On the heater core you only tested for flow and if it had a LARGE leak.
Remember the cooling system is under pressure of what ever the radiator cap is rated for.
So to test it you need to put it under the same PSI the cap is rated for.
If it was removed you could put air to it, put it under water and look for bubbles.
Dave ----

 

Thanks Dave. I hadn't thought about the pressure, so I guess I still don't know if the heater core is solid. Maybe I should try the test again and block the exit?

 

..........

 

Well, maybe that's what "should" be in the dash, but that's not what this truck has. Maybe the problem is partly because this is a Custom Cab with a non-custom cab dash? I have the round dash.

There are two indicators at the bottom of the dash, right and left turn. I have a separate red light flashing for emergency, which works fine. And my high beam light at the top of the dash works also.

And I'm fairly certain the emergency flasher was relocated to the upper right side of the dash when the two extra switches were installed (which aren't connected to anything) And that might explain why those two switches are so close together if the holes were originally for the emergency switch and light.

I'm going to try to post a video I took of the lights in operation. But I haven't been able to post a video on FTE in years, so wish me luck.

 

My bad. I tried to delete my post but apparently was unsuccessful. I looked back at some of your earlier photos and realized that your dash is different than mine.

 

Really exciting, huh? Well, it is for me as I have never driven the truck on days when rain was predicted. Very glad the only thing making them inop was a disconnected switch.

I ordered some ANCO wipers for $5.08 each with free shipping on Amazon. They arrived about an hour ago. I wanted to keep the original stainless wiper arms, so I disassembled the new ones and fitted the bladed to the originals. They fit just a little loosely, so I tightened up the holding clamps and they work just fine.



The Shop Manual says to put the blades down at the bottom of the windshield when reinstalling them. I found that lets them "slap" at the lowest part of the sweep, so I readjusted them so they don't slap.

Hey, every little thing is progress, right?

 

Another really exciting announcement?

Well, it's exciting for me. The 2 amp fuses arrived early today so I put one in the fuse box, which has been empty since I got the truck. It didn't work.

I got out my slow blow needle nose pliers and shorted the fuse holder again... it still didn't work. I scraped the contacts on the fuse holder to remove any corrosion (which I couldn't see) and that appears to have fixed it.

I don't know how you guys can read all this without jumping up and down.

 

Joe,
Your '65 F250 is very nice! You are to be commended for your patience with the wiring challenges you've been wrestling with, and winning!

Please tell me you don't plan on driving that beauty in the snow & salt?

Since it appears you are not attempting to take your truck back to OE status, and are willing to accept non-65 parts, might I suggest you add to your 'to do' list, to consider swapping out the single reservoir master brake cylinder for a later model 2-pot master brake cylinder. By doing so will provide you with a much improved safety factor - if you have a brake line blow out, you may still have two wheels with brakes rather than ZERO wheels with brakes!

BarnieTrk

 

Thanks Barnie. No, I don't plan to drive it in the snow and ice. I will just be happy to be able to clear the windshield if it happens to start raining while I'm out. And the heater will be a nice addition since it does get colder here in VA than we were used to in SoCal.

As far as the brakes go, I have considered upgrading to a dual reservoir master cylinder. My son did that on his Bronco, and it wasn't a huge task. I worked on a friend's 64 1/2 Mustang and added the dual m/c when I put the front disk brake kit on it. I got pretty good at bending brake lines to fit.
And I'm sure the dual cylinder is safer, though I know of no one who ever had a problem with the single. I'll probably hear a lot of stories now that I've said that.

 

Joe,
You wouldn't happen to know what brand of slider back window is in your Slick? It looks very nice..... most I've seen have a shiny, aluminum border, whereas the one in your truck looks to be black plastic?

BarnieTrk

 

It is black, with a metal frame and some plastic around the windows. I have no idea what brand it is. I too like the way it looks, but since you asked, I checked it for a brand marking and it has none. While I was looking for the brand, I opened it for the first time. It slides easily and has brush-like material to seal the glass panes.

 

I received the heater hose elbow late yesterday from NPD. I think it was expensive, but it works. If I had more things in the order, the shipping would not have been so painful. But I needed the part to get the heater working, and so there it is...

And in the process of making this work again, I think I understand the reasons the PO took out the heater hoses.

A. The truck was in CA so it didn't really need a heater? Or, that's the choice you make after you screw up.

B. The PO installed a set of gauges for the temp, voltage and oil pressure (which I like having). BUT, the sending unit for the water temp gauge does not have NPT threads (I think it's a flare) to go into the NPT threads in the intake manifold where the original temp sender is located. So, he used an adapter to screw the sensor into which has 3/4" threads going into the manifold... so the heater hose port was where he screwed it in. Or, maybe that adapter comes with the gauge package when you get it... I don't know.

Of course, not knowing this, I removed the old sender and tried to put the "new" one where the original was. It would not tighten. . So, I replaced the original sending unit and installed the new elbow where it's supposed to go. Then, I ran the hoses (using the clamp I made), refilled the radiator and checked everything for leaks. No leaks and good heat and defrost, after the cold blooded 352 warmed up.

Now, I have to find a correct adapter for the "new" temp gauge sender.



One of these days, I'm going to reroute that red wire wrapped around the harness and make it look right. I guess the PO didn't have a pair of dikes to cut it to length.

 

NICE! - BarnieTrk

 

The teflon tape on the temp sender is a bad idea. A good ground is required.
Eric

 

Thanks for that bit of info. I didn't realize it needed a ground through the threads. It's coming off again anyway when I get the adapter to install the one for the "new" gauge. I'll use pipe dope only then. Will it get a ground through the dope?

The original temp gauge does not work, and I just put that sender back in to plug up the hole.


EDIT: After you sent this, I looked at the wiring diagram, which shows the sender needs a ground. Thanks again.

SECOND EDIT: I checked the sensor body with my meter, and it is grounded. The threads must have contact through the tape.