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Im hoping someone can point me to a wiring diagram for a 66' F100.
I have no front right hazard light, test light confirmed at the plug.
I also had no brake lights, switch was good (ohm meter confirmed) so I ran a temporary fused Hot wire to make it legal, OE wire does nothing and has no power.
I have no turn signals, and test light cannot confirm a ignition hot wire to power these. I was told turn signal switch powers brake switch, but having no ignition power concerns me. I suspect ignition switch, but truck starts and runs just fine.
I have tried to trace wires around, but PO or original owner added about a billion scotch locks and powered many different things. They had a radio, CB radio, and a bunch of other nonsense that isnt there any more and I ripped out the excess they forgot to take out when those items they had left.
Reason I found this out, is I added gauges for my truck to check on the 351 swap, and I could not find a hot wire to save my life and Ive been doing cars for years. So a little help would be appreciated since google cant tell me the right diagram unless other years work. Original wiring is all good except for the rear harness for tails and stuff, and Ill redo all that, but I ran a switch and some temporary saves to get the truck legal.
Hey Bob, hows thing there in Cumming? Moved from there in 06. Gotta lot of hot rod buddies down there....haven't been in several years..guess I need to plan a road trip south...
Probly just a repeat of what U have already confirmed: found isolating the individual harnesses work best for me; disconnected truck battery then used a flashlight sized 6 volt battery, along with alligator clips, disconnected taillight harness, ran clips from appropriate side of small battery to individual taillight wires to verify if the circuit worked; if faulty, suggest include removing bulb and check condition of the bulb socket and contact points. Same with circuit from brake sending unit to the 5-6 pin connector at the steering column. With a helper process should only take less than 1/2 hour, I was the helper so it took close to an hour. Hopefully the problem has been resolved and do not have to remove the steering wheel, which would only take less than 5 min's with the correct steering wheel puller. I followed the diagram 'yankbs' posted. Then there's the turn, and stop light fuse??
Jacob, I hope this helps. If not, I have several other pages available. Bob
Thanks Bob. I didnt know you were in cumming. **** I live in Buford man.
Originally Posted by daveengelson
Probly just a repeat of what U have already confirmed: found isolating the individual harnesses work best for me; disconnected truck battery then used a flashlight sized 6 volt battery, along with alligator clips, disconnected taillight harness, ran clips from appropriate side of small battery to individual taillight wires to verify if the circuit worked; if faulty, suggest include removing bulb and check condition of the bulb socket and contact points. Same with circuit from brake sending unit to the 5-6 pin connector at the steering column. With a helper process should only take less than 1/2 hour, I was the helper so it took close to an hour. Hopefully the problem has been resolved and do not have to remove the steering wheel, which would only take less than 5 min's with the correct steering wheel puller. I followed the diagram 'yankbs' posted. Then there's the turn, and stop light fuse??
Yeah I figured I just wanted to confirm. I work on new cars all day and have to get back into my mindset of "its an older car". I know the socket is good, I just need to trace the wires on the diagram now and see about a break using my ohm meter and such. This is much more fun than a computer telling me whats wrong.
[QUOTE=Big_Texxan;16553384]Thanks Bob. I didnt know you were in cumming. **** I live in Buford man.
I know we're less than 10 miles apart. I could have brought copies over to you if you wanted.. The bed looks good, but was a little worried when the email notification said you had wood. Then I remembered you talking about putting the flooring in the bed.
It looks like you're ready to head to Texas, do you have a time frame set yet?
Thanks Bob. I didnt know you were in cumming. **** I live in Buford man.
I know we're less than 10 miles apart. I could have brought copies over to you if you wanted.. The bed looks good, but was a little worried when the email notification said you had wood. Then I remembered you talking about putting the flooring in the bed.
It looks like you're ready to head to Texas, do you have a time frame set yet?
HAHAHAH that was the point of the title!
I leave on Friday. Finish the body of the Ford tomorrow for assembly and travel. Pack, and pick up the truck and trailer Thursday and load it down
Keep in mind that there is no ground wire for the tailights. The ground is completed by contact with the tailight to the body. Make sure the surfaces are clean. I used some bulb grease at the contact point.
Keep in mind that there is no ground wire for the tailights. The ground is completed by contact with the tailight to the body. Make sure the surfaces are clean. I used some bulb grease at the contact point.
Its not the prettiest having the wires just there, but I already went ahead and added a trailer wiring harness, so i could run these lights temporarily.
Question since you guys are active, I have LEDs in the front, and I will be running LEDs in the rear, along with everything inside the truck being LED as well. I could not find any specific topic about this, but what are the chances of everything operating normally?