Background:

I am third owner of E99 F-250 with 170,000. Live tuned, 4" exhaust, AIS intake and leaking up pipes (they have been leaking ever since I got it). It is time to fix the up pipes.

Resources:

One 225,000+- mile L99 engine minus turbo, spyder and pedestal and one 130,000 mile 2003 van engine out of my short bus complete except for injectors. And one person locally looking for E99 spyder with a later version to trade for it.

The only parts I need to buy at this point for this project are up pipes, gaskets and sealant.

Work to be done:

Up pipes and upgrade to 99.5+ intake system. Only doing the upgrade because of the difference in up pipe price for the later years and I have the parts.
Swap WW from E99 turbo to van turbo, swap in IDM from the van and 17* HPOP. Additionally, the E99 engine has SS HPOP lines and I may as well swap them it while I'm at it. Inspect all other things and repair while I'm in there.

Preparation:

Removed intake plenums from 2003 van engine, the L99's do not have screens in them, and remove sealant. Sealant is a tedious job. First one I just used a mixture of acetone and xylene. Tools were razor scraper and a small screwdriver (and my thumbnail to get down in the gully) (the plenum has a gully around the edges for sealant to go into). It was a tedious job, the mixture did soften the stuff up but it was still not easy, I'd say 1 1/2 to 2 hrs. The second plenum I took a silicone and sealant remover with a gel consistency and that softened the sealant, which permitted the heavy stuff to scrape right off with the razor but it wouldn't take of the residual for some reason. Used the solvent mix to get that off. I found that the best tool to use to clean out that gully was my thumbnail (they're not long but they are there). It flexed a little in there and got the junk out. I felt like a dental hygienist. This method used up about an hour. I didn't get them as clean as I normally would (I like 100% clean) but I got what I determined to be 'good enough' at this point.
Here's before and after (you get to guess which is which).






I have removed the SS HPOP lines, which are a little trying with screwdrivers but it can be done if you get stuff out of the way and you can get to them.

The van has a rebuilt HPOP on it and I was going to go with that but I was advised to stick with my E99 before installing a rebuilt pump. So...I decided to go with the pump off of the L99, which should be a 17* pump. Removed and cleaned up HPOP.

I have rebuilt fuel bowl and am just considering adding fitting(s) for fuel pressure gauge.

I have removed fuel crossover lines in the event I need to swap any in due to wear.

My game plan:

Remove both inner fenders, remove pretty much everything from the top of the engine, including the engine harness. I intend to leave the alternator and A/C pump in place if possible. Clean up the valley and inspect fuel crossover lines. The donor lines that I have are not damaged. Then install my 'new' stuff. I will tackle the up pipes before I install pump, fuel bowl, etc.

I am not looking to build this truck beyond what improvements I can make with the stuff I already have. I am entertaining the thought of going with AC injectors when the time comes.

A few questions come to mind at the moment for those who have done up pipes before:

1: Should I remove the wheels for this operation?
2: Should I be able to do this with the 4" exhaust in the way or should I plan on getting it out of there?

I know it's going to be a rough ride but I have a good garage to work in, 50 years of collected tools and plenty of time so I can work 'til I feel like it's time for a break. Oh, yeah, and the heat has finally broke.

Thanks,
Mark

 

Removing the passenger side wheel will give you more room to reach the up pipes to manifold bolts.I left my wheel on but in hindsight I should have removed it.
Driver side wheel can stay on.
I left exhaust on and it wasn't really a problem.
If you for take off the wheel please secure the truck really well,you're going to spend a lot of time under it.
Good luck and take your time.

 

I have a late 99 to 03 spider i will trade.
it has been drilled and tapped for something 1/8 inch pipe i think, and powder coated.

 

I'll take you up on that if this guy falls through but I don't think he will, he's been texting me for like 8 weeks jonesing for this spider, he says that they're hard to find and he's doing something to his truck and needs it.

 

OK, the game has begun. I got myself set up in the garage with my trailer for my work platform. It's not too bad working down on the truck.




Things are going fairly well but right now I'm stumped and need some ideas. It's the clamp that holds the turbo to the baby's butt. I know what I need to do but I have an angle that won't let me do it. I have gotten the one side popped loose but the other side points towards the firewall and it's got me beaten for now. If I can remove wastegate assembly it would give me a little more room. I got the two nuts off that hold the diaphragm body in place but I can't figure out how the arm is held to the valve in the back. Even with a mirror I can't pick it out. Can I just unscrew that shaft? I'm also thinking that a slide hammer might be able to reach in there if I can get the wastegate out of the way.

 

The arm is held on with a tiny little "c clip"

Use a "Hook and pick" set to get the little bugger out....Carefully, or else you'll be looking for it.

 

Got that and I see how that clip could easily pop out and get lost, thanks for that. I worked with a mirror overhead to get it. Got that clamp off. I had been trying to pry it off but learned that if you just hit it in the side on the inner pieces it will pop off.

Now...that EBPV, any tips there? It looks like same deal as wastegate. I am in fear of rounding the heads off the back pedestal bolts, they feel like lock tite was used on them.

 

Here you go.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...with-pics.html

 

I didn't find this thread earlier, so I might be a bit late, sorry.

The wastegate clip: Push the clip ON, don't pull it off, or it is a real bear to get back on. Ask me how I know

You're trying to remove the collector?

Take a little time, sip a little wine, and see if you can pick up any tips from my thread of the same work: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15730880

Pay close attention to the "lessons learned" post #71

 

Thanks much for those pics, that clip gives me a lot of relief. I am also updating to 99.5+ pedestal and plenums while I'm replacing the up pipes. And the HPOP too.

The turbo has an "AR 1.10" cast into the intake side. I know that this truck had some stuff done to it but I don't know what all was done.

I already broke the outgoing EBP solenoid and fortunately my 'new' pedestal has a new one in it. Once I have it apart I'll update with what I have found and see what I should meld together.

 

When you pull the EBPV Solenoid, take it to your local hydraulic shop and have them give you a couple of new orings. Avoid the leaks

I don't know all the different turbo housings and such, but perhaps someone else can chime in?

 

I'm hoping to leave the new solenoid in the new pedestal and I'll be careful to not break it. Once I have it out (which will be today) I'll get pics of the turbo to post. Tugly indicated that it could be an early version of GPTR 38RT (ha ha whatever it's called I CRS).

 

Pull the solenoid to work with the pedestal. It's easy and you really want to replace the orings. They are notorious and you REALLY don't want your EBPV failing. It will rob you of power like an anchor

Remove the retaining clip, wiggle and work it out. Easier when it's off. When reinstalling after the pedestal is on the truck, lube the orings and start it straight and give it a pop with a wooden hammer handle and reinstall the clip (one bolt).

Really simple. You can also clean up any grime or anything you find on the solenoid, it happens

 

OK, I got the top end torn up pretty good. Most of the sensors are disconnected and I peeled the harness over to the left out of the way. One bolt on the pedestal felt like it was getting ready to round off, once the turbo was out I was able to get a good hold of it with a six point socket.

On the plenums that one bolt that holds the clamp for the passenger's side fuel line didn't want to let the nut off the top of it. I managed to wedge a screwdriver in there to hold it still while I broke the nut loose (no pic of that) and you probably have to experience it to understand what I'm saying on it. The gear didn't want to let the HPOP go so I had to yank the HPOP reservoir and pry the gear off with two screwdrivers. The HPOP was also glued in with some sort of sealant so it must have been off before.

Here's a picture of the outgoing E99 turbo up against the incoming van turbo. There is quite a difference between them. I swapped the WW out of the E99 into the van turbo. No wastegate on the van turbo.




A shot of the valley pretty much naked. It was dry in there until I pulled the HPOP. I got sawed off soda cans covering the plenum holes to prevent an accident and you can't quite see it but a wine cork went into the oil return hole for the pedestal, rumor has it that stuff falls in there too. There's already SS HPOP hoses that look good so I won't need to swap them in. And there is no screen there in the bottom of the HPOP reservoir, there is one in the 2003 van engine though so I need to look at this.



And here are two of my tools of the day. The dental pic was used to pop the spring clip off of the wastegate up top, that thing has more uses that you can imagine, it's great for R&R on O rings, haven't damaged a good O ring since I got it. It's also great for cleaning tight areas like inside fuel line fittings and around the HPOP line quick disconnect fittings. The syringe I got at Pep Boys, they sell it for mixing 2 stroke oil, it's all marked up with oil:gas ratios. The tube fits into the HPOP reservoir through the sensor hole and I used it to suck up all that oil that drained into the valley. It only holds a few ounces though so it takes a few rounds to empty the HPOP reservoir.



Is there someone I can send that HPOP to and have it analyzed to see what it is? I'm going to swap in my L99 pump because I know what that is and it beats an E99 pump.

 

Looks like you're gitn-r-done

I see your fuel lines are off. Don't forget to order new Parker sleeves to reseal those. If you need the part numbers or lines, they are in my "Holding her breath" thread.

I'm going to look Friday for some brass rod to turn down some fuel poppets.

Remember to plug up your redline since you won't have a wastegate now.

If you want a post filter fuel pressure sensor, install a 90deg fitting in the port while the bowl is out. Either way, take both the sensor hole plugs out and put them back in. They will be easier to get out later if you want to use the port and try it while on the truck.

Check your passenger fuel line for rubbing under that bracket on the heads.

Have you checked/cleaned your EBP tube yet? Pretty good time and access at this point. People are using an old speedo cable to work in and out with some solvent.

Those are some things that came to mind...while you're at it.

Keep up the good work and the pics!