Recently bought this truck and the deltas are starting to spread to 30-38* difference, before I tore everything apart I flushed the coolant system with the VC-9 and distilled water....flushed and flushed and flushed.....took a while to get the brown stuff out but I bought the proper coolant for it......

Got the turbo out and intake manifold out last night.....Going to clean everything real nice before I pull the actual oil cooler out.....of course I am going to do the EGR delete, What else should I update while im there?

I plan on replacing the ICP since its under the turbo and thats removed I also plan on replacing the screen on the IPR.

I will replace the intake manifold gaskets, and completely reseal the oil cooler housing.....

 

For an '03 check the turbo oil feed and drain tubes to see if they are the '03 versions or the updated versions. I would pull the turbo clean air side to inspect the unison ring and clean everything, but I think you mentioned that. Get those intake ports plugged or cover to prevent anything from dropping down in there. Over the years there have been a number of posts on all the Ford diesel forum about DIY and dealership motor destructions from the small nuts dropping in there. Carefully check the ICP pigtail and wire to see if there is any oil soaking.

If you had any drone from the turbo there also was an updated pedestal for the '03s.

Had you still had it together I would have suggested other flushing chemicals too. I don't know if you can still do it depending on how much you have it disassembled, but pulling the water pump and doing a reverse flush from the coolant exit port would have been good. I would also be pulling the radiator (if you haven't done so so you could stand in the bay) and find a radiator shop that can chemically clean the core. Occasionally after oil cooler work the clogging returns and IMO it's caused from silicates still trapped in the block, radiator and heater core. The heater core does not retain that much and reverse flow can often get a sufficient amount out. If you don't have the access to a radiator shop, rig up a system with two hoses that can reverse flush the radiator as you need the volume of water.

If I think of more I'll post back.

 

I do plan on updating the oil feed and drain tubes.....

I really hope it doesn't clog back up, I mean I spent almost 8 hours flushing the system out...I even removed the cap on the oil cooler and back flushed it threw there....

I used a brand new 5 gallon bucket and you could actually see small particales in the bottom of it which slowly went away.....

I will have the EGR delete tomorrw but will have the oil cooler today so I will get that replaced along with the IPR screen and check out the ICP

 

In addition to what Jack has mentioned:


-Consider resealing the HPOP (there is a kit $10 or so) and verifying that the pump itself is tight and has no play in it. If it's loose, the Adrenaline HPOP is the best replacement option. There is also a revised HPOP cover and you should also check the discharge tube while you have it apart.


-Simple green, Super Clean, Heavy engine degreaser and a good, strong pressure washer, are your best friends when it comes to getting that intake manifold clean. From there, plenty of carb cleaner will clean up the lighter gunk.


-Consider replacing your FICM harness they get brittle over the years and the loom can break and before you know it, you have chaffing issues. If you have a very early 2003 truck, the FICM harness is actually part of the engine harness and not separate like it is on the newer trucks. If that's the case, I'd reinforce the existing loom.

 

It was good that you did the back flush. I cannot emphasize enough about making sure that radiator is clean of debris. It is a huge trap for debris.

 

As Toreador mentioned - Check the harness for chafe spots.

Even if it looks okay, you can usually tell the spots where chafing could become an issue.

I keep various sizes of heater hose on hand for this. You can cut a 4-5" section (or however long you need), then carefully cut it lengthwise so you can put it over a section of the wiring harness like a jacket. A few zip ties will keep in in place and it makes a nice durable outer layer.

Good luck

 

Will carefully inspect the wiring harness tonight. Thanks guys

 

Got the new oil cooler in, cleaned the valley under the cooler very good, cleaned on top and around the oil cooler cover and blew it out with my air compressor before I took the housing off for the oil cooler......

New oil cooler is in, new screen under the oil cooler is in, new screen on the IPR, ICP actually looked newer so I didn't fuss with that the harness is in excellent shape....

My question is should I pre fill the oil cooler with oil before trying to crank it over?

 

When I did mine I only pre filled the reservoir under the cover. I'm not sure how much oil would fit in the cooler itself but it wouldn't hurt.

 

Could I just fill that thru the oil filter housing?

 

Good job and yes you should!


Refill the oil through the oil filter, this refills the HPO reservoir and should make for an easier, faster start.

 

Do you know approx how much oil I should pour into there?

If everything goes well I will run the truck tonight down the highway for a little while and come home and change the oil.....

As long as the turbo is nice to me and lines up some what easily it wont take much time to get it going

 

Should be able to get at least two quarts up in the HPOP sump and cooler, closer to three if I was a betting man.

 

Okay, I will do that.

Does it make sense to change the engine oil since I did it probably no more then 200 miles ago? Should I just replace the oil filter?

 

Tyler you can dump all 14-15 down in filter house if you want

Once the reservoir is full it just goes to the pan via the oil filter house drain that open cause filter is out