Hey guys,
I don't think I have ever owned a car\truck with a manual transmission.
I've driven plenty, just never owned one, and in truth I still don't
but I have a 292 Y Block with a 3 spd behind it
I've done a bunch of reading today, conversions to a T5, T&C OD
but decided to just stay with what I have for now.
It has 11" clutch disc, the pressure plate looks clean, no blue spots
or scratches. the clutch faces does look worn.
So how do I go about buying a new set of clutch plates?
Also since this motor came out of a 62 F100, it has a hydraulic
slave cylinder, can anyone explain how this is plumbed? there is a
hose line that has been cut, have no idea where it would go to or
will go to if and when I find a truck for this motor.
Best
Dave

 

There are many opinions at the type of clutch plates and pressure plates. I prefer the 3 finger pressure plate, not the diaphragm type. The slave cylinder is operated by a master hooked up to the clutch pedal linkage. The plumbing is usually just a hose from the master to the slave.

 

OK, thanks for the assist
best

 

Why 3 finger style instead of the diaphragm type?

Just asking.

 

I have personally seen fingers on the diaphragm type snap off on more than one pressure plate. I just don't trust them.

 

But who is a good clutch company, made in USA!!!
I see (ASM), Eaton,
I would like a new "kit" that is above stock organic

 

This outfit that I have been buying clutches from these guys for 30+ years is family owned and have used their clutches in many applications from Hot Rods, work trucks & racing applications. Just tell them of any concerns, what you have, etc and they will discuss with you what their recommendations are...I can honestly state that I have never had and issue with anything I have every purchased from them and it always works the 1st time- just like it is suppose to! They typically cost less than most of the competitors, provide 24 hour turn-around and the assemblies always work (literally) just exactly the way they should....I just can't say enough about these guys. Just tell them what you have, how you use it and any concerns/issues.

Unless you need a “Gorilla Type Clutch”, their FX200 series will more than suffice for most street or street strip applications…..and it’s priced about the same as an oem replacement unit.

Clutchmasters
267 E. Valley Blvd.
Rialto, CA
909-877-6800

I am also not a fan of most of the "mail order" clutch guru's for street use vehicles and that includes McLeod, etc. A good local clutch rebuilder is best to purchase from.....in most cases they have access to the same or better components, have direct experience with the vehicle you specifically have, have direct knowledge of general drivetrain/chassis issues, are faster and cheaper than most of the oem replacement units.

 

Thanks BeechKid
Rialto is not that far from me, I'm in Torrance.
I'll give them a call.
Best

 

Also, consider the warranty, close is good. 4 wheel parts is closer to you.

 

yes, 4 wheel is not far from me..
thanks
Dave

 

No 1961/66 F100/350 came with a hydraulic clutch.

The only F100/350's from this time frame that came with hydraulic clutches were 1957/60's.

 

Interesting... So the bell housing is from an earlier car\truck
guess I need to get the casting number for the bell housing
Thanks
PS: Do you have suggestion for a new clutch\pressure plate.
"Make"

 

Engler Brothers Auto Parts on Pico Blvd (closer to Sepulveda than to Lincoln) in Santa Monica, the best dang auto parts store for older vehicles here in LA LA Land.

Santa Monica is closer to Torrance than Rialto, but you either have to drive the dreaded 405 Freeway or Sepulveda Blvd to get there.

If taking Sepulveda, you can branch off onto Lincoln Blvd just north of LAX

Or take Sepulveda to Jefferson, then west to Centinela, then north to Pico.

 

thanks Bill