I would like to introduce myself and thank everyone for the excellent job that you do helping others. I just signed up, but I have been lurking since I bought my truck. I bought my truck about a month ago as a project from a guy who was throwing money at it. He ran a tire/mechanic shop, and he got the truck from a customer who owed him a some money. He said he drove it about 3-6 months, and it was having intermittent power loss. It finally got to where it wouldn't run well at all most of the time. He put 7 new injectors (didn't get number 8 because the place he bought them from didn't have it in stock, and he just wanted to see if that would fix it), new valve cover gaskets and under valve cover harness, new ICP sensor, new ebp sensor, new high pressure oil pump, two used IDM's and new engine wiring harness. I may be forgetting something, but you get the drift.

He told me that he dropped the tank, and the pickup was missing. He put that back on. I asked some indirect questions about the screens in the tank, but they hadn't messed with them. He said all of the cylinders compression checked out between 380-390psi. He said he was tired of the truck, and it wasn't worth wasting his time and money on it.

Now here is where I come in. The truck smoked a lot (white with the smell of diesel). It had no power when I went to test drive it, and I wasn't going to buy it. The owner got in, and we drove maybe a quarter-half a mile and it was like flipping a switch. I figured it had to be something small so I bought it. The first thing I did was drop the tank. I cleaned it, did the hutch and harpoon mod and added the Racor ps120-02 fuel filter assy. pre screen. The screens were almost completely stopped up. I am surprised it could get diesel through them at all. I cleaned on some skinned wires and other odds and ends under the hood. Still no change.

I checked the resistance of the pins for the glow plugs and injectors on the large harness on the drivers side. The glow plugs all checked out good. MY results for the injectors were as follows:

The passenger side bank all checked out at 3.1-3.2
2 - 3.6
4 - 4.6
6 - 3.6
8 - 4.2

I used a generic scanner and the codes came back for the intake air temperature sensor (1) and exhaust back pressure sensor. The intake air sensor had been chewed off by a rat so I got one out of the pick a parts. They had changed the ebps, but they didn't clean the tube. I took the tube off, cleaned it and put it back. The codes kept saying it was no good so I ordered a new motorcraft one. It still smoked bad, but I think it was a little better.


I really wanted to avoid buying auto enginuity right off the bat, but after reading about it here and other sights, I felt like it was way cheaper than throwing parts at it like the last guy. I received it yesterday about midday. When I hooked it up, I did a buzz test first off. They all sounded really strong. The 6 was maybe a tad off, but it still sounded strong. I cleared out the codes, and the only thing that came back was the p0475. I got to looking for the valve last night, and I discovered the wires being cut or chewed off right at the plug. I couldn't find the wires that go to it last night or today.

I warmed up the engine, and did a cylinder contribution test and the perdel test. Codes for cylinders 2, 4, and 8 failed the contribution. When I looked at the perdel, 2 and 4 were between 2-4% but 8 was at 9%. I figured 8 had not been changed out according to the original owner, so I decided to go ahead get one. I called around, and found one at the same place where the original owner said he had gotten his. They had it in stock, and I made it there before they closed.

I took it all apart after lunch, and I put the new injector in. I got it put back together and started, and I immediately felt a difference in the truck. I drove it for a test run in the neighborhood, that turned into about a 10-15 drive. I drove it hard trying to get all the air out. I stopped and filled it up with diesel, and checked the perdel numbers while filling up. They were all sub 1.0 with the exception of number 8. It was between 3-4%, but I understand that that is normal. I got it back home, and I turned it off to check everything out.

When I turned it back on, it lost power like it did before. The perdel numbers were off the wall for cylinders 2, 4, and 8. Two and four were between 4-6% and 8 was like 11%. It dumbfounded me. I did a KOEO test, and a P1294 code came up. It was pretty warm, so I let it cool so while I came in here to do a web search. Now, I know that is a drivers side bank code. And what I read, it is most likely the under valve cover harness not connected well. I ran an errand, and when I came back I did a buzz test. It sounded just like the one I did yesterday. I cranked it up again, and took a screen shot of my perdel test. 2-5.1%, 4-4.5%,6-0.7% and 8-2.4%. The passenger side was all 0.0.

It was still to warm to dig into it, but I would like some feed back. If it buzz tests fine, but it perdels poorly, could it still be that harness? I cleared out the p1294 code, and it doesn't come back now. I seriously doubt that he put motorcraft valve cover gaskets in it ( the part number on his printout of all that he did to the truck comes back as a felpro), should I go ahead and get a motorcraft valve cover gasket and under cover harness?

I know this is a long post, especially for a first post, but I would really appreciate your feed back if you have time. I really do appreciate all of the help that I have received already from previous threads. Thank y'all in advance.

 

It's early and coffee still brewing, but I'd start with jamming a quarter in the uvch(shave water to Washington's head)..50 cent mod, and go from there.

 

A set of UVCH are cheap. On the other hand, if they are relatively new, carefully check the connector to the vehicle harness.

Depending on which kind are on there, the plastic locking clip on the Dormans can be tricky to get not-upside-down

Also inspect the connector for damaged pins or sockets.

If you have wiring damage, check to be sure nothing has been laying on the engine or other metal area and rubbing through or shorting.

Have you replaced the rubber lines on the intake side of the fuel pump and at the tank? The quick disconnect fittings there fatigue (orings) and it sucks air.

Air = Anchor to a diesel

Do you have a way to test the fuel pressure? Make sure you use one for diesel that goes to 100psi, not a gasser up to 15 or 30psi

Hope this helps a bit

 

Thank y'all so much for the replies. I am about to go out and try to get it going. Hopefully it will be as easy as fixing it with a quarter. I will be a little more vigilant inspecting the harness, uvc gasket, and connections than when I replaced the injector.

It supposed to be relatively new. You may be right, that I just need to go ahead and pay to replace it. I just hate that it is Saturday. I don't think I will be able to find a ford or international dealer open today if I need the gasket and/or harness. I really don't want an aftermarket one.

As far as the fuel line, I did replace the suction side of the fuel line. I left the factory connection on the return line, and I have not seen any leeks. I have a fuel pressure gauge. I checked the pressure on the upper port of the filter housing, and it showed between 53-60 psi. It was around 60 sitting in park. It would be about 53-55 when I tried to mash on it before I fixed the injector. At that point, it poured out white smoke that smelled like diesel. Sometimes were worse than others, but when it was bad, it just seemed to be a fog around when it was running. I am going to check out the UVC gasket and wiring, and if that doesn't fix it, I will check the fuel line connections just to make sure. I have not checked the fuel pressure since I changed the injector, but I don't think that is the problem. I could be wrong, but the more I look and read about it, I think it has to be something with the wiring.

Now, It doesn't smoke like it did. When I left on my test run yesterday, It smoked for the first few miles really bad, but I am guessing that is from the residual diesel/oil left in the exhaust and cylinder from the injector change. I got all that I could out of the cylinder, but I understand that it is normal for them to smoke pretty bad after injector work. I stomped on it up to about 60 mph, and then let off to slow down. I repeated this about 2-3 more times, and the smoke pretty much went away. I don't think it smoked again until I got it back home after the test run and it started acting up again. Even then, it is nothing like it was. As soon as I got home, the exhaust smelled like what a diesel engine should smell like. No real smell of diesel. I grew up on a farm, and I don't know how else to describe it. Before, it smoked no matter what. Now, it pushes out a little puff if you push the accelerator a little. No lingering cloud of diesel.

Thank again for the input. I will let y'all know what I find.

 

Sounds like one side is dropping the common to injectors. Pin 42 gets corroded on the connector.

Almost sounds like you didn't get all the air out or the oil. Once running smooth turn off engine and see if you hear it gurgle. That means air is still present. Can take 100 miles to get air out.

 

Alright, so I checked the resistance first thing, and I got 6.1 ohms across the board on the drivers side bank at the big connector. I start pulling it apart. There is no clip that holds the wiring harness to the valve cover!!!! I can see where it was, but it was broken off completely smooth at some point. I started watching youtube videos last night about the quarter trick, and for the life of me, I couldn't remember how the clip was attached. I didn't know better when I was messing with it yesterday. When I hold the harness together, the ohms bounce all over the place. I called around, and the only local ford dealership that has one wants about 180 bucks plus tax (I think that is 10% for their state and local) for the vc gasket and under valve cover harness. The parts house has a dorman for 70 for the combo, but I can get both of the motorcraft online for 124 bucks to my doorstep. I don't have good feelings about dorman stuff, so I will probably wait to put it back together with motorcraft parts that I buy online. I don't understand why dealerships charge so much. If it was close, I would just buy local, but it would be about 70 more bucks and an hour and a half round trip.

 

Dormans are good, and at 55 bucks thru rockauto, under "engine"

 

where in ga are u?

I broke my ebp sensor and the local ford wanted a lot more for it. I told them I could get it for less in Motorcraft online and they came within $10

 

I am in Lagrange. The Ford price I was quoted was just over the state line in Alabama. I took the word of timmyboy76 on the dorman. I bought it local and the injectors ohm out at 3.1 each. I am in the process of getting it back together right now

 

Ok, now what? I have it all back together, but it is still not right. I check the resistance at the 42 pin connector, and they all ohm between 3.1-3.2 on both sides. When I cranked it up, it seemed like it was running good. I was cleaning up my tools and letting it warm up before I took it on a test ride. I went inside, and when I came back, it is running like a dog. It threw the p1294 code again. Knottyrope, what is your recommendation on cleaning the connector? The male side may have some corrosion on it. Most of the pins are not that shiny. I guess I am leaning towards a common at this point, but I am not sure on how to correct this. I didn't hear any gurgle after cutting it off, but I wouldn't say that I would rule that out just yet.

I guess I need to check my fuel line connections as recommended earlier. I guess it is possible that it is sucking air. But that shouldn't have anything to do with that code right? What else could this be? Is there anyway to check the resistance on the male side of the 42 pin connector? If so, what should the ohms be? My dad drives a company truck that is the same year, engine and transmission, but he lives 4 hours away. I wish I could borrow his IDM. I don't know anyone else that has one that I could borrow. Is the IDM even a possibility, or would that never correct itself? The Dorman kit came with a plug that you can splice into the existing wiring harness on the outside of the valve cover. I didn't put that on, but that should not be the problem since it ohmed out right? All advice and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks for the help so far.

 

I ohm'd out the IDM harness this morning, and the resistance all came back between 3.1-3.4. Does this mean my IDM is bad? Is there a way to test the IDM? It is still throwing the P1294 code and running like crap. It buzz tests fine. Any suggestions?

 

if you have a broken wire, it can OHM ok but then you jiggle it or heat it up and can cause more resistance




You can do a load test on the wires using a 60 watt 12v bulb, connect bulb to injector plug and apply 12v to the other end but make sure you put a 10 amp fuse inline in case of a short. If a wire burns up, light will go out and you found your issue.

 

Ok, I am going to try and follow you on this knottyrope. Your saying to take the valve cover on the drivers side, unplug the injectors, attach a bulb to the injector plug, apply 12 volts on the harness that has been disconnected from the IDM. Do this for each of the 4 drivers side bank injectors. If there is a problem with one of the wires, the light will tell me.

 

I am stuck with this. I got busy with work last fall and didn't have time to work on this anymore. Last weekend, I decided to get back at it. The update on everything is that I pulled the wiring harness out of the truck from the 42 pin connector going toward the engine. Pulled the electrical tape and wire loom off. All of the wires look brand new except for right where they come out from the wire loom, and there they were just dirty. I did not remove the harness from the IDM to the 42 pin connector out of the truck, but I took the loom back about 6 inches to a foot from the 42 pin connector and the IDM, and the wire looked great. When I ohm everything out at the IDM, they are all 3.1-3.4. I bought an IDM that I stumbled across in a 2003 7.3 van at the pick a parts. I figured for 40 bucks, it was worth picking up. I have no idea if it is good, but the engine runs the exact same with it. Is there a ground that could be lose or something? All of the injectors on the drivers side squirt oil out when running. The buzz test passes successfully both cold and when the engine oil has been warmed up. If I run a cylinder contribution test 2,4, and 8 fail, with 8 failing miserably. The few times this truck has run good since I bought it, it is unbelievably stout. Every other time, it is basically in limp mode. Last weekend, while having the drivers side valve cover off, I unplugged each injector individually on the drivers side. Performance was effected the same on all of them. It is like it is running on the drivers side too, but just not good. What am I missing here? Could this still be the IDM? Is it worth opening the IDM to see what it looks like in there? Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

For future reference, I changed the number 4 injector after removing all of the solenoids and measuring the poppet valve clearance with a feeler gauge. It was supposedly a remanufactured injector, but it measured 15 thousands clearance. I guess it was close enough to work sometimes, and and sometimes it wouldn't. After I changed the injector, I was able to chase down the trucks other problems by driving and autoenginuity because the truck was finally drivable. I ended up changing the icp (someone had put a parts house 6.0 one on it) and rebuilding the IPR. This all happened back in August/September. I had a pretty nasty oil leak that only leaked at sustained rpms such as going down the interstate. I fixed that this weekend. It ended up being the inspection plate on the front of the hpop reservoir. The truck has fresh rotella 15-40 oil in it (less than 1000 miles). I may end up getting my injectors gone through by rosewood diesel since I am not sure of the quality of the remanufacture. I went ahead and flushed the coolant system and added the rotella red coolant back. Thanks for all of the replies on this