How is my alignment?
Fast forward about a year. Tires are wearing in a perfect wedge patteren from full tread on the outsides to no tread on the insides. I got a hopefully "straight" axle and stuck it in. My numbers have gotten alot better but I still don't know if it's good enough, especially the toe.
Before:
After:
Thanks
With the old axle, your alignment numbers seem to say that you have the correct camber on the right side and more or less no camber on the left side. Did you notice any difference from the left to the right tire wear? What size tires are you running? Sometimes it's impossible to get wide tires to wear flat and even.
What type of driving do you do? Caster combined with camber can cause the tire to roll over when you turn, this can lead to a lot of inside or outside wear of a tire if you drive a lot of twisty roads. The same can be said if you drive a lot of freeway miles on roads that have ruts, this can cause you to have to always be driving "up" the rut and will kill tires pretty fast.
A test you can do for tire wear is to paint a stripe on each tire tread and drive a bit, then look at what is being worn off. Your camber can be adjusted but it's pretty involved (ball joint sleeves or spindle shims), caster can be adjusted with wedges between the axle and the leaf.
With the old axle, your alignment numbers seem to say that you have the correct camber on the right side and more or less no camber on the left side. Did you notice any difference from the left to the right tire wear? What size tires are you running? Sometimes it's impossible to get wide tires to wear flat and even.
What type of driving do you do? Caster combined with camber can cause the tire to roll over when you turn, this can lead to a lot of inside or outside wear of a tire if you drive a lot of twisty roads. The same can be said if you drive a lot of freeway miles on roads that have ruts, this can cause you to have to always be driving "up" the rut and will kill tires pretty fast.
A test you can do for tire wear is to paint a stripe on each tire tread and drive a bit, then look at what is being worn off. Your camber can be adjusted but it's pretty involved (ball joint sleeves or spindle shims), caster can be adjusted with wedges between the axle and the leaf.
What I'm trying to figure out is if the rear axle is close enough to not burn the tires off or is the axle still shifted?
I think you are in good shape.
Interesting the difference in front axle readings after 2 weeks - You may need some new ball joints.
But for the rear you are good.... just run it.
Get a good set of tires on there, and keep an eye on them to see how they wear. But you should be way better off.
Unk Bob
The hit could also have damaged the centering pin on the leaf spring. Was it checked and replaced? It could easily throw the thrust off.
I have over 20 years in collision work and do all of the alignments in my shop. I have seen some strange things.
The rear numbers are definitely better than yours, however I still think you are good enough to run it and not see funky tire wear or behavior. MShelton brings up a good point about the L/R difference...could be slightly tweaked but not sure I would bother with it to be honest.
My printout:









