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08 5.4 timing

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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 12:58 PM
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08 5.4 timing

So im replacing a timing set on a 08 Ford F250 5.4 3v triton engine with 215,000 km on the engine.

Messed up and removed the cam phasers and what not but forgot to position the crank at the 12 o clock position before I uninstalled everything.

Can I just reinstall everything tight enough it will stay in place and get everything lined up, then uninstall and reinstall the new kit?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 05:38 PM
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before all the flaming starts..

I would remove all the rocker arms. so all valves are closed.

rotate crankshaft to proper location...
rotate camshaft(s) to proper location..

then start the assembly.


but that's me.
.
.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kurtis L
So im replacing a timing set on a 08 Ford F250 5.4 3v triton engine with 215,000 km on the engine.

Messed up and removed the cam phasers and what not but forgot to position the crank at the 12 o clock position before I uninstalled everything.

Can I just reinstall everything tight enough it will stay in place and get everything lined up, then uninstall and reinstall the new kit?
Please clarify your point quoted in bold red. To time these engines correctly, the mark (dot) on the crankshaft sprocket should be positioned at the six o'clock position, NOT twelve o'clock. The cam sprockets/phasers I believe are identical. You simply install them onto the cams, lining up the marks on the timing chains to correspond to the 'L' mark on the driver side bank, and to the 'R' mark on the passenger side chain.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
Please clarify your point quoted in bold red. To time these engines correctly, the mark (dot) on the crankshaft sprocket should be positioned at the six o'clock position, NOT twelve o'clock. The cam sprockets/phasers I believe are identical. You simply install them onto the cams, lining up the marks on the timing chains to correspond to the 'L' mark on the driver side bank, and to the 'R' mark on the passenger side chain.
Sorry just re-read and your right, dunno why I was thinking 12 o clock, I was actually reading one of your posts in a different thread.

Any suggestions on how to get the crank to the 6 o clock position, since I messed up and took the chains and phasers off?

Originally Posted by Chuck's First Ford
before all the flaming starts..

I would remove all the rocker arms. so all valves are closed.

rotate crankshaft to proper location...
rotate camshaft(s) to proper location..

then start the assembly.


but that's me.
.
.
Alright thanks. I'd like to not uninstall all the valves but if I can't find any other way I guess I don't have a choice

So little bit of a problem, when I opened the timing cover i noticed the guide bolt that goes thru the oil pump was backed out but didn't really inspect it as it was already pretty late.

Well today I finished uninstalling everything and was going to uninstall the oil pump and found that it rubbed a hole under the original hole, and im guessing killed the threads it bolts into. I have a new oil pump, but could I retap the hole and install one of those wire threads?


 
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 07:01 AM
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You could pop the followers out from under the cams to rotate the crank safely or you could pull the cams out. Either way would get the valves closed so the crank can spin freely. Oh and youll want the spark plugs out also.

Could you take a picture a little further back of that hole that is messed up. Im trying to locate it and cant make it out.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by lwarrior1016
You could pop the followers out from under the cams to rotate the crank safely or you could pull the cams out. Either way would get the valves closed so the crank can spin freely. Oh and youll want the spark plugs out also.

Could you take a picture a little further back of that hole that is messed up. Im trying to locate it and cant make it out.
Awesome I forgot I could take the cams out. I'd rather do this than to pop the rocker followers out, just to double check, to pull the cam I just follow the detorque sequence, move the cam/crank to proper position then reinstall? Do the cams have to be completely out or can I just get them real loose and turn them?

Here's a few better pictures. It's the drivers side lower oil pump bolt that doubles as one of the guide bolts. Here's the pics.








 
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 11:45 AM
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Just loosen the cam evenly so it doesnt bind in the head (if it does and something breaks, well, then there are much bigger problems lol). You dont have to take it all the way out but at that point it wont really matter.

As for that oil pump hole, the bolt goes though the pump body and bolts to the block right? Have you pulled it off and looked at the block to see if the threads are ok? You might be in good shape.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by lwarrior1016
Just loosen the cam evenly so it doesnt bind in the head (if it does and something breaks, well, then there are much bigger problems lol). You dont have to take it all the way out but at that point it wont really matter.

As for that oil pump hole, the bolt goes though the pump body and bolts to the block right? Have you pulled it off and looked at the block to see if the threads are ok? You might be in good shape.
Awesome thanks very much, I'll get the oil pump off after I drop my kids off at school after lunch. I'll get a few pics when it's off.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by kurtis L
Awesome thanks very much, I'll get the oil pump off after I drop my kids off at school after lunch. I'll get a few pics when it's off.

Cool, keep us updated.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by lwarrior1016
Cool, keep us updated.
Alright so it didn't destroy the bolt hole, didn't even realize until I put the other bolts side by side with the one that was backed out, but it broke the bolt in the hole.



I've never rethreaded a bolt hole but Ive got an extractor kit (hopefully the right size) and I've done a few bolt extractions so it shouldn't be too bad to get it fixed up and carrying on with the process.

Is there an easy way to remove the pickup tube with the pan still in place or does the pan have to be removed to pull/clean out the pickup tube? I Got the 2 that bolt to the oil pump pretty easy with just a 8mm wrench. Hoping to avoid dropping the pan but I've had a 5.4 that was seized because the oil pickup was packed with guide and boy it was a mess. The crank bearings were litterally melted to the crankshaft. So if dropping the pan is a must I guess that'll be the project for this afternoon lol.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 02:32 PM
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The pan definitely has to come down to get the pickup tube off and cleaned. Are you thinking about checking the bearings while you are down there?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 02:34 PM
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Good luck with the extraction though. I know it sucks. Do you have a good quality set of extractors?
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by lwarrior1016
The pan definitely has to come down to get the pickup tube off and cleaned. Are you thinking about checking the bearings while you are down there?
Alright thanks, I was hoping to not have to drop the pan but guess there's no way around it. With the F250's the engine has to be raised a bit right? Anyway to do so with a floor jack? I have hoists in the garage but im doing the timing in my parking space and Id rather not get it towed into the garage lol. Yea I might as well check out the bearings and what not while I'm down in there.

Originally Posted by lwarrior1016
Good luck with the extraction though. I know it sucks. Do you have a good quality set of extractors?
Yea a friend has a set of i believe snap on extractors, but I didn't even need to extract it. Started drilling into it and I guess the drill bit got enough bite on the broken parts and spun it out the back side into the oil pan. Or at least I hope that it drops into the oil pan lol. Sounded like the oil pan anyways. I guess I'll find out when I pull the pan to clean the pickup tube/inspect the bearings
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 08:07 PM
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So I pulled the spark plugs today and broke 6 out of 8 lol. Oops. But lucked out looking for a lisle tool and found one listed on ebay local to me. Hopefully he will let me arrange local pickup for the tool.

gonna rain tomorrow so I'll have to cover it up with a tarp and finish this weekend hopefully. Minus spark plugs because Ford wants $30 a plug where im from.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 09:51 PM
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Sorry I'm a little late to the party, but I'd be more concerned about where all the rubbed off fragments of metal ended, and how much damage (if any) it did at this point from those pictures. If you're going to inspect crank bearings, it sure wouldn't hurt to inspect cam bearings on the top end as well. The last thing you want, is to throw in new phasers and whatnot, only to have them fail again shortly after, due to all the residual metal filings floating around inside.
 
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