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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Sep 10, 2016 | 07:36 PM
  #16  
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Gary, all of that stuff looks chinese to me lol. Is there any pictures that I can take to confirm any of them?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2016 | 07:39 PM
  #17  
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California does not apply to me. This truck has never been registered anywhere other than jersey. Here is a tip I can actually give. If you list your truck for sale on ebay for a few minutes( with no info or an absurd price) you can get a free VIN check by viewing the post from outside as if you were a seeking buyer!
 
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Old Sep 10, 2016 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian0819
Gary, all of that stuff looks chinese to me lol. Is there any pictures that I can take to confirm any of them?
Actually, it is pretty simple:
  • M/T = manual transmission
  • A/T is automatic
  • 4/W/D is 4 wheel drive
  • 2/W/D is 2 wheel drive
  • exc. Calif means except a vehicle built for Cali
  • Hi-altitude carb. means one built for high altitude
  • C6-U/8500 lb. GVW means it has a C6 automatic and the Gross Vehicle Weight is under 8500 pounds
You should be able to determine most of this on a label just ahead of the radiator on the passenger's side. Show us a pic of that label and also the Certification Label on the driver's door jamb.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 09:16 AM
  #19  
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 09:47 AM
  #20  
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Gary's site has on it a place where you can decode the certification label, try this:

Certification Label - ???Gary's Garagemahal

And, thank you for posting the pictures right-side up.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 03:22 PM
  #21  
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The label says it should have a feedback carb. Do you have electrical connections to your carb? If not it isn't a feedback carb. Perhaps someone put the right tag on the wrong carb. But w/o wires the computer is going to be UPSET and the timing will be locked.


 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 10:16 PM
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I wonder if that carb on there right now came from a JY or some such, that's a good thought that maybe somebody transferred over the ID tag.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 05:11 AM
  #23  
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Hm... The only electrical going to the carb is for the tps and the choke. Spent hours yesterday just trying to work on my brakes. Replaced a couple lines. But the bleeder screws took way to much time to get out. Didnt even get to bleed them.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 05:17 AM
  #24  
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So if i am supposed to have a feedback carb, do i have to get a new carb or is ghere another solution?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian0819
So if i am supposed to have a feedback carb, do i have to get a new carb or is ghere another solution?
It hasn't sunk in yet I see. You have a serious setup problem with your engine. If you want to delay working on it, it will probably run, but not very good. You have two choices;

Get the correct carb, hook all the wires and hoses back up as original, and really learn how this electronic carb system works so you can work on it. Or

Change the distributor out with a older style and older style ignition module. Then you won't need the computer to work.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 07:01 AM
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Which would be the best bet? I assume getting the correct carb would be the easiest and right way to go right?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 07:46 AM
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Changing the distributor is by FAR the best way to go. The feedback system was complex and difficult to maintain for those that know what they are doing. The DS-II system is very simple and reliable.

As for how, go read post #9.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 09:18 AM
  #28  
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Wait a minute... Post #1 shows one of the carb's solenoids! Maybe he can just pull the codes and go from there (Gary, it's really not that hard, but trying to teach people this stuff on a forum like this is difficult):

 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 09:29 AM
  #29  
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If that is on the carb, then it must be a feedback. So, maybe things aren't as bad as I thought.

I'd try to pull codes, like you suggest, and check that the timing is changing. If the timing is changing then it isn't in limp-home mode.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 09:33 AM
  #30  
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Brian - do you have an analog voltmeter or a test light?

Ford Ranger - Testing EEC-IV Equipped Engines
 
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