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I'm getting ready to paint (actually re-paint) my truck. I would like to remove the F-O-R-D letters. My letters are reproduction, and I'm having trouble figuring out how to get them off. The fastners seems like a one time only kind of deal. I remember they were hard to put on. Is there a special tool or something for taking them off? Thanks.
Thanks Ross. I was hoping for something magic. My letters are a little loose too. I can see where they are already starting to wear through the paint due to the slight movement allowed by the loose fitting attachment. I'll give a small pliers a try. When I was a little kid, I used to have a specialized pliers that I think would be perfect. It was like a diagonals with the jaws shifted 90 degrees. Someone told me it was maybe used for shoeing horses. I never used it, but it was part of my little tool collection.
Can you get a fine scratch awl or any very sharp pointed tool under one edge of the speed nut or speed clip? Sure, it may destroy it but they should be readily available. When you install the letters, place some body sealer or caulk around the stud and onto the back surface of the letters to keep them tight.
Thanks. Good tip on using caulk or body sealer when installing your letters. My first attempt at painting my truck was made just last summer, and I can already see that my "vibrating" letters are causing a problem.
Can you get a fine scratch awl or any very sharp pointed tool under one edge of the speed nut or speed clip? Sure, it may destroy it but they should be readily available. When you install the letters, place some body sealer or caulk around the stud and onto the back surface of the letters to keep them tight.
Good idea. I was thinking about putting a small piece of thin rubber like a piece of an inner tube behind the letter to draw it tight.
In the end, there was just no way the letter fasteners were coming off without removing the hood latch panel. Even with the panel removed, it was still a struggle.
With the letters removed, I'm one step closer to being able to paint!
Those are different fasteners than I got with mine. Mine are thicker steel and have two "teeth" that really dig into the pot metal. Dremel is the way to go!
I think if I ever have to take mine off, I'm going to glue them on with urethane.
Interesting that different fasteners are sometimes used. My letter set came from Classic Haulers--possibly purchased in 2015. My fasteners have maybe had a half dozen "teeth" and there is no way there were going to come off without a major fight.
Ross, would you suggest using just a glue to re-attach the letters? I have some 3M 5000 marine adhesive that I use on the boats I'm restoring. It has an extremely strong bond but always remains somewhat flexible. You can sand and paint it after it has cured for a week or so--it's really a handy product.
I was thinking of something more like urethane caulk. I don't think there's a lot of force trying to make them come off. Urethane doesn't have the problems that silicone caulks do, as far as corrosion. It would prevent the rattling around for sure.
Pete, as I recall, mine have an unthreaded hole in the middle of the post. Did yours include some kind of cup-shaped washer for the screw to tighten against? The posts stick stick thru the sheet metal too far for a flat washer to contact the panel.
Pete, as I recall, mine have an unthreaded hole in the middle of the post. Did yours include some kind of cup-shaped washer for the screw to tighten against? The posts stick stick thru the sheet metal too far for a flat washer to contact the panel.
I used 2 washers with hole large enough to go over the post and one with a small hole on each held in place by short hex headed self-threading screw. A cupped washer would work too but couldn't find one.
Ross, 3M 5200 marine adhesive is a polyurethane product. It forms a much stronger bond than silicon. It is also more rigid, and unlike silicon, it can be sanded and painted. I'm thinking of using it in the cargo area of my panel truck to seal/fill the large gap that exists there between the floor and the body.
Jim,
3M 5200 is for something that you never want to take apart. If you can ever visualize needing to take it apart use 3M 4200 not 5200. (I play a lot with boats).
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