F150 OBD Code P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit malfunction (PRNDL Input)
#1
F150 OBD Code P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit malfunction (PRNDL Input)
Hello, I'm Also Having another OBD Code come up. It's <table orderColor="#0000ff" width="420" border="1"> <tr>
<td vAlign="top"><font face="VERDANA" size="2"><b>P0705</b> </font></td> <td vAlign="top"><font face="VERDANA" size="2"><b>Transmission Range Sensor Circuit malfunction (PRNDL Input)</b> </font></td> </tr> </table> <p><font face="VERDANA" size="2">If anybody knows anything about this I would appreciate the help. Just bought this car and need some helps.</font></p> <p> </p> <p><font face="VERDANA" size="2">Thanks to racerguy for the help before</font></p> <p> </p> <p><font face="VERDANA" size="2">1999 Ford F150 5.4L 4X4 XLT</font></p>
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<td vAlign="top"><font face="VERDANA" size="2"><b>P0705</b> </font></td> <td vAlign="top"><font face="VERDANA" size="2"><b>Transmission Range Sensor Circuit malfunction (PRNDL Input)</b> </font></td> </tr> </table> <p><font face="VERDANA" size="2">If anybody knows anything about this I would appreciate the help. Just bought this car and need some helps.</font></p> <p> </p> <p><font face="VERDANA" size="2">Thanks to racerguy for the help before</font></p> <p> </p> <p><font face="VERDANA" size="2">1999 Ford F150 5.4L 4X4 XLT</font></p>
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#2
#3
Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
I am having the same problem on a 1997 F-150. I keep getting a check engine light and when I read the code I get "P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)".
Is there anyone out there smarter than me that can tell me how to resolve this problem? Thanks
Is there anyone out there smarter than me that can tell me how to resolve this problem? Thanks
#4
Hi Texan2Flyer and welcome to FTE
Without some special Ford tools such as a scanner and breakout box there probably isn't too much diagnosing you can do other than to replace the TRS and see what happens.
It shouldn't cost tooo much but I'm not sure how much. It's quite easy to replace.
Let us know what you find and if you need some instructions for replacing it.
Without some special Ford tools such as a scanner and breakout box there probably isn't too much diagnosing you can do other than to replace the TRS and see what happens.
It shouldn't cost tooo much but I'm not sure how much. It's quite easy to replace.
Let us know what you find and if you need some instructions for replacing it.
#5
I have the same problem and could use some help in knowing how to replace it. Is this something a novice can replace? I have the check engine light and also when I shift into reverse my radio turns off momentarily. Anyone know how much these cost? I have a 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty 4x4. Any harm in continuing to drive the vehicle? Thanks, Steve
#6
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#8
Well after replacing the transmission range sensor, Not a bad job. 15mm center bolt and 2-8mm bolts to mount, Was very rusty, spray the hell out of it and let it sit for a day or so, still won't start. Starter was replaced last month, can't be that. Going to check ignition switch. Anyone have any other ideas?
#9
#10
Yes, won't turn over. Aligned TRS as per instructions,(key on shifter in reverse and reverse lights on.) This morn tried the ignition switch, getting continuity at the various positions. I am really stumped on this one. I am starting to rethink the new starter is bad. Oh and did check fuses also.
#11
Bobs_99f150
well I didnt know if you knew it or not but that sensor does have a little bit of an adjustment...... loosen the 8 mm bolts on the sensor and it will turn to the left or right a little......also a problem that I had a couple years back was every once in a while my truck would do the same thing and after a lot of headaches The moisture from the snow and water on my boot made my fuse box under the dash start to corrode and was shorting out which made my ignition not work.....but how I got around that was I turned the key on and crossed the sylinoid..
well I didnt know if you knew it or not but that sensor does have a little bit of an adjustment...... loosen the 8 mm bolts on the sensor and it will turn to the left or right a little......also a problem that I had a couple years back was every once in a while my truck would do the same thing and after a lot of headaches The moisture from the snow and water on my boot made my fuse box under the dash start to corrode and was shorting out which made my ignition not work.....but how I got around that was I turned the key on and crossed the sylinoid..
#12
Hi, I had that problem once. My truck didn't start for a week and after inspecting the ECU, changing the TRS, the starter and the starter relay and even buying a new battery it was the BOLT that holds the ground wire to the engine block, for some reason got loose during the years. All that money and I only needed a wrench.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
#15
You all have to think a bit deeper about a no crank issue.
What is supposed to happen electically when you attempt to crank other than the starter running?
The ignition switch has battery through a fuse standing on it's start terminal.
When you call for cranking this is passed to a start relay through the trans switch in park or neutral position and closes power to the starter.
Any issue along this lead path will prevent cranking.
If you hear a click it usually means the start relay is operating so that means a possible battery cable issue, a starter or even the contacts in the start relay could be faulty. The DTR and ignition switch would be ok at this point.
If you hear nothing, the start relay is not receiving power to operate anything making the start circuit appear open.
If you have interior lights that go out when you attempt to crank it could be battery cable connections, an open cell strap in the battery, a jammed starter etc.
A crank no start is a totally different issue.
Good luck.
What is supposed to happen electically when you attempt to crank other than the starter running?
The ignition switch has battery through a fuse standing on it's start terminal.
When you call for cranking this is passed to a start relay through the trans switch in park or neutral position and closes power to the starter.
Any issue along this lead path will prevent cranking.
If you hear a click it usually means the start relay is operating so that means a possible battery cable issue, a starter or even the contacts in the start relay could be faulty. The DTR and ignition switch would be ok at this point.
If you hear nothing, the start relay is not receiving power to operate anything making the start circuit appear open.
If you have interior lights that go out when you attempt to crank it could be battery cable connections, an open cell strap in the battery, a jammed starter etc.
A crank no start is a totally different issue.
Good luck.