Quick parasitic draw question
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Senior User
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From: spokane
Like the one linked, I've only seen them in the flat configuration like that. This one has terminals that are stacked which makes me think its something else.
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From: spokane
Okay. I thought it would be on the fender. Guess I'll be looking there when I get a minute.
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From: spokane
Okay, so I found the regulator (I feel dumb now lol helps if you look in the right spot I guess) so I guess now this boils down to, should I go 3g and eliminate some wires being used or should I stick with factory? If I do go 3g, I'm able to eliminate the wires associated with the voltage regulator correct? Or do they still serve a purpose?
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From: spokane
On a side note, my carb started leaking today (well, probably yesterday or the day before) so that just got a rebuild and while I was at it replaced the alt and volt regulator. I'm getting a much better charge now in addition to what seems like brighter head lights and my blower motor isn't slowing down at idle (all though my idle is a little high at the moment). More tuning will be done tomorrow with vac gauge to get more on point carb tune. Will be monitoring my bat voltage to see if either the alt or regulator was the drain. If it holds up tonight and still has a full charge tomorrow morning that'll be great.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,022
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From: A dirty little town in OR
When I bought my 73 the PO kept crowing about the new alternator he'd put in. Within two days the lights were dim and eventually inop. He'd put in a new alt but not a new regulator (which was probably the issue in the first place).
The bad regulator ate the @ss out of a brand new alternator and battery before I figured out what was going on.
The bad regulator ate the @ss out of a brand new alternator and battery before I figured out what was going on.
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: spokane
Just closing out the thread basically with this update and a thank you to all who helped. New alt and volt reg seem to have been the cure. Last night at about 9:30 (after a short drive) the battery was reading 13.something volts but discharging a bit (normal I know) so 2 hours later,about 11:30, it was reading at 12.75V. The battery wasn't starting at a 100% charge so I wasn't expecting it to be at 100%. This morning, approximately 9 hours later, before I went to work it was reading at 12.67V. So I am assuming that I have rectified the problem.
So thank you all again for your input and help.
On a side note, the volt reg I put in is an electronically controlled one (life time warranty) from what I've read this should be fine and this was verified by the parts jockey computer. Anybody have any issues with electronic control? Should I have just gotten the mechanical one?
So thank you all again for your input and help.
On a side note, the volt reg I put in is an electronically controlled one (life time warranty) from what I've read this should be fine and this was verified by the parts jockey computer. Anybody have any issues with electronic control? Should I have just gotten the mechanical one?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
Just closing out the thread basically with this update and a thank you to all who helped. New alt and volt reg seem to have been the cure. Last night at about 9:30 (after a short drive) the battery was reading 13.something volts but discharging a bit (normal I know) so 2 hours later,about 11:30, it was reading at 12.75V. The battery wasn't starting at a 100% charge so I wasn't expecting it to be at 100%. This morning, approximately 9 hours later, before I went to work it was reading at 12.67V. So I am assuming that I have rectified the problem.
So thank you all again for your input and help.
On a side note, the volt reg I put in is an electronically controlled one (life time warranty) from what I've read this should be fine and this was verified by the parts jockey computer. Anybody have any issues with electronic control? Should I have just gotten the mechanical one?
So thank you all again for your input and help.
On a side note, the volt reg I put in is an electronically controlled one (life time warranty) from what I've read this should be fine and this was verified by the parts jockey computer. Anybody have any issues with electronic control? Should I have just gotten the mechanical one?
The electronic one is far superior to the mech one that was the right choice.
The only advantage the mech one has is you can change the voltage on off settings this is an advantage if you are running an AGM battery as they like a littler higher charging voltage over the standard lead acid battery.
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Senior User
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From: spokane
The electronic one is far superior to the mech one that was the right choice.
The only advantage the mech one has is you can change the voltage on off settings this is an advantage if you are running an AGM battery as they like a littler higher charging voltage over the standard lead acid battery.
The only advantage the mech one has is you can change the voltage on off settings this is an advantage if you are running an AGM battery as they like a littler higher charging voltage over the standard lead acid battery.
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 559
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From: Australian Outback
Good work and glad to hear this fixed it!
A new regulator and altenator is the best fix for this sort of problem by far as they tend to affect one another, one goes bad they both go bad unless you catch them really quick.
A 12.6 ~ 12.7 resting voltage is perfect for a battery in good health, glad to hear it stayed that way overnight!
Cheers - boingk
A new regulator and altenator is the best fix for this sort of problem by far as they tend to affect one another, one goes bad they both go bad unless you catch them really quick.
A 12.6 ~ 12.7 resting voltage is perfect for a battery in good health, glad to hear it stayed that way overnight!
Cheers - boingk
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Good to know they are superior and that I'm just using a lead acid battery. I believe the electronic ones are adjustable too with the right equipment? That's of no concern to me though. I'm happy now. My problems have been fixed. Just need to re tune my carb now since I had to rebuild it last night.
There are 2 types of AGM batteries Sprial wound cell (such as an optima) and flat glass mat (like Exide).
Pro
The can deliver more max amps on demand than an equivalent sized lead acid and do it for longer.
Up to 5 times faster charge than with lead acid
More Vibration resistant than lead acid
They are less affected by extreme cold.
Have a higher cycle life
They do not out gas like a Lead acid so ventilation is a non issue. and you do not get all the fluffy corrosion on your terminals.
Running an AGM flat (dead 0V) does not damage the battery like it will a lead acid.
Less prone to sulfation if not regularly topping charged
They can be frozen solid and still be revived with no ill affects (this is usually a death sentence for lead acid)
Cons
Cost can be up to 3 times the cost of an equivalent lead acid
Sensitive to overcharging
Capacity has gradual decline amp out slowly delcines
Must be stored in a fully charged condition
They do not like heat. (Can be an issue in under-hood applications with tight spaces.
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