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That yellow arrow points to what I believe is called a stepper motor, for controlling idle speed. On that same photo, the two wires running to the driver's side of the carburetor will be going to the solenoid on the carburetor, which controls the richness/leanness. The other two wires which disappear under the carburetor vent hose go to a purge valve [? if that is what it is called] which controls the gas vapors between the carb bowl and the charcoal canister.
That yellow arrow points to what I believe is called a stepper motor, for controlling idle speed. On that same photo, the two wires running to the driver's side of the carburetor will be going to the solenoid on the carburetor, which controls the richness/leanness. The other two wires which disappear under the carburetor vent hose goes to a purge valve [? if that is what it is called] which controls the gas vapors between the carb bowl and the charcoal canister.
So, it is a feedback carb. Good spotting, Chris and David!
Now, to pull codes........ Over to Chris and his question to Brian.
I don't want to take over from Chris, but Autozone should have the test light if not an analog DVM. I think the test light might be the easiest to use and will be the least expensive.
Feel free to take from me, Gary, I'm busy working on a bumper that I might be bringing out there. Had an idea, am headed over to Rob (machinist) to see if his dishwasher/stripper/boiler stuff can handle something this big. I really doubt it but he's close by.
Brian - either should work (test light or analog meter) but the test light is probably easier to use.
Most important thing, do NOT disconnect that STI jumper while it is spewing its codes, doing that erases them from the computer's memory and you're going through all this trouble to *get* them.
It'll prolly take you some time to experiment and figure out what it's telling you, there are some youtube videos of people doing it with a test light if you want to do some homework before then.
Oh, and there are people (videos) of people using the Check Engine light, you can use those as an example to learn from, too, since the blinking is the same.
Oh, and there are people (videos) of people using the Check Engine light, you can use those as an example to learn from, too, since the blinking is the same.
On the 1985, I do not believe he has a "true" check engine light, Chris. Remember some time back, I believe you posted something about the mechanism [Inferred mileage sensor?] which trips the "emissions light", but it is based on some time interval, not a signal from the computer.
So here is someone who is actually going to try and fix his computer controlled six. Let's see how this goes, if it's even possible in this day and time.
So here is someone who is actually going to try and fix his computer controlled six. Let's see how this goes, if it's even possible in this day and time.
On the 1985, I do not believe he has a "true" check engine light, Chris. Remember some time back, I believe you posted something about the mechanism [Inferred mileage sensor?] which trips the "emissions light", but it is based on some time interval, not a signal from the computer.
Yes, we don't have CELs in these things... but the later models that *do* have them (1988+ I believe) blink their CEL just like the test light will blink, I'm just explaining he can go watch those videos just as an example of what he will be seeing.
To swap out everything and bypass the comp just seems like too much of a project at this point. Just want to get this thing on the road and running.... Even if i only get 4 mpg lol. Gas it cheap by me right now. Its 1.80. The only electric i still have at this point is rear blinkers, radio, and the windshield washer sounds good but bothing comes out. Stripped and seized bolts and screws have really dragged everything out.
We aren't advocating a change away from computer-controlled. Basically all we are saying is that your thinking is unusual because the vast majority of guys have the mentality of ripping the computer out and going old-school.
Having said that, be aware that it may be an uphill road getting everything "right". And the computer requires everything to be right before it'll properly control ignition timing. But without it controlling ignition timing you'll be way down on power and getting very poor MPG. However, we don't know that everything isn't "right", and won't know until you check for codes this weekend. Good luck!