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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

03' 6.0 keep chasing problems

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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 08:28 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
While cranking with the remote starter wire , bubbles flow. Remove a glow plug, crank it, bubbles stop... that's your bad injector. Bubbles stop when the correct glow plugs removed, not just any plug

There are two screws in the bottom of the bowl, remove both and the side that bubbles is the side to go after. Then it's down to 4 glow plugs, start at the front and go back. Very easy.
I understand how to get it narrowed down to one side or the other. For some reason I am not grasping the removal of the glow plugs one at a time and seeing the bubbles stop. If you were to remove the very first plug and it was bad would the bubbles completely stop even if the next plug was bad too?
 
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 09:25 PM
  #17  
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The balloon on the left side of the filter housing started filling with air, so I guess it's the passenger side that has the bad injector. Ordering the glow plug removal tool from Amazon, hopefully will get it by Monday or Tuesday. Since I'm ordering the tool and will be doing all the work myself any recommendations on other parts I will need. I wasn't sure if I needed injector o-ring rebuild sets or anything else since I will have things torn apart a little bit.

Thanks for all the help.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 10:02 PM
  #18  
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Bubbles are happening because the injector is leaking, basically your pressing air into the fuel system with each compression stroke. By removing the glow plug, it escapes out the glow plug hole instead of the injector seal, into the fuel rail and back to the bowl... where you see the bubbles.

You'll need at least one seal kit, I keep spares as they are not expensive. Neither are glow plugs or plug harness as they are brittle and break easy.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 10:26 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
Bubbles are happening because the injector is leaking, basically your pressing air into the fuel system with each compression stroke. By removing the glow plug, it escapes out the glow plug hole instead of the injector seal, into the fuel rail and back to the bowl... where you see the bubbles.

You'll need at least one seal kit, I keep spares as they are not expensive. Neither are glow plugs or plug harness as they are brittle and break easy.
Will I just replace the seals on the injector that's leaking? I was thinking I had to replace the whole injector?
 
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 11:31 PM
  #20  
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Great you found it


I didn't read all the posts
Got it to a bank yet


you need to Pull all GP in the bank that bad and then test each cylinder one at a Time and if you come to a cylinder with bubbles remove that GP before continue on to next cylinder


replace inject and repeat bubble test before complete assembly
 
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 11:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by thelunkster
Will I just replace the seals on the injector that's leaking? I was thinking I had to replace the whole injector?


Replace with OEM FORD Inject


you run a risk of hydro lock don't jack the engine up over it


Its normally Internal inject failure a seal kit wont fix
Even if the seals are Burned up and gone it Starts to Fail Internally first the aftermath is just burnes up seals if it let go to long even catastrophic engine fail can be caused by injector problems


Kinda a lot at stake IMO
 
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Old Sep 18, 2016 | 10:46 PM
  #22  
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Waiting for some parts to be delivered and the time to work on the truck. Hopefully will be able to have time by next weekend. Thanks for all the help you guys have been giving, will keep you posted.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2016 | 11:18 PM
  #23  
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reman injectors come with seal kit


you can pull center standpipe out fuel bowel and watch it a few time and catch a bubble rolling out of one side or the other


ballon works to just harder to tell if inject is barely fail vs one that's gone should blow it fast plus more work
 
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 10:49 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
While cranking with the remote starter wire , bubbles flow. Remove a glow plug, crank it, bubbles stop... that's your bad injector. Bubbles stop when the correct glow plug is removed, not just any plug

There are two screws in the bottom of the bowl, remove both and the side that bubbles is the side to go after. Then it's down to 4 glow plugs, start at the front and go back. Very easy.
Been a couple weeks but I replaced the front injector that was testing to be bad, I did a quick bubble test to verify and put everything together. Started truck and after a couple minutes the problem is back. So after beating my head on the wall I double checked everything I put together and truck still runs rough. I again did the balloon test and it is filling up the passenger side again. Either I installed a bad rebuilt injector, another name tour is bad I didn't notice the first time, or I am missing something? Help!!!!!!!
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 08:18 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by thelunkster
Been a couple weeks but I replaced the front injector that was testing to be bad, I did a quick bubble test to verify and put everything together. Started truck and after a couple minutes the problem is back. So after beating my head on the wall I double checked everything I put together and truck still runs rough. I again did the balloon test and it is filling up the passenger side again. Either I installed a bad rebuilt injector, another name tour is bad I didn't notice the first time, or I am missing something? Help!!!!!!!
Injector bore was shiny and clean when you put the reman back in?
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 01:19 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by navistarnut
Injector bore was shiny and clean when you put the reman back in?
It looked clean, didn't wire brush it. If it was dirty could it cause air to lack back through to the fuel bowel?
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 01:30 PM
  #27  
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It could cause the injector to not seal. Pull it, clean the bore and put a new copper on it, try again. Make sure the torque is right and there wasn't any fluid in the bolt hole or that you didn't over torque the hold down clamp.

You could swap it with another hole if you think its bad, but that means you have to seal both injectors.

Leave the oil rail off after you get the injectors torqued down, use the remote starter wire to run the bubble test. No need to even connect the injector harness, your just checking the seal.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 06:54 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
It could cause the injector to not seal. Pull it, clean the bore and put a new copper on it, try again. Make sure the torque is right and there wasn't any fluid in the bolt hole or that you didn't over torque the hold down clamp.

You could swap it with another hole if you think its bad, but that means you have to seal both injectors.

Leave the oil rail off after you get the injectors torqued down, use the remote starter wire to run the bubble test. No need to even connect the injector harness, your just checking the seal.
I removed the glow plugs individually, came up as the same injector I changed out. I called where I picked up the injector and they will trade out with me even though they say they never have injectors returned. I am hoping I just got a bad injector.
Since removing it I did clean the inside of the bore with whatever metal and plastic wire brushes around the house I have that will fit in the hole. The bore really isn't too dirty though, looks pretty clean. I will put the new injector in tomorrow and see how it goes.
Any certain type of brush people use to clean the hole where the injector goes?

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 07:41 PM
  #29  
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A soft wire brush. Make sure to use a new copper seal, the old one crushed when you torqued it down.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 08:43 PM
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You doing the bubble test on Each cylinder Individually


NOT working your way down the Line


I hope your getting injectors from Ford
 
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