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Hi everyone, I have a 95 Winnebago Adventurer with a blown ford 460 engine. Two questions- 1- will any ford 460 built in the same era 1992-1997 directly mount into my rv?
2- If so, do I need to change the cam in the replacement motor to an RV cam if the used 460 motor comes out of something like an F250 pickup truck? Thank you for all help and advice.
Question 1 answer yes. If the motor home is EFI. Question 2 Answer The cam will be fine the 460 was used only in the bigger trucks during that time frame, made to pull.
Darn.
Here I sit, checkin the threads for updates, and see the headline 'Blown 460.' I checked it out hopin to see a fire breathin', air hoggin', hood cut-out turbo/nitrus/steroid induced picture/video! Silly me! Please continue, I'm ok.
A later model 460 with this cam: 204 intake/214 exhaust @ 0.50 107 in lobe center and 110 ex lobe center, lift 490/516 will produce the power you'll need.
Can the existing motor be rebuilt? (I've blown up more 460s than I can count and most were rebuildable).
HrdDrv- sorry for the confusion, I wish that were the case.
I don't know if I can rebuild the one that I have. It blew up on me on the freeway and left a large puddle of oil/water sludge on the shoulder. After I pull it I'll find out. I found a used one with 135k miles on it that I'm thinking of installing to get me back on the road. It's coming out of 97 F250. I'm 1600 miles from home so this an emergency get me back on the road ASAP fix.
Thanks for the other responses to my questions. Hoping to not run into to many issues getting this back on the road.
HrdDrv- sorry for the confusion, I wish that were the case.
I don't know if I can rebuild the one that I have. It blew up on me on the freeway and left a large puddle of oil/water sludge on the shoulder. After I pull it I'll find out. I found a used one with 135k miles on it that I'm thinking of installing to get me back on the road. It's coming out of 97 F250. I'm 1600 miles from home so this an emergency get me back on the road ASAP fix.
Thanks for the other responses to my questions. Hoping to not run into to many issues getting this back on the road.
If you're going to swap, do yourself a favor and go all nee major seals, rear main, timing cover, head gaskets, valve covers, lower intakee, etc. The engine is 20 years old, if it's out of the vehicle, might as well make sure it's sealed up right.
There is no reason to change the headgasket or intake gaskets, or even the timing cover. The only seals I would consider changing would be the front and rear main seals.
There is no reason to change the headgasket or intake gaskets, or even the timing cover. The only seals I would consider changing would be the front and rear main seals.
I would tend to agree, BUT I just got done changing the timing cover seal on the front of my 1990 460. Why? The paper gasket failed on the water pump passage between the timing cover and the block. Then I broke three bolts off removing the water pump and the timing cover - coolant had leaked into the bolt holes and corroded the holes so full of rust that the bolts couldn't even turn. It took an entire weekend to get that stupid cover off and the bolts out.
There are two bolts that go into the engine with through holes into the crankcase that need to be sealed, and one that goes into the coolant passage that absolutely must have its threads sealed. If somebody doesn't do this when the water pump is changed, you could be in for problems later.
AND don't forget the block core plugs! A few of those are flat out not accessible when the engine is installed.
I would tend to agree, BUT I just got done changing the timing cover seal on the front of my 1990 460. Why? The paper gasket failed on the water pump passage between the timing cover and the block. Then I broke three bolts off removing the water pump and the timing cover - coolant had leaked into the bolt holes and corroded the holes so full of rust that the bolts couldn't even turn. It took an entire weekend to get that stupid cover off and the bolts out.
There are two bolts that go into the engine with through holes into the crankcase that need to be sealed, and one that goes into the coolant passage that absolutely must have its threads sealed. If somebody doesn't do this when the water pump is changed, you could be in for problems later.
AND don't forget the block core plugs! A few of those are flat out not accessible when the engine is installed.
Exactly why I recommend changing those items when the engine is out.
I wonder if you guys noticed the part where he's 1600 miles from home. If the one he's putting in is a solid runner, I say leave it alone until he gets home.
I wonder if you guys noticed the part where he's 1600 miles from home. If the one he's putting in is a solid runner, I say leave it alone until he gets home.
That part I did not notice. Still, is he doing the work on the road himself or is a shop? At the least, front and rear seals and timing gaskets, minimal time involved with the engine out and good precaution.
Also, is it used from a private party, or from a shop that will give you one of those 12 month unlimited miles warranty on a used engine? They usually require a list of things replaced to keep the warranty.
1600 miles from home. If it ran fine when it was pulled out then just put it in ...too much crap can and will go wrong when you start ripping into the replacement ..just install and go home ...