So, I picked up my new F250 6.7 CC SB yesterday afternoon (Yayy!!!) and promptly hooked up my trailer to check to see how off the trailer level would be.

The big issue was the the safety clevis hooks not being able to hook up the receiver. It seems my hooks are too small.

If any of you have successfully hooked up your safety chains to your '17, can you tell me what size hooks you're using; they're usually stamped on the hook with the size.

Thanks in advance
Ron

 

I use a locking carabiner and attach the safety chain hooks to that.

 

Just make sure to get the good ones the are trailer chain rated, the should have a weight rating stamped on the, if they are blank they can break easily. A friend on our rv site just broke one of his using it the extend the chain. The TT was only 4500 lbs. it broke going over a dip wher it pulled on the chain as part of the W/D on an Andersen hitch.

 

Here, pick your posion. https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=safety+chain+parts

 

So after giving it another try, I was able to use my existing hooks.
I could only pass the hook only through the vertical opening; and although it did clasp, the hook is stuck in a particular position; it will not freely rotate.
I will try to find some larger hooks over the weekend.

Thanks for everyone's feedback

 

I looked at the hitch on a 2017 and there will have be something we can use, not sure a 1/2" carabiner will fit on the hitch.

 

I know on my f150 the only way I can get them to hook is from the bottom, hook opening facing up, which is actually the proper way maybe that's how the holes are engineered? I will also need to get a drop hitch, just dont know the hitch height yet.

 

Not sure a 1/2" carabiner would hold the weight in a breakaway.

 

May not be big enough to fit in the hole in the hitch is what I am saying. The openning in the carabiner maybe too small.

 

Whether the opening in the carabiner is too small or big enough I am thinking that carabiners are not as strong as they appear. There can be a huge shear applied to the chains in the event of an uncoupling or hitch failure and keeping control of the trailer is huge not only for damage control but liability as well. For myself I only use chain certified components. Caribiners are convenient but are very weak in the latches which are an integral portion of their working load. In order to get a 1/2" caribiner rated up to 2000 pounds (which is about 2/3 the WLL of 3/8" proof coil chain) will cost about $70 each. The $12 1/2" carabiners are rated about 900 lbs. but keep in mind that a working load is not the same as an impact...that tiny pin used as a hinge is not worth much compared to the value you are pulling behind you. Just sayin'

A couple of months ago a friend who owns a sawmill and logging company called and asked for help. He had a full load of oak logs fresh from the forest on his tri-axle and almost as much on his wagon style trailer. The 2- 1/2" bolt which held the pintle hitch on the truck broke and left the wagon to swerve back and force on the road yanking severely at the safety chains. He had just welded new loops on the truck for the safety chains since the originals were poorly welded and looked weak. The truck and trailer survived and an oncoming car might have had a mess in his shorts but left unscathed as well. Mechanical failure will happen when you least expect it in spite of all good inspections and intentions. Having the back up system in good working order may sometimes seem like a waste, until the one time you actually need it.

 

At work we use shackles on our safety chains. You can attach it to whichever link you need to get the right length for a given truck. I bet a 5/8 or 3/4 shackle will fit the truck.

 

Right on. I do the same. Different lengths and loop sizes, adequate weight ability and easy to install or remove. Great suggestion.

 

Could use something like this but I still question the thread strength.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-87492.html

 

These threaded links have much higher strength than standard grade carabiners and actually work well for safety chains if they are sized correctly. Make sure to NevrSeize or assume they are a permanent installation.

 

We used those on our trawl nets because they wouldn't get caught on the meshes.
They worked great. The only problem we encountered was when the nets were
deployed if the links were placed so that the threaded ferrule was opposite the
direction of the boat that sometimes they would loosen. We used a bar through
the link and a wrench to tighten them but would still find one or two come loose
over time. Also used never seize, salt water plays heck with metal parts.