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I remember back in the early days, when these trucks were under warranty, that the dealership used to tell if a tuner was being used by pulling the heads and see if there's a star pattern on the tops of the pistons. If there was, they would use that to deny warranty work. I suppose that would be way too extensive of a test for someone purchasing a truck, but thought I'd throw it out there.
I remember back in the early days, when these trucks were under warranty, that the dealership used to tell if a tuner was being used by pulling the heads and see if there's a star pattern on the tops of the pistons. If there was, they would use that to deny warranty work. I suppose that would be way too extensive of a test for someone purchasing a truck, but thought I'd throw it out there.
Then come to find out, some trucks were doing that stock with the older strategies that were fueling more. I've seen people that's happened to.
In AZ we have some pretty long steep climbs. Both Sunset Point, going to Flagstaff and Mt. Ord, going to Payson are guaranteed to give a truck a serious workout.
Summer time, loaded, chugging up to Flagstaff is where my HG's popped. The grade was too long for stock bolts. Tried to keep the Temps within reason running a heavy tow tune thinking that was better than no tune at all under the circumstances, the bolts just can't do the job.
Yes I do run the 8k tune all the time. I'm towing very comparable weight as you are when loaded. Actually just got back from a 1600 mile round trip through the Adirondacks. How and I'm running stock bolts with 165,000+ miles.
I run with an eye on the boost and EGT gauges any time pulling grade. If EGTs get to 1250°F I back off the skinny pedal until they start coming down. No issues.
That SLR tune you can have it. It runs like a raped ape but EGTs unloaded go over 1500°F. That's just looking for trouble IMHO.
I also think there are a lot of guys running around with blown HG's and just don't know it, yet.
We monitor all other temp and psi perimeters, but until a coolant psi gauge is in-line, like myself, most are just driving in denial.
I also think there are a lot of guys running around with blown HG's and just don't know it, yet.
We monitor all other temp and psi perimeters, but until a coolant psi gauge is in-line, like myself, most are just driving in denial.
I too have an inline coolant pressure gauge. But really, the truck will let you know if you pop a head gasket. It will burst past the 16psi cap on the degas bottle or it will start consuming coolant. Just one less gauge that's needed. I'm going to be removing mine simply because it's the worst looking gauge i have
I'm not saying to always have one in-line, but to be informed of an unwanted, unknown, over psi condition of a known problem, to periodically use one as a test meter.
I'm not saying to always have one in-line, but to be informed of an unwanted, unknown, over psi condition of a known problem, to periodically use one as a test meter.
An over-psi condition will always show itself through the cap, is what i'm saying. The gauge cannot show you an issue until it's already an issue
An over-psi condition will always show itself through the cap, is what i'm saying....
Only if the coolant level is high enough to vent out around it.
Remember that Ford changed their mind regarding the degas bottle's "full" mark, to have owners fill to the "min" mark, then again changed their mind so now it's supposed to be 5/8" below the "min" mark as "FULL".
Why? so an owner won't see the tell tale signs and experience white residue around the cap all in an attempt to mainly; reduce warranty claims, which in turn gives the owner a false sense of security that there's nothing wrong.
They're in the business of selling this product not warranty fixing it.
Only if the coolant level is high enough to vent out around it.
Remember that Ford changed their mind regarding the degas bottle's "full" mark, to have owners fill to the "min" mark, then again changed their mind so now it's supposed to be 5/8" below the "min" mark as "FULL".
Why? so an owner won't see the tell tale signs and experience white residue around the cap all in an attempt to mainly; reduce warranty claims, which in turn gives the owner a false sense of security that there's nothing wrong.
They're in the business of selling this product not warranty fixing it.
Okay, So the Full mark is now suppose to be 5/8" below the raised line on the degas bottle???
I also think there are a lot of guys running around with blown HG's and just don't know it, yet.
We monitor all other temp and psi perimeters, but until a coolant psi gauge is in-line, like myself, most are just driving in denial.
Possibly. What I did was disassemble an old cap and epoxied a brass fitting in the top. I screwed in a whip and a gauge on the end of it. At every service it gets checked.
Originally Posted by AGE mechanic
Okay, So the Full mark is now suppose to be 5/8" below the raised line on the degas bottle???
Yes. I put a reference cold fill mark on my degas. With expansion @ max coolant temp towing it comes up to the original fill. Once I stop and let it idle down to 190° the level sits in between. This works for me.
5/8" below the "minimum" raised mark on the degas bottle.
To add to this, since the coolant is pressurized, the level "looks" lower when lifting the hood for inspection. It's not until the cap is relieved that the level rises to the new "full" mark.
So, any venting of coolant (ie; white residue) is mostly non existent when following this recommendation from Ford . This masks HG failure. It also brings up topics like "where's my coolant going, it seems to just disappear!" Actually I believe it's more like the H2O that's been pressure cooked out the cap while driving.
I know this doesn't have anything to do with this thread of "towing while tuned" but you all know how threads get
Only if the coolant level is high enough to vent out around it.
Remember that Ford changed their mind regarding the degas bottle's "full" mark, to have owners fill to the "min" mark, then again changed their mind so now it's supposed to be 5/8" below the "min" mark as "FULL".
Why? so an owner won't see the tell tale signs and experience white residue around the cap all in an attempt to mainly; reduce warranty claims, which in turn gives the owner a false sense of security that there's nothing wrong.
They're in the business of selling this product not warranty fixing it.
When the head gasket goes it doesn't matter if you run at the minimum level or not, it's going to push coolant. You will also lose heat at idle and then you won't have heat until you put a load on the truck.
Hey all, I have an '03 2WD Excursion. I have an SCT tuner with Tow 55 and Tow 65 tunes (as well as a performance tune). I recently upgraded the studs (OUCH) when she started 'pushing coolant'. She has EGR delete. I've also added AirLift air bags to the back.
Now to the question.
With all of this: tuner, bolts, EGR del, air bags, 260A alt... can I tow more than the listed 11k?
I'm looking at a slightly bigger toy hauler but I'd be moving from ~6500 dry weight to ~9000 dry.
In my current config with all my stuff (race car, etc.) and full of fluids (including 100 gallons of water) I was just under 19k total and the Excursion is rated at 20k GCWR.
I'd be looking at more like 22k total with the new trailer.
Thoughts?
TIA!
Last edited by Phantom_9192; Sep 1, 2016 at 05:13 PM.
Reason: added alternator
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