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I have a 90 f250 with a 302 and just last week it was running fine starting fine and charging fine. Now my dash lights wont come on except for the seat belt light sometimes. The starter wont engage and the fuel pump wont work! I turn the key and... nothing it's quite... to quite. I hear nothing working or going on when I try to start I need help.
No, no and I work in fields and the other day before it did this It was raining hard and I had to push the truck harder than I have in a while if that's what you mean by desturbed. I put a 12v 225amp jump box to the battery and still nothing at all.
Check both battery cable connections at the battery and for the negative side check the connection at the block. Take a close look at the cables to verify there is no corrosion happening under the insulation.
The post are corrosion free. I need to check the block ground like you suggested and I'll get back to y'all.
Highly suggest you pull off the connections at the battery and clean them even if they "look" clean.
Everything you describe is a good sign you have a basic supply/ground problem. Looking at connections in a high current circuit is risky to your wallet thickness.
I don't think it's the battery or wires. I'm starting to think it might be the solenoid even though I just replaced it with a spare I had laying around in the shop. From what I was told it had been through 1 with its previous owner then one with me and now maybe 2.
I don't think it's the battery or wires. I'm starting to think it might be the solenoid even though I just replaced it with a spare I had laying around in the shop. From what I was told it had been through 1 with its previous owner then one with me and now maybe 2.
Solenoid has nothing to do with dash lights not working.
Hate to beat a dead horse here but, as the others have said, pull both battery terminals and clean/sand them down. Even the slightest bit of corrosion around the terminals will cause a "no start" problem.
While you have the wires disconnected, check them for resistance/continuity. Sometimes the wires will corrode in the middle, not at the ends, making it difficult to diagnose.
I once replaced a battery, and it worked great for 2 days. Then one night I when I tried to start the car, I got the death click; solenoid clicking, but lights dim, and no start. Looked just like a dead battery. Tried getting a jump, but the clamps wouldn't bite hard enough to make a good contact. Eventually figured out that the cable terminals were not making good contact with the battery posts. Did a thorough clean up of both, and car started right up. The cable terminals had accumulated acid leaked from the old battery, which corroded its contact with the new posts in two days to disrupt conductivity.
The other condition described is when the acid gets under the cable insulation and eats away at the copper wires. You can usually see the damaged insulation from that.
The solenoid is easy enough to test. I've also seen terminals fail on that end. Either corrosion develops between the cable lugs, or the stud on the solenoid loosens up, and you have a hard time tightening the nut onto the lugs.
Maybe you've already checked those, but they are electrical gremlins I've had to deal with.
Thank you. I'm not getting any clicking like a dead battery would do and I can't see nothing that pops out at me with the wires so I'm just really lost here. I am going to go back over it as soon as I get home though, don't want them beating a dead horse for no reason.
I just don't think it's smart to strip the coating on my wires. But if you say so.
I never said to strip the wire's insulation....just check the resistance and/or continuity end to end of the battery cables. Or pull 'em off and check if they're flexible all the way. A continuity or resistance check is easier.
I love beating a dead horse....makes the meat more tender on the BBQ
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