block was 3 inch wide and 7 inch long. Don't get the ones with a narrow width or length. The oem block is 3 wide and 7 long by 2.3 inch tall.
My X *** sits 45.6 tall verses the front at 42.6. Not really noticeable. I hung a 5000 rv on the back and it barely dropped the rear.
I don't think the long wheel base needs tapered blocks. You can get them but don't get those shims. Shims will slip out. The block I got was with a 5/8 pin and both blocks locked together so will not shift or slip.
I'm thinking of going with the 4 inch pro comp rear springs and the oem block in the future.
I don't think the long wheel base needs tapered blocks.
The Excursion doesn't have a long wheel-base. The short wheel-base of the F-series truck (which the Excursion matches), uses tapered blocks. The long wheel-base F-series trucks use a no-taper block for the MY's in question.
I can tell you that 1 1/2" flat blocks on top of the stock rear bump stop blocks will cause the pinion angle to be way off and it will vibrate starting at 55mph, stop at 68 and start again at 85mph. Mine came like that and I'm removing those this afternoon.
The Excursion doesn't have a long wheel-base. The short wheel-base of the F-series truck (which the Excursion matches), uses tapered blocks. The long wheel-base F-series trucks use a no-taper block for the MY's in question.
Stewart
Do the short wheel base F-trucks use a 1 piece drive shaft ?
The Excursion doesn't have a long wheel-base. The short wheel-base of the F-series truck (which the Excursion matches), uses tapered blocks. The long wheel-base F-series trucks use a no-taper block for the MY's in question.
Stewart
I wasn't referring to the longest or shortest wheel base. Simply, the long wheel base of the excursion. But thanks for pointing that out
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