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I have a 2000 Ranger 4x4 with a 3.0L Flex engine in it. About 10,000 miles ago the engine was replaced with a rebuilt (oil pump died and poof went the engine). When I got it back, it was still winter so I never used the AC. When summer came the air was warm, so I took it back to the place that did the engine and they recharged it. The air blows cold now, but whenever the AC is on and I'm sitting at a red light, the engine sputters and the RPMs go from 900 down to approx 700. Also when I attempt to accelerate, its sputters. Once I am up to a steady speed, the sputter goes away. and currently the check engine light is on and the code was diagnosed as ' EGR insufficient air flow' I was just curious if that would be related (because the first time I had problems with the EGR, it never did the sputtering) Any information would be helpful.... Thanks
Well I took the truck in and got the EGR Valve replaced as well as the DPFE (however, I am a little concerned about the DPFE.. Origionally the one I had was in a metal casing, the new one is in a plastic casing) Well, anyhow, now that they are 'replaced' it kicked the check engine light off for 60.4miles. Now it is back up and I have noticed some people saying it might need to be cleaned due to carbon build up, but I have not found any information on how to do it... since the dealer and my mechanic can't 'find' anything wrong with it and both just suggest putting a peice of electrical tape over the light. and by the way since the EGR valve has been replaced, the AC worked fine with no sputtering while the check engine light was off, but about 3 miles before the check engine light came on..... the problem with the AC came back and is now worse then it was before...... Any information would be apperiated.
The code that keeps appearing is 0401 insufficient air flow. and my last thought is to clean the throttle body? Not sure exactly sure what I need to search for to clean.... I'm hoping it is something I can do myself.. for I have lost faith in both the ford dealer in my area and my mechanic.....
P0401 - EGR Flow Insufficient Detected The EGR system is monitored during steady state driving conditions while the EGR is commanded on. The test fails when the signal from the DPF EGR sensor indicates that EGR flow is less than the desired minimum. Vacuum supply
EGR valve stuck closed
EGR valve leaks vacuum
EGR flow path restricted
EGRVR circuit shorted to PWR
VREF open to D.P.F. EGR sensor
D.P.F. EGR sensor downstream hose off or plugged
EGRVR circuit open to PCM
VPWR open to EGRVR solenoid
D.P.F. EGR sensor hoses both off
D.P.F. EGR sensor hoses reversed
Damaged EGR orifice tube
Damaged EGRVR solenoid
Damaged PCM
Perform KOER self-test and look for DTC P1408 as an indication of a hard fault. If P1408 is not present, look for contamination, restrictions, leaks, and intermittents.
Okay, No more Check Engine light. However the AC still causes the engine to sputter when I'm sitting either at an idle or just waiting at a red light (I do notice the engine shaking when it does it sputtering thing) Since the EGR problem has been fixed I haven't noticed any lack of power when I accelerate. Any help would be apperiated...
Originally posted by reac Okay, No more Check Engine light. However the AC still causes the engine to sputter when I'm sitting either at an idle or just waiting at a red light (I do notice the engine shaking when it does it sputtering thing) Since the EGR problem has been fixed I haven't noticed any lack of power when I accelerate. Any help would be apperiated...
Thanks
I don't know if things would be all that different on a truck with OBD-2...but on my 94 2.3L model, I have the same intermitent "sputtering" at idle as well. The A/C is still brutal cold, but I have heard the AC pressure switch (on the evaporator?) will cause the funny cycling if it is bad.
Then, my truck runs like crap at isle until it warms up....change the t-stat in my case, as well.
I have a little more information to add. It also is doing a little bit of a sputtering even when the AC is off, but it doesn't do it at idle. I notice it mainly between 1500 - 3500 RPMs and if I get it up to 4000RPMs it just takes off like nothing is wrong. I'm not sure if this will change any form of diagnosis, but it is something that is becomming more apparent.