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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

1 Step Forward and 2 Steps back

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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 10:39 AM
  #1  
1952 Ford's Avatar
1952 Ford
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From: NorCal
1 Step Forward and 2 Steps back

Yesterday I took my truck driving for the first time since I finished rewiring to 12v . The only way for me to get it started however was by playing with the choke adjustment and spraying starter fluid. Without the starter fluid it would not start. Even when I shut it off then tried to start it warm, still needed fluid. Ideally I'd like to get to a point where I can start it without having to take the air filter off every time to spray fluid down the carb. I honestly cannot figure out why it won't just start on its own. Any ideas?
Another thing is while it is running it idles really high, and I thought to fix it I'd mess with the carburetor idle adjustment screw, but that didn't seem to change anything. Besides those two issues it drives fine, I'd just like to get to a point where I can drive it without having to worry about not being able to start it if I turn it off.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 11:12 AM
  #2  
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CTEarlyFords
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From: Torrington CT
The spraying to get it started and he high idle that isn't effected by the idle adjustment screws points to vacuum leak. First thing since I'm assuming you had it all torn apart for the rewrire double check and make sure you didn't leave a line off somewhere. Then if it isn't that easy when it's running take some of the spray and spray around the intake see if a certain spot changes the sound of the motor or how it runs. That's the vacuum leak.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 11:29 AM
  #3  
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Kurt G.
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From: Richland, WA.
Hey I just thought of another thing to look at, CT is right about the vacuum leaks and high idle as well as difficulty in starting but when you converted to 12v what did you do to coil power? The 12v system needs full 12v at start during crank then after that voltage drops during run mode. Often there is a separate wire going to coil "+" side from ignition switch. The points will burn if they have constant 12v. The wire feeding the coil I believe is a resistence wire. But check the vacuum leaks first starting fluid with breather on should give results if not then teardown arb and look inside there may be a torn gasket or something.
 
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