Overheating
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Overheating
Greetings,
I have a 1996 Ford F-250 w/460 engine.
Months ago the water pump went. Pump was changed. Ever since then the temp gage climbs up and down erratically.
Thermostat was replaced 2 times.
Sensor replaced
Thermostat was removed and problem went away. Came back when re-installed.
Used heat gun. Thermostat rated for 195F. Temperature climbed 230 and was still climbing and gage was at 3/4 idling after 45 minute drive.
I am thinking it is a radiator or flow problem? Or we can point to the ultimate "head gasket" replacement? Or maybe add fans in front of radiator. But that does not make sense since it ran fine prior to the water pump failure.
However - it remains at 1/4 on gage when thermostat is removed. I do think the gage is working, per the gun test.
This is all been going on too long.
Thoughts?
Wayne
I have a 1996 Ford F-250 w/460 engine.
Months ago the water pump went. Pump was changed. Ever since then the temp gage climbs up and down erratically.
Thermostat was replaced 2 times.
Sensor replaced
Thermostat was removed and problem went away. Came back when re-installed.
Used heat gun. Thermostat rated for 195F. Temperature climbed 230 and was still climbing and gage was at 3/4 idling after 45 minute drive.
I am thinking it is a radiator or flow problem? Or we can point to the ultimate "head gasket" replacement? Or maybe add fans in front of radiator. But that does not make sense since it ran fine prior to the water pump failure.
However - it remains at 1/4 on gage when thermostat is removed. I do think the gage is working, per the gun test.
This is all been going on too long.
Thoughts?
Wayne
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 4
From: Washington
You never mentioned that you replaced the water pump.
Do you still have a fan shroud? Stopped idle temps will increase without one, but driving temps will be normal.
Do you have rust deposits under the radiator cap? If so replace or clean the radiator.
When the gauge acts erratically, does it spike then drop down, and remain in the same spot after that? This is the T-stat opening late because of deposits stuck to it.
Do you still have a fan shroud? Stopped idle temps will increase without one, but driving temps will be normal.
Do you have rust deposits under the radiator cap? If so replace or clean the radiator.
When the gauge acts erratically, does it spike then drop down, and remain in the same spot after that? This is the T-stat opening late because of deposits stuck to it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
From what you describe, I would think you got some bad thermostats(I prefer Ford or Stant) or the system is not purging properly with the thermostat installed.
In your shoes I would get yet another thermostat and not drain the system, just take the thermostat housing loose and lose what coolant necessary and install the new thermostat and top it up with coolant.
In your shoes I would get yet another thermostat and not drain the system, just take the thermostat housing loose and lose what coolant necessary and install the new thermostat and top it up with coolant.
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@mrollings53:
Yes. The water was replaced. Interesting about the fan shroud. I am not sure. Will have to look when I get home this evening. I did not see an abnormalities in the coolant itself. It is normal. Then spikes up. Then drops back down. It repeats this process. I am pretty sure the cap is clean. Thanks. Good points.
@88n94:
A new Ford was just put in.
Yes. The water was replaced. Interesting about the fan shroud. I am not sure. Will have to look when I get home this evening. I did not see an abnormalities in the coolant itself. It is normal. Then spikes up. Then drops back down. It repeats this process. I am pretty sure the cap is clean. Thanks. Good points.
@88n94:
A new Ford was just put in.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,319
Likes: 1,298
From: Central Mississippi
Unless the replacement sending unit is a Motorcraft, Clean up the threads & put the old one back in. (We are talking about the 1-wire sender on the drivers side/font of intake, right?)
Whatever T-stat you are using, drill a 3/16 hole in face of T-stat & when you put it back in, index it to 12 o'clock. It will reduce the chance of air/steam being trapped in the housing.
I don't trust temp guns, you're measuring the metal rather than the fluid inside. The other thing is if the gauge is not pegged right, You're still within "normal" range.
If you're worried about actual temp, put a relatively inexpensive mechanical gauge on it. Trying to extrapolate temps from positions of N-O-R-M-A-L is an exercise in frustration.
Whatever T-stat you are using, drill a 3/16 hole in face of T-stat & when you put it back in, index it to 12 o'clock. It will reduce the chance of air/steam being trapped in the housing.
I don't trust temp guns, you're measuring the metal rather than the fluid inside. The other thing is if the gauge is not pegged right, You're still within "normal" range.
If you're worried about actual temp, put a relatively inexpensive mechanical gauge on it. Trying to extrapolate temps from positions of N-O-R-M-A-L is an exercise in frustration.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 372
Likes: 5
From: 85716
With engine cold, leave the radiator cap off.
Start engine. Let idle until it warms up (and thermostat fully opens).
Add water to radiator then. Add water to expansion tank then.
Rev the engine and re-add water as necessary.
You should get a lot of air burps once the thermostat fully opens.
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