Why is my 239 Y-block dying?
#47
#48
Looking at pictures from my rebuild years ago, the power valve doesn't look that hot.
#49
#50
Did the fuel show up in the chamber underneath the PV? (or on the workbench) Are you sure it didn't just evaporate? Was there a gasket on the PV?
Daytona Parts, http://www.daytonaparts.com/, has the correct PV's for 94's. (Be sure NOT to tell him it's a '55 or he'll assume you have a 2110, which use a slightly different PV). Stock PV is a #7.5, but most people prefer a 6.5, for better gas mileage. Be sure to get a gasket with it.
Daytona Parts, http://www.daytonaparts.com/, has the correct PV's for 94's. (Be sure NOT to tell him it's a '55 or he'll assume you have a 2110, which use a slightly different PV). Stock PV is a #7.5, but most people prefer a 6.5, for better gas mileage. Be sure to get a gasket with it.
#51
On the Datona parts web site, they don't specifically mention the 7RT
I think this is the proper kit??:
MAKE: FORD TRUCK
YEARS: 34-57
MODEL: 239, 272 V8
TYPE: 2100-D, AA-1, "94" ETC 2BBL
NUMBER:
MANUF: HOLLEY
KIT #: 601
It comes with a power valve. The picture looks to show two.
As for the vacuum covered with duct tape. I got some vacuum caps and put that on. When I pulled the duct tape, I see that I put a rivet head in the hole to help with the seal.
I seem to be getting distracted with the carb, but it's all good stuff.
#52
Well I'll be.
I went out to the garage knowing I saved the old rebuilt kit. I bought it from Napa in 2002 which is probably when I rebuilt the carb. Echlin 2-5612
It has two power valves in it. I don't know why I didn't replace it. But, that's good news. I will use one of those and clean up everything and put it back together.
Is either preferred? The one without the visible spring doesn't move when I press down on the top.
I went out to the garage knowing I saved the old rebuilt kit. I bought it from Napa in 2002 which is probably when I rebuilt the carb. Echlin 2-5612
It has two power valves in it. I don't know why I didn't replace it. But, that's good news. I will use one of those and clean up everything and put it back together.
Is either preferred? The one without the visible spring doesn't move when I press down on the top.
#54
Holley calls the PV an "economizer", the other is the spark control valve for the 2110-type carbs. The radius on the PV may prevent it seating properly; test it just like the old one, with a gasket. Then put the throttle section onto the bowl section, with no gasket between them, and make sure the head of the PV isn't hitting on the cavity below it.
#55
I will play with this more this evening.
I did a little last night but I want to try more stuff before reporting what I find.
Another question, how do I unblock the venturi tubes (Accelerater Pump discharge Nozzle) is what others call it.
It looks like I can by a new one for $10, but I would like to clear this one out if possible.
I did a little last night but I want to try more stuff before reporting what I find.
Another question, how do I unblock the venturi tubes (Accelerater Pump discharge Nozzle) is what others call it.
It looks like I can by a new one for $10, but I would like to clear this one out if possible.
#56
#59
Holley calls the PV an "economizer", the other is the spark control valve for the 2110-type carbs. The radius on the PV may prevent it seating properly; test it just like the old one, with a gasket. Then put the throttle section onto the bowl section, with no gasket between them, and make sure the head of the PV isn't hitting on the cavity below it.
#60
Hey, I seem to be one constant brain fart. It makes me feel good when you smart folk miss something on occasion.
I put both power valves in and filled the carb with gas with the base removed and they both leaked. I might be doing something wrong though. Does the base provide an extra seal?
I put both power valves in and filled the carb with gas with the base removed and they both leaked. I might be doing something wrong though. Does the base provide an extra seal?