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This is what I use, but if you are not familiar with the process I would leave it to someone that does. There are a lot of curves and crevasses on that dash...JMO
Here's the problem...there is shiny and there is smooth, you are already at "shiny" but to get to "smooth" you have to remove the lumps. When I colorsand I start with 1500 grit, I use Meguiars Unigrit paper made by Nikken. Use an appropriate block, in this case it would be one that is stiff enough to hold out finger marks but flexible enough to conform to the curves. After sanding an area with the 1500 I evaluate how the paper is cutting down the orange peel. If it is working well then I continue, if not I drop to 1000 grit. I work the panel until all the low spots are gone, I call these the "shinies" because as you sand down the high spots the low spots will continue to show as shiny spots until the surface is finally smooth. When the surface is uniformly dull I drop down to 2000 grit and then to 2500 grit...remember, sanding with these ultra fine grits is only to remove the sanding scratches from the previous grits, not to shape the surface. Polishing comes next, I have various tools to accomplish this task but my favorites are the Rupes LHR75 or the 3M 28363 random orbital polishers. I start with a 3 inch wool pad and Meguiars M100 compound and then go to a foam pad and Meguiars 205 polishing compound. I also use 3M Perfect-It products with good results. Hope this helps...
Lookin' good my friend! Where do you guys find the patience??? I can guarantee you...I won't be color sanding...
I am already sick of sanding the old paint off !! I want my truck painted, but the PATINA idea sounds really nice right now...or maybe the flat black satin look. Glossy just enhances my lack of patience....
Lookin' good my friend! Where do you guys find the patience??? I can guarantee you...I won't be color sanding...
I am already sick of sanding the old paint off !! I want my truck painted, but the PATINA idea sounds really nice right now...or maybe the flat black satin look. Glossy just enhances my lack of patience....
You know I felt the same but wet sanding is a lot cleaner and no mask on your face.
The elbow and my hands hurt though
Here's the problem...there is shiny and there is smooth, you are already at "shiny" but to get to "smooth" you have to remove the lumps. When I colorsand I start with 1500 grit, I use Meguiars Unigrit paper made by Nikken. Use an appropriate block, in this case it would be one that is stiff enough to hold out finger marks but flexible enough to conform to the curves. After sanding an area with the 1500 I evaluate how the paper is cutting down the orange peel. If it is working well then I continue, if not I drop to 1000 grit. I work the panel until all the low spots are gone, I call these the "shinies" because as you sand down the high spots the low spots will continue to show as shiny spots until the surface is finally smooth. When the surface is uniformly dull I drop down to 2000 grit and then to 2500 grit...remember, sanding with these ultra fine grits is only to remove the sanding scratches from the previous grits, not to shape the surface. Polishing comes next, I have various tools to accomplish this task but my favorites are the Rupes LHR75 or the 3M 28363 random orbital polishers. I start with a 3 inch wool pad and Meguiars M100 compound and then go to a foam pad and Meguiars 205 polishing compound. I also use 3M Perfect-It products with good results. Hope this helps...
Roy the sheets of sand paper that I gave you to try (at lunch meet) is the stuff Charlie is talking about. "Maguires Uni Grit". It improved my end results for sure.
On my tailgate I used these 1"foam buffers, they also sell the 1" backing pad if you need it,I just cut down a 2" I had. "LINK" FLEX PE8 Rotary Foam Pads 1, 2, 3 Inch Diameter They got into some of the places that a larger pad just couldn't hit. I used them on a HF 2" orbital buffer cut down to 1". DISCLAIMER "IM NO PAINTER"