no ho2s swithing (running lean)
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 166
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From: Lewisville U.S.
no ho2s swithing (running lean)
my check engine light codes tell me that no ho2s switching (running lean) how do i check this and/or fix this problem. i have a 90 bronco with a 351 please help
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 750
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From: Buena Vista
no ho2s swithing (running lean)
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Jan-02 AT 09:14 PM (EST)]What is the code you are getting, the number?
Need some more info, have you done any mods to it lately?
What have you done in general, have you changed any sensors yet?
Need some more info, have you done any mods to it lately?
What have you done in general, have you changed any sensors yet?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 166
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From: Lewisville U.S.
no ho2s swithing (running lean)
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-Jan-02 AT 04:10 PM (EST)]no mods made recently, have changed the oxygen sensor, i am getting continuos code 41 and 65, and i am getting engine running code 42 and 65, any help would be greatly appreciated
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 750
Likes: 2
From: Buena Vista
no ho2s swithing (running lean)
Has it been running rough, or loss of power?
Is your gas mileage bad?
Does the check engine light stay on or blink while driving.
It sounds like you have a fuel system problem, the fuel regular may be the culprit.
Have you reset the codes? Do this, and run the codes again, see if they still are there.
If the previous codes are still present, check the fuel pressure, see if they’re in specs.
It’s the only thing I can come up with, can any one come up with something else?
This side shows codes, and helps you with the codes.
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/2digit.html
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
Is your gas mileage bad?
Does the check engine light stay on or blink while driving.
It sounds like you have a fuel system problem, the fuel regular may be the culprit.
Have you reset the codes? Do this, and run the codes again, see if they still are there.
If the previous codes are still present, check the fuel pressure, see if they’re in specs.
It’s the only thing I can come up with, can any one come up with something else?
This side shows codes, and helps you with the codes.
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/2digit.html
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 166
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From: Lewisville U.S.
no ho2s swithing (running lean)
yes the truck idles rough, the gas mileage is around 4 or 5, yes there is a loss of power, check engine light comes on after about 10 minutes of driving the truck and stays on, yes i have reset the codes and they still come back, how do i check the fuel pressure?
also i made a mistake on the first posting the continous code is running lean,,, but the engine running code says its running rich? does that make any sense at all.
also i made a mistake on the first posting the continous code is running lean,,, but the engine running code says its running rich? does that make any sense at all.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 750
Likes: 2
From: Buena Vista
no ho2s swithing (running lean)
Well I think you can rent a fuel pressure gauge, from most auto parts stores.
Hook the gauge into the Schrader valve on top of the fuel rail.
Have someone start the engine, and observe the readings, leave it run for a while, or till the engine light goes on, shut the engine off, while still observing the gauge.
The pressure I think should be anywhere between 25 and 35 psi.
If you have a high reading it is the fuel regular, it pushes excess fuel into your engine causing the bad gas mileage and lack of power.
I had this same problem on my truck, my pressure was about 90psi, and obviously it was the fuel regulator.
Let us know what the readings were.
BTW does the exhaust smell rich, or does black smoke come out once and a while?
The computer is located behind the driver’s side kick panel, this is where you can access it.
Under the engine compartment on the firewall on the lower drivers side you will see a bunch of wires going into a plastic rectangle, this is plugged into the computer.
Hook the gauge into the Schrader valve on top of the fuel rail.
Have someone start the engine, and observe the readings, leave it run for a while, or till the engine light goes on, shut the engine off, while still observing the gauge.
The pressure I think should be anywhere between 25 and 35 psi.
If you have a high reading it is the fuel regular, it pushes excess fuel into your engine causing the bad gas mileage and lack of power.
I had this same problem on my truck, my pressure was about 90psi, and obviously it was the fuel regulator.
Let us know what the readings were.
BTW does the exhaust smell rich, or does black smoke come out once and a while?
The computer is located behind the driver’s side kick panel, this is where you can access it.
Under the engine compartment on the firewall on the lower drivers side you will see a bunch of wires going into a plastic rectangle, this is plugged into the computer.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 750
Likes: 2
From: Buena Vista
no ho2s swithing (running lean)
>The computer is located behind the driver’s side kick panel,
>this is where you can access it. Under the engine
>compartment on the firewall on the lower
>drivers side you will see a bunch of wires going into a
>plastic rectangle, this is plugged into the computer.
My wording made it sound like you can access the computer from under the hood, but you can only access it from behind the kick panel. Sorry
>this is where you can access it. Under the engine
>compartment on the firewall on the lower
>drivers side you will see a bunch of wires going into a
>plastic rectangle, this is plugged into the computer.
My wording made it sound like you can access the computer from under the hood, but you can only access it from behind the kick panel. Sorry
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 166
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From: Lewisville U.S.
no ho2s swithing (running lean)
i really appreciate all of your help, and i will try to find a fuel pressure guage tomorrow and check my fuel pressure then i will let you know what i find out
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 750
Likes: 2
From: Buena Vista
no ho2s swithing (running lean)
It has one regulator, on the back of the engine next to the intake.
Mine was $21 bucks at advanced auto, you could just change the regulator, instead of buying a pressure gauge, being a gauge is more than a regulator.
I thought you might be able to rent one, but have never rented one myself. If you want to buy a gauge look around for the best price.
Here is a picture of a regulator.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=910&.jpg
Mine was $21 bucks at advanced auto, you could just change the regulator, instead of buying a pressure gauge, being a gauge is more than a regulator.
I thought you might be able to rent one, but have never rented one myself. If you want to buy a gauge look around for the best price.
Here is a picture of a regulator.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=910&.jpg
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 750
Likes: 2
From: Buena Vista
no ho2s swithing (running lean)
There should be only one fuel regulator, the fuel rail is one piece, and the one fuel regulator is connected to it. On the right side behind and to the left of the coil is where it’s located.
Is this other device attached to the fuel rail?
I assume it is not attached, my manual does not say anything about two regulars.
To replace the regulator follow these steps:
1) Relive fuel system pressure, or leave it sit for a few hours.
2) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top of the regulator.
3) Remove the three Allen screws from the bottom of the regulator base.
4) Pull the regulator strait up from the fuel rail, it should come right off, but may take some finesse
5) Install the new regulator, lubricate the new o-rings with clean motor oil.
5) Make sure to use the new gasket; it should be supplied with the new regulator.
6) Install the 3 Allen screws and firmly tighten them.
7) Connect the vacuum line.
A note: one of the Allen screws may be hidden by a fuel line, do NOT bend the line, you may use a pliers to break the Allen screw loose, than take it out with your fingers.
The whole project should take about a 1 hour for you to do.
Is this other device attached to the fuel rail?
I assume it is not attached, my manual does not say anything about two regulars.
To replace the regulator follow these steps:
1) Relive fuel system pressure, or leave it sit for a few hours.
2) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top of the regulator.
3) Remove the three Allen screws from the bottom of the regulator base.
4) Pull the regulator strait up from the fuel rail, it should come right off, but may take some finesse
5) Install the new regulator, lubricate the new o-rings with clean motor oil.
5) Make sure to use the new gasket; it should be supplied with the new regulator.
6) Install the 3 Allen screws and firmly tighten them.
7) Connect the vacuum line.
A note: one of the Allen screws may be hidden by a fuel line, do NOT bend the line, you may use a pliers to break the Allen screw loose, than take it out with your fingers.
The whole project should take about a 1 hour for you to do.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Lewisville U.S.
no ho2s swithing (running lean)
just wanted to say thanks for all your help and time, i replaced the fuel regulator last night and the truck seems to be running fine. thanks again for all the help