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What I have seen of electronic sway control is a correction by applying brakes to one side or the other of the truck after the sway has started. (please correct me if my impression is wrong.) WD hitches with sway control prevent the sway from occurring in the first place. Take your pick.
Another really cool option is electronic sway control on the trailer brakes. It works the same by pulsing the trailer brakes on one side or the other to straighten you out. I have it as a factory option on my 5th and it works...
Another really cool option is electronic sway control on the trailer brakes. It works the same by pulsing the trailer brakes on one side or the other to straighten you out. I have it as a factory option on my 5th and it works...
Lippert makes one too now and will probably put these guys out of business like they do with everything else they get their fingers into...
Rodney, does the Ford sway control work to apply the trailer brakes or the truck brakes? How does it detect sway in the first place? If on the trailer brakes rewiring would be required to separate the left and right sides in order to apply the individual side brakes.
Rodney, does the Ford sway control work to apply the trailer brakes or the truck brakes? How does it detect sway in the first place? If on the trailer brakes rewiring would be required to separate the left and right sides in order to apply the individual side brakes.
I'm pretty sure the Ford system applies the trailer brakes, but all the trailer brakes since, as you mention, the left and right aren't separate.
I have no idea if or how the truck sway control works. On my RV, the Tuson control module is mounted in the front above my genset bolted to the frame. It works with a proprietary algorithm and when it senses sway, it pulses the left or right brakes accordingly to straighten you you. Yes, the brakes have to be wired separately left and right for it to work. Mine was done at the factory but it's not a hard job at all to do it after the fact. You'd just run a second line from the Tuson module to your door side brakes and use the original for the ODS. (That's they way they are all routed anyway...) I've caught it more than once doing it's thing. With an axle forward toyhauler like mine with very light pin weight, this system is well worth it's relatively inexpensive price...
Thanks. These answers are as I suspected. So my answer to the majority of trailer owners without trailer specific sway controls is, for your own safety, prevent sway in the first place with a tongue mounted sway controller and load your trailer correctly. I wish I had a dollar for every pop up camper I have witnessed tracking back and forth across their entire lane mile after mile. And I wish I had never seen the results of a large RV trailer or otherwise strewn 100 yards down the median strip with the tow vehicle on its roof, rv totally destroyed and the underwear and bras hanging off the road signs and guardrails. Bad equipment? bad drivers? un-knowledgeable drivers? Who knows. But the death, injuries and destruction are a real shame, especially if it could have been prevented with the correct equipment and training.
If you really want to be safe, go mechanical and electronic. They both cost about the same. But yes, I agree Rob, start with mechanical. On a 5ver that's not possible though...
If you really want to be safe, go mechanical and electronic. They both cost about the same. But yes, I agree Rob, start with mechanical. On a 5ver that's not possible though...
In theory the fifth wheel is not frictionless and that slight drag does help with anti sway until it reaches an uncontrollable amount. The worst sway occurs when the trailer chassis starts rocking on the springs and oscillates from side to side causing the horizontal sway to start. The full size OTR air ride trailers use shock absorbers to combat this since there is no control of rebound with air ride.
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